2V Swap/1.6 rockers

Ronbo

Famous Member
Is this doable? Used the hydraulic lifters with adjustable rocker pushrods. I have three broken lifters and one broken push rod (as far as I know). I have all the pieces, number two exhaust slipped out of the cup followed by the intake (my guess, I wasn't in there with them). Not over-reved, 5K at best. Should I go back to the stock rocker assy. or give it another go? Head was milled, block surfaced. Rockers are adjustable, studs are in question as the head obviously wasn't sealing. Blah, blah, blah! :) Trying to make this the last time I put the thing together. TIA

Ron
 
How much was milled off the heads and how much off the block? The total of both sould be the thickness of shims that would go under the rocker arm shaft stands. This isto correct rocker arm geometry. Small amouts can be removed but more than just truing up the surfaces dont need shimming. .060 off the head would need a .060 shim .020 off the block also and you will need a .080 shim. Think the rear stand is were the oil suppl path for the rocker shaft is and the hole in the shim needs to be larger
 
8) one thing you absolutely MUST DO when going to a higher ratio rocker arm is check for coil bind on the valve springs just like you would when going to a higher lift cam. the very next thing you MUST DO is check the valve to piston clearance . if either one is out of whack, you will break rockers and bend push rods.
 
Howdy Ron and all:

Another detail you need to consider is the cam lift at the valve- lobe lift x rocker arm ratio. AKT stock type hydraulic lifters can compensate for approximately .125" plus or minus in dimensions. So if your mill cuts on the head and block equal less than that amount, (Be sure to add back in additional thickness of the head gasket) no need for rocker arm mounting shaft shims. check it out.

Adios, David
 
Good enough. I must have adjusted them wrong, I'll be more careful this time. Thanks for the replies.

Ron
 
Back
Top