All Small Six '62 Falcon 200: Overheating Diagnosis & Build Options

This relates to all small sixes

falconcritter

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I got a Aluminun Rad for my 69 Falcon when i first got it in 2018 and it sat in the box till 2019 after I was messing around with the grill and dropped a small box end wrench and made a hole . The wife and I always would have too keep an eye on the Temp Gauge before I damaged it in the Florida Heat and Humidity . I had no choice but too install the new rad that had been sitting for over a year in the box . Now it never gets above 170 . I am in Florida …. 90’s and 100’s and feel like temps in the 110’s and it will not get above 170 !! I run a Thermo at 160 degrees and the Aluminum Rad no issues .
 

65coupei6

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I am done with copper/brass. Tried 2 row, 3 row, etc.. Aluminum works great. ACP or Northern. I don't like the looks of the Champion. If you don't like the color then paint it black with Eastwood Radiator black.

I would also flush the block by pulling the plug if you can. Unless the engine has been completely rebuilt.

Here in California I would just run straight water and 2 bottles of LubeGaurd. Works great for me. Even last month in Reno sitting in traffic with 100 degree weather. It got up to 189. Running a 180 tstat.

The biggest improvement was adding a shroud. Make sure the fan is around 1" from the radiator and half way in the shroud.

Then of course I always raise the front end and run the engine without the cap and turn on the heater after a fresh refill of the radiator.

Lastly I use a 16lb. cap since my system can handle the pressure and the higher caps raises the boiling point.
 

Clwoods

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I am done with copper/brass. Tried 2 row, 3 row, etc.. Aluminum works great. ACP or Northern. I don't like the looks of the Champion. If you don't like the color then paint it black with Eastwood Radiator black.

I would also flush the block by pulling the plug if you can. Unless the engine has been completely rebuilt.

Here in California I would just run straight water and 2 bottles of LubeGaurd. Works great for me. Even last month in Reno sitting in traffic with 100 degree weather. It got up to 189. Running a 180 tstat.

The biggest improvement was adding a shroud. Make sure the fan is around 1" from the radiator and half way in the shroud.

Then of course I always raise the front end and run the engine without the cap and turn on the heater after a fresh refill of the radiator.

Lastly I use a 16lb. cap since my system can handle the pressure and the higher caps raises the boiling point.
I pulled the plugs last week and flushed the block and Hester core. Just got a Scott Drake 3 Row ½in tube copper/brass repro. (don't like the aluminum they are just cheap) . Have a 15lb cap and a 180 T/S shroud should be here tomorrow will mock it all and trim to fit this weekend.

Luckily I hav access to a full shop
 

chad

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"...What am I doin wrong?...?
nuttin:
I'm not sure the problem. If it is hot, not pukin into the over flow, it is not overheating. The vehicle can run too low (below 180) and too hi - boils out of the system (245+). There are abt a doz things U can wrk with to effect running temps. The big one - proper tune.
Here's the areas:

  • leaks in system; air in system
  • correct shroud (fan 1/2 in/1/2 out unless 'flex', that = 3/4 in)
  • coolant - mix, additives, age, cleanliness;
  • water pump - operation, condition; cavitation;
  • heater core - leaks, condition, it’s fan on/off;
  • block - water passages;
  • hoses - collapse, leaks;
  • thermostat - condition, temp rating;
  • radiator (sz, # rows, clean?, construction, materials - I like ol style copper)
  • radiator cap - pressure rating, condition, design;
  • fan (blades, design, clutch)
  • flush system last yr. or 2?
Too cool (below 180*F) can Be a problem too. So what is the actual problem? Is it ur concern the needle rises too much? Or actual over heating? It sounds like everything is OK . A problem would B over heat at 7 - 10 min, over heat in stop'n go. The wind is keepin it cool (U go 50, 70 on freeway), fan is wrkin in traffic to cool...
For more fun graba hand held infrared (big box auto prts store - free; or $8 at Harbor Freight), point it around, C 'top of radiator', follow H2O jacket to "back of motor", measure @ water neck/thermostat, middle of radiator, exit hose/bottom of radiator. Play, don;t worry yet, B a scientist, gather data...
 

wme013

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When you install the new rad, fill it with straight water. Water will cool better. If all is good then back to your normal anti freeze mix. If your in SoCal then
a lower mix will help cooling
Just some basic numbers...
15 lb cap plain water will boil at about 246 degrees
15 lb cap and 33% antifreeze will boil at about 256 degrees
 
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chad

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"...Water will cool better..."
here's one in disagreement...
 

wme013

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Middle of the story "Use a better coolant"
 

wakjob

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Supporter 2020
When you install the new rad, fill it with straight water. Water will cool better. If all is good then back to your normal anti freeze mix. If your in SoCal then
a lower mix will help cooling
Just some basic numbers...
15 lb cap plain water will boil at about 246 degrees
15 lb cap and 33% antifreeze will boil at about 256 degrees

Distilled Water... correct?
 

Clwoods

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So I got the new radiator in it and filled with distilled water. It's about 103° outside today so I thought it'd be a grwat idea to see what the temp does on a short drive. With the AC on the car climbed to 215, so I just drove it w/o AC for a while and the temp didn't drop below 209. At this point the only option is a shroud to see if it will help some. Other than that I think with the load of the AC this motor just can't handle the stress. Maybe the bock is just done for.

Who knows at this point.
 

Soldmy66

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Until you add the shroud, which WILL help (it did on my 57 Chevy Wagon), consider adding a surfactant. I have used Redline Water Wetter in the past.

You may (or may not) know what a surfactant does. If you don't - a surfactant is a chemical that reduces the surface tension of water. Water has high surface tension (that is what creates large bubbles you see in the bottom of a deep pan of water when it boils). If you watch the boiling process, you’ll see that these bubbles remain on the bottom of the pan for a moment before breaking loose and rising to the surface of the water. Those large bubbles are created and held at the bottom by water’s high surface tension. I believe that large bubbles also occur also on the water jacket side of the combustion chamber when your engine is making power. When those bubbles are created, they reduce the heat transfer characteristics of the water and form hot spots. A surfactant reduces the water’s surface tension and allows better heat transfer into the coolant at the head, and it is more efficiently transferred to the radiator cooling tubes. The result should be a lower overall operating temperature.

I saw a reduction in temperature in the 57 Chevy, although I did later replace the electric fans with a flex fan and a shroud.

IIRC, the Water Wetter was about $10, and it won't hurt to try it as an interim step.

I do not recall ever having this issue with my 200 inline six, but my Infinity G35 is known to have an issue "burping" all of the air out of the cooling system (something I recently discovered after the thermostat and lower radiator hose were replaced). For that engine, there is a specific process to rid the system of air. And, if you don't, the temperature rises an astonishing amount. It might be worthwhile (and free) to make sure your car is at an incline with the radiator cap being at the highest point, run and start the car with the cap off and the heater motor on high, then add water if needed and install the cap.

Good luck.

BTW - the most optimal cooling system I ever was in a 55 Chevy Nomad. As a kid in 1969 while camping in Yosemite with my parents, we met our camping neighbor. He used his 55 Nomad to tow a travel trailer. He owned a radiator shop and ran two radiator run in series, one ahead of the core support and another behind it. He said he never had overheating issues. I believed him, my Dad did, too.
 
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wme013

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A shroud is a so-so help on the freeway, but it is a tremendous help in stop and go and idling.
Just make sure you install it correctly. Like the fan is 1/2 into the shroud.
AN OLD,OLD desperate cowboy trick is to remove the thermostat, add a 1/2 cup of Tide soap. Then drive it for a week, drain and flush.
Yes I read that you flushed it earlier, BUT....
You would have to bore the block way more than .030 to ruin it and cause the engine to run hot
 
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sixtseventwo4d

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A properly setup shroud is going to help your ac also. The head pressures are certainly extreme without one.
I didn't see anywhere in your posts; is the engine fan direct or clutch?
 

chad

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...It's about 103° outside today so I thought it'd be a grwat idea to see what the temp does on a short drive. With the AC on the car climbed to 215, so I just drove it w/o AC for a while and the temp didn't drop below 209... Maybe the bock is just done for.
yup, better give it / sell it to me. Not worth very much (2 full pages, 35 posts)...
 

65coupei6

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Possible peanut gallery experiment, add the shroud and remove the 4 electric fans they MAY be blocking airflow
Good point. 4 fans is overkill and can block airflow to the radiator. I have one pusher from a Mazda 6 for a just in case I need to use it.
 

TrickSix

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I'm not sure what the AC setup is like on your car, but has anyone suggested checking the AC condenser for free air flow through it? If the condenser is a major impediment to air flow through your radiator, pretty much nothing else maters.
 
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chad

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bring dwn to 2 row as well.
 
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