I wuz meaning when prepped ta go again, not now~
When you install the new rad, fill it with straight water. Water will cool better. If all is good then back to your normal anti freeze mix. If your in SoCal then
a lower mix will help cooling
Just some basic numbers...
15 lb cap plain water will boil at about 246 degrees
15 lb cap and 33% antifreeze will boil at about 256 degrees
1) your numbers are in the ballpark, however are misleading.
2) I really hope you mean distilled water.
Whereas water boils at around 212°F. at atmospheric pressure, if exposed to 15 psi (a common radiator pressure cap), the boiling point will now be 45°F. higher (3 psi times 15 psi cap). Under this pressure, water boils at 257°F.
Coolant passages were pretty clean because of how many times we flushed the block. The head gasket was intact but was pretty rusty.Congrats head dosen't look to bad, maybe a little bit of rust built up in some of the cooling passages and the valves seem to be standing up good yet with not to much recession. How do the cooling passages look inside of the block and the old head gasket?
Yes. Actually about a year ago i noticed my pump leaking. I had a replacement on the shelf. When I swapped the pump there was a large part missing on one of the old pump impellers. I also switched to a 180 deg t stat as per shop manual and the car runs way cooler. I only use premixed g12 or higher g nummer coolant as was advised by the rad shop.have others experienced a water pump with a rotted away impaler? I have never seen this happen but maybe in hard water areas ? Myself, ive seen a few fail at the seals, usually what Ive seen is they leak quite sudddenly and seriously and at a bad time, but never a bad impaller. I changed mine for reliabity but I dont think it caused any of my my overheating issues.
Rinke, LOL that reminds me of a seemular time back in 1977, i also had that happen not to long after I gotten my low Milage 1977 Maverick 250 and was putting it back into running condition. I bought a rebuilt water pump for it and installed it then the trouble started not to long after. I could drive around town or up to about 55 MPH any faster it would start pushing the coolant out of the Radator and then it would overheat, I checked almost everything except for that water pump after all that was only a few months old at that time and it showed no signs of leaking externally, still I couldn't find anything else wrong. Finally I decided to pull that water pump back off and there was the cause of all this trouble the impeller was compleatly gone just the shaft was left turning in the pump housing. That was the last rebuilt water pump I used and went with only the new water pumps after that, because of that rebuilt pump cost me a lot of extra time and money in the damage it caused.Yes. Actually about a year ago i noticed my pump leaking. I had a replacement on the shelf. When I swapped the pump there was a large part missing on one of the old pump impellers. I also switched to a 180 deg t stat as per shop manual and the car runs way cooler. I only use premixed g12 or higher g nummer coolant as was advised by the rad shop.
Hi Clwoods, that new head looks great, will be looking forward to hearing how well it works! Did you measure how far the piston top is from the block deck, and the CC's of the old head? Are you still considering the C4 Trans swap? Best of luckCoolant passages were pretty clean because of how many times we flushed the block. The head gasket was intact but was pretty rusty.
The bottom 2 photos are the new head. All new Gaskets will go in.
The Flow Kooler water pump is not just a "high flow" pump its impeller is designed off of modern pumps that actually move more volume not just force the water through faster, coupled with it being machined out of billit, the pump is solid... I appreciate the input, especially as we are nearing all of the "reassembly check lists" always good to have a few reminders!I'm late to this party, but I'll add my bit:
Wayer pump. Just because it's new and a brand name doesn't mean it's working properly. I've noted a lot more new parts failing (and poor 'Quality Control") in the last couple years, even from major names. (Uncle Tony's Garage on YouTube for more examples).
Impellers can disintegrate, or more commonly just slip on the shaft once warmed up.