66 200 dies at idle when I press the gas.

S

stangdriver

This winter I did allot of upgrades on the 66 i6.

Painted the block, new starter, starter cable, battery cables, plugs, plug wires, gauge wiring harness, oil pressure sending unit, oil pan, pick up tube, oil pump, fuel pump and a rebuilt Autolite 1100 carb from eBay. Points replaced years ago with a Pertronix unit and a Flame-Thrower coil. Also did a oil change and coolant flush. After all the upgrades I started it up, it ran great. (I did not test the pedal or in gear) The car sat in the garage all winter.

I neglected to drain the gas tank or add any fuel stabilizer. I went to start it up yesterday and it ran like crap. I checked the gas and it was dark, thicker than normal yellow which stained the floor.

I drained the tank, added fresh gas and Gumout Fuel treatment. It will start up fine, about 50% of the time when I go to press the gas it dies. If I catch it in time, I can let off, press on it and it revs fine. I managed to run it around the block at 35 to 50 mph, it was rough but ran. It died about 5 times. It starts up fine and runs OK until I press the gas.

It runs great a high RPMs with my foot on the gas.

I did a visual inspection for vacuum leaks, didn't see any. It is also an automatic.

Last week I changed the fuel filter and PCV valve.

Long story short (too late), anything I can try or have missed?

Thank you.
 
The carb may require some attention due to the gunked up fuel.
You could try spraying some carb cleaner in there while it's running, but you might have to pop the carb off and clean it thoroughly.
Dying on acceleration might mean an accelerator pump issue.
It's basically a rubber disc that can get torn or not adjusted properly.
 
Sounds like a good cleaning would do it good. With the engine off and the air cleaner off, open the choke and then open the throttle all the way. Is there a stream of fuel pumped into the bore? If not, you need a new accelerator pump.
If you find that the pump is bad, I've been really pleased dealing with Mike's Carburetor parts. you can buy parts individually, and they ship USPS without gouging you on 'handling.' Their stuff gets to me within a couple of days. Their carburetor rebuild kits are reasonable, too if you think you need the whole shooting match. I rarely see the need for an entire kit, and will often order only the pump and a new bowl gasket.
 
stangdriver":2hgzag1r said:
This winter I did allot of upgrades on the 66 i6.

Painted the block, new starter, starter cable, battery cables, plugs, plug wires, gauge wiring harness, oil pressure sending unit, oil pan, pick up tube, oil pump, fuel pump and a rebuilt Autolite 1100 carb from eBay. Points replaced years ago with a Pertronix unit and a Flame-Thrower coil. Also did a oil change and coolant flush. After all the upgrades I started it up, it ran great. (I did not test the pedal or in gear) The car sat in the garage all winter.

I neglected to drain the gas tank or add any fuel stabilizer. I went to start it up yesterday and it ran like crap. I checked the gas and it was dark, thicker than normal yellow which stained the floor.

I drained the tank, added fresh gas and Gumout Fuel treatment. It will start up fine, about 50% of the time when I go to press the gas it dies. If I catch it in time, I can let off, press on it and it revs fine. I managed to run it around the block at 35 to 50 mph, it was rough but ran. It died about 5 times. It starts up fine and runs OK until I press the gas.

It runs great a high RPMs with my foot on the gas.

I did a visual inspection for vacuum leaks, didn't see any. It is also an automatic.

Last week I changed the fuel filter and PCV valve.

Long story short (too late), anything I can try or have missed?

Thank you.
Click to expand...


Is your vacuum advance connected, and if so, does it work?

---Craig
 
My $0.02... I had a similar problem with my '65. Went on for a LONG time, always died off idle, had to feather the gas, but it ran fine at 1/4 to WOT. I ended up FINALLY pulling the carb and rebuilding it. Turns out... I was missing 3 of the necessary check balls in my Autolite 1100. Replaced those... and dude. It ran like a brand new car. I'd be willing to bet, something in your carb is gummed up. Pull it, get a $20 rebuild kit from O'Reilly's, and make sure you blow out every passageway etc. in your carb with air compressor or a bottle of carb cleaner. Install the appropriate check balls, set the float... May be just what it needs.

And if not, you're out 20 bucks and a couple hours. Good luck!!!
 
schaferstephen":3ce7o7tm said:
My $0.02... I had a similar problem with my '65. Went on for a LONG time, always died off idle, had to feather the gas, but it ran fine at 1/4 to WOT. I ended up FINALLY pulling the carb and rebuilding it. Turns out... I was missing 3 of the necessary check balls in my Autolite 1100. Replaced those... and dude. It ran like a brand new car. I'd be willing to bet, something in your carb is gummed up. Pull it, get a $20 rebuild kit from O'Reilly's, and make sure you blow out every passageway etc. in your carb with air compressor or a bottle of carb cleaner. Install the appropriate check balls, set the float... May be just what it needs.

And if not, you're out 20 bucks and a couple hours. Good luck!!!
Click to expand...

I agree. Google for a blow up drawing of 1100 Autolite. Shows placement of check balls. My carb was missing two checkballs,(diaphragm passages) it took me awhile to zero in on the problem.
 
I'll echo that. My 1100 was missing one check ball and the weight on another. When I got the van it wouldn't run with the choke wide open, always had to be choked some. I had to fabricate the weight per the instructions @ Mike's carb parts. After was like night and day.
 
My autolite 1100's power valve was sticky, had the same symptoms. Poped off the cap and some pencil graphite and all was right in the world.
 
The 1100 is a very, very finicky carb. Works great on these engines when it's tuned right and in good working order... But it is FINICKY.
 
JackFish":24bodhmk said:
The carb may require some attention due to the gunked up fuel.
You could try spraying some carb cleaner in there while it's running, but you might have to pop the carb off and clean it thoroughly.
Dying on acceleration might mean an accelerator pump issue.
It's basically a rubber disc that can get torn or not adjusted properly.
Click to expand...

I think JackFish nailed it.

As much as I have wanted it to, I have never had some magic chemical fix a carburetor after running gummed up fuel.

Make sure your accelerator pump is working and properly adjusted. If there is any delay of the squirt of fuel from the pump and the opening of the throttle plate it will cause the problem you describe. With the engine off, remove the air cleaner and look down the carburetor and work the throttle. No fuel squirt = bad accelerator pump or linkage. Squirt delay = improper linkage adjustment. Also make sure your choke is adjusted and working properly.
 
I just changed to a 68 Mustang dizzy with mechanical advance, the 925B spring kit and plugged the spark control valve. Run 12 initial advance. sure runs much better. So it is worth the upgrade. 200 ci engine 65 Ranchero, 3 on the tree.
 
I sent the carb off to have it rebuilt, I didn't trust myself to do it :(

It looks amazing, looking forward to installing it today. I do have one other question. I did allot of research on this and I'm not sure which way to go.

I upgraded to an electric choke and I'm not sure where to run the power.

Below is what I found online:

Wire it to directly to the coil, others say no, that is bad idea, even from Holley.
Wire it to the alternator stator terminal, others say its not enough voltage.
Wire it to the starter solenoid, others say it will take voltage from the coil.
Do a relay and wire to the heater blower motor.

Any recommendations?

i.php
 
Later this evening I will help you with this electric choke wiring.
Any auto parts store carries relays & inline fuses.
I would help now, but I have an obligation till later today. Bill
 
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