68_sixpeashooter
Well-known member
I'm looking to get my 200 ci engine on my 68 mustang rebuilt. I know these engine aren't really high on hp but I'm looking to add a bit more with the rebuild. Any suggestions?
68 mustang inline six
- Thread starter 68_sixpeashooter
- Start date
Get the "The Ford Falcon Six Cylinder Performance Handbook", classic inlines sells them, and you can get it other places i understand. The reason i suggest it is because it has a great section on performance upgrade work that goes from 'cheap or free', to 'head still on', to 'head off', then 'bottom end' upgrading. The further you tear an engine down, of cource the more it costs and longer it takes. You need to answer how far you want to go to get accurate suggestions.
My favorites are:
Duraspark2 upgrade - going electronic on your ignition allows you to dodge all the annoyance of a points distributor, and allows hotter spark/larger plug gap to burn your charge better. it'll feel peppier and you'll feel it in the seat of your pants.
Bigger carb - This can be as simple as a better flowing one barrel, a 2 barrel on an adapter, all the way to a 2V conversion to direct connect a 2 barrel on your head or 3 1 barrel carbs with an offenhauser tri-power adapter. that can get pretty pricey.
Headers - always cool.
5 speed transmission upgrade - can be pricey and is a good amount of work. I'm finishing mine now.
scarebird disk brake conversion - never underestimate the value of stopping better.
My favorites are:
Duraspark2 upgrade - going electronic on your ignition allows you to dodge all the annoyance of a points distributor, and allows hotter spark/larger plug gap to burn your charge better. it'll feel peppier and you'll feel it in the seat of your pants.
Bigger carb - This can be as simple as a better flowing one barrel, a 2 barrel on an adapter, all the way to a 2V conversion to direct connect a 2 barrel on your head or 3 1 barrel carbs with an offenhauser tri-power adapter. that can get pretty pricey.
Headers - always cool.
5 speed transmission upgrade - can be pricey and is a good amount of work. I'm finishing mine now.
scarebird disk brake conversion - never underestimate the value of stopping better.
Welcome to the forum AND site!!!
Lotta great folk here & very knowlegable on these motors, so U came 2 the right place.
2X on what he said, fer sure...
What will ur end product be (for)? ALL answs flow from there. Amount wishing to devote? is almost as big a Q as 'application' (goal/end product). What other mods will be done (due to vehicles being a "system" - ask this Q because something done 2 1 prt effects the other prts)?
Have fun, B safe, enjoy da ed u ma cation!
(I have)
Lotta great folk here & very knowlegable on these motors, so U came 2 the right place.
2X on what he said, fer sure...
What will ur end product be (for)? ALL answs flow from there. Amount wishing to devote? is almost as big a Q as 'application' (goal/end product). What other mods will be done (due to vehicles being a "system" - ask this Q because something done 2 1 prt effects the other prts)?
Have fun, B safe, enjoy da ed u ma cation!
(I have)
68_sixpeashooter
Well-known member
I actually just got the electronic ignition on my mustang and I automatically felt the improvement! As regards to the headers what kind would you recommend?
I actually like the idea of the t5 transmission and the 3 1 barrel carbs. I know you said they can be pricey so how much do you think we're talking about?
Thanks,
I actually like the idea of the t5 transmission and the 3 1 barrel carbs. I know you said they can be pricey so how much do you think we're talking about?
Thanks,
68_sixpeashooter
Well-known member
chad":3c462y1n said:
I actually want my mustang to be a daily driver! I'd be willing to invest as much as it takes to make my inline six more for performance. I'm gonna be rebuilding my engine soon as I've recently had my c4 transmission rebuilt as well. In the future I plan to convert to front discs. Thanks for the help this is a great site
If you just want a bit more power with a rebuild you may want to consider a cam, larger one barrel or two barrel adapter and carb, basic port and polish and headers. That's probably more than a bit of power actually. I wouldn't direct mount a two barrel to an old small log head and you may be capable of basic porting yourself.
Definitely get the Falcon Manual.
Definitely get the Falcon Manual.
Howdy Peashooter:
And welcome to The Forum. I appreciated your input on your plans, typical uses and budget. I'd recommend the following to you-
*Start by doing a good tune-up and assessment of your current set up. FYI- If your '68 200 is basically stock, know that for '68 & '69 the Autolite 1100 carb was downsized to a 150 CFM rating, but the distributor was improved by adding centrifugal advance. The new distributor could not regain the power loss due to the downsized carb. The good news is the carb will be compatible with a newer DuraSpark II ignition. You said you got an electronic ignition for your engine. Which one?
While doing the tune-up add an additional 5 degrees of initial advance to the setting. Open the gap on your spark plugs to .045".
*When planning for a rebuild, focus on the block with an eye for what you might want this engine to do for you in the future. Basically plan for an overbore that is the least amount necessary to true the bores. Select pistons based on future possibilities. Chose a cam and cam gear, with a goal compression ratio in mind. The cam, CR, will determine you power band. Plan to deck the block to zero. That will do several things for your; 1st it will true the mating surface, it will improve the quench effect aiding combustion efficiency, it will effectively raise the compression ratio- all good things.
*If I were in your shoes, I'd be looking for a late model head right now, to rebuild to meet my goals. The head will do alot more for performance than just mounting the carb(s).
Plan now.
Again, welcome and enjoy the journey. We're here to help.
Adios, David
And welcome to The Forum. I appreciated your input on your plans, typical uses and budget. I'd recommend the following to you-
*Start by doing a good tune-up and assessment of your current set up. FYI- If your '68 200 is basically stock, know that for '68 & '69 the Autolite 1100 carb was downsized to a 150 CFM rating, but the distributor was improved by adding centrifugal advance. The new distributor could not regain the power loss due to the downsized carb. The good news is the carb will be compatible with a newer DuraSpark II ignition. You said you got an electronic ignition for your engine. Which one?
While doing the tune-up add an additional 5 degrees of initial advance to the setting. Open the gap on your spark plugs to .045".
*When planning for a rebuild, focus on the block with an eye for what you might want this engine to do for you in the future. Basically plan for an overbore that is the least amount necessary to true the bores. Select pistons based on future possibilities. Chose a cam and cam gear, with a goal compression ratio in mind. The cam, CR, will determine you power band. Plan to deck the block to zero. That will do several things for your; 1st it will true the mating surface, it will improve the quench effect aiding combustion efficiency, it will effectively raise the compression ratio- all good things.
*If I were in your shoes, I'd be looking for a late model head right now, to rebuild to meet my goals. The head will do alot more for performance than just mounting the carb(s).
Plan now.
Again, welcome and enjoy the journey. We're here to help.
Adios, David
68_sixpeashooter
Well-known member
CZLN6":3njqso5c said:
Hello David,
Thanks for the welcome, and I'm not sure what ignition was put in. When I bought it the car already had it but I will post the picture of my engine below.
I'm thinking about getting the falcon handbook because everyone is saying I should get it. I heard it helps a lot to plan this out. As regards to the late model head what kind should I get?
Thanks, John
68_sixpeashooter
Well-known member
CoupeBoy":33g8vwnh said:Just FYI, when you chose to Share from Photobucket, chose to copy/paste the text from "IMG for bulletin boards & forums" -> "Clickable thumbnail" instead of the "HTML for Websites and Blogs"
68_sixpeashooter":33g8vwnh said:
Thanks a lot! I'm new to this.
Looks like it's a stock points type distributor so guessing that they put a Pertronix I or II in it.
Howdy back Peashooter:
The variations on heads for your engine are covered in the Handbook, as well as the advantages and pitfalls. But, my opinion is the later model head from '78 to '82. Those years will give you the largest intake valves ever available from the factory, larger intake tract volume, hardened valve seats and a 1.75" carb hole. The only down side is the larger combustion chambers- which can be easily dealt with.
On your distributor, take a look under the distributor cap. If it is a PetroniX Ignitor unit it will say so on the little blackbox where the points used to be. An Ignitor on a '68 distributor is a fairly good unit.
What is prompting you to do an engine rebuild? Is it using oil? Or what?
Keep it coming.
Adios, David
The variations on heads for your engine are covered in the Handbook, as well as the advantages and pitfalls. But, my opinion is the later model head from '78 to '82. Those years will give you the largest intake valves ever available from the factory, larger intake tract volume, hardened valve seats and a 1.75" carb hole. The only down side is the larger combustion chambers- which can be easily dealt with.
On your distributor, take a look under the distributor cap. If it is a PetroniX Ignitor unit it will say so on the little blackbox where the points used to be. An Ignitor on a '68 distributor is a fairly good unit.
What is prompting you to do an engine rebuild? Is it using oil? Or what?
Keep it coming.
Adios, David
Howdy Back Chad:
Nope, the larger chamber volume on the late model heads of 62 ccs compared to 52 cc chambers on the '68 head reduces the compression ratio (CR) by a full point. In '68 the advertised CR of the 200 engines was 8.8:1. So reducing it to 7.8:1 would definitely be a downer. But, you're right that the volume of the chambers can be reduced by "surface grinding", or more commonly, "milling" the head. Milling is a standard procedure in any head refurbishing. It trues the mating surface, as well as accommodating a newer style (and thicker) head gasket.
For Peashooter, determining chamber volumes is only one consideration in a rebuild in achieving your desired CR. Other factors are machining the top of the block (decking), piston selection and over-boring.
PS, I'm still curious what is motivating you to do an engine overhaul?
Adios, David
Nope, the larger chamber volume on the late model heads of 62 ccs compared to 52 cc chambers on the '68 head reduces the compression ratio (CR) by a full point. In '68 the advertised CR of the 200 engines was 8.8:1. So reducing it to 7.8:1 would definitely be a downer. But, you're right that the volume of the chambers can be reduced by "surface grinding", or more commonly, "milling" the head. Milling is a standard procedure in any head refurbishing. It trues the mating surface, as well as accommodating a newer style (and thicker) head gasket.
For Peashooter, determining chamber volumes is only one consideration in a rebuild in achieving your desired CR. Other factors are machining the top of the block (decking), piston selection and over-boring.
PS, I'm still curious what is motivating you to do an engine overhaul?
Adios, David
"...machining the top of the block (decking)..."
done (sometimes) w/the "milling" for CR increase and mating surface alighnment?
I read the "Manual' (11th edition) showing how to measure the head's combustion chamber and how to reach for the correct compression ratio for the vehicle's need . Lotta work...
On the otherhand, let's see what Peashooter needs-
"...what's motivating you to do an engine overhaul?"
done (sometimes) w/the "milling" for CR increase and mating surface alighnment?
I read the "Manual' (11th edition) showing how to measure the head's combustion chamber and how to reach for the correct compression ratio for the vehicle's need . Lotta work...
On the otherhand, let's see what Peashooter needs-
"...what's motivating you to do an engine overhaul?"
68_sixpeashooter
Well-known member
Howdy back, David
Turns out I do have a Petronix. I just checked it out. And the reason I'm doing an engine overhaul is because its leaking oil and my spark plugs are getting fouled out. I have a friend who suggested I only rebuild the engine head and that will solve the leaking problem. I actually want to rebuild the entire engine because I have performance in mind for the future.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Peashooter
Turns out I do have a Petronix. I just checked it out. And the reason I'm doing an engine overhaul is because its leaking oil and my spark plugs are getting fouled out. I have a friend who suggested I only rebuild the engine head and that will solve the leaking problem. I actually want to rebuild the entire engine because I have performance in mind for the future.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Peashooter
if you are looking at upgrading discs i have found a ebay guy that has a kit that uses oem 11" rotors that are drilled for 4 lug, they use the larger gm calipers but also use the 4 piston Kelsy Haynes caliper brackets so you can upgrade really easy to 4 piston calipers. and this kit comes with the correct pedal for power brakes. scarebirds disc brakes are good but only 9" rotors and because you're spindles are already the same as the v8 you might as well use the bigger rotors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969- ... es&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969- ... es&vxp=mtr
I'm sorry, Peashooter, I missed it - if U mentioned where U C the oil leak from...
If a fairly clean engine - where is it seen?
Of course rebuilding for (more power) is fun, a goal etc...do U seek a quick 1/4 mi, or total top high speed, track? strip? street? each may require a different build -
If a fairly clean engine - where is it seen?
Of course rebuilding for (more power) is fun, a goal etc...do U seek a quick 1/4 mi, or total top high speed, track? strip? street? each may require a different build -
68_sixpeashooter
Well-known member
Hello, Chad
The oil is leaking from the spark plugs. And I'm looking more for a quick 1/4 mile but I also wanna be able to drive it on the street.
The oil is leaking from the spark plugs. And I'm looking more for a quick 1/4 mile but I also wanna be able to drive it on the street.
