Adding some modern zip to a 200

KISSArmy, this is for you to be encouraged in delving in a little deeper. Others have taken the stock 67 hp at the rear wheels of a fresh 200 Mustang, and added just bolt ons, and gotten 125 rear wheel hp. So your 120 Gross hp six can make well over 160 hp rated as a modern engine is. Just don't ever think that a 250 was ever a 155 hp engine. That is pure SAE Gross tubing exhaust fantasy. What any Ford six is though is a fantastic engine to modify to make that torque work for you. You can also make real power with just carbs and a camshaft. I've liked my 165 hp net 250 six, but I liked my 91 hp 3.3 six a lot more, because the Americans made the engine smooth, and it had a truckload of foot pounds to get by on, from 650 rpm to about 3600 rpm. On the street, it was as much fun as my much more toquey 250. The whole package was really sweet and not rough. The 250 is a truck motor in comparison. Take advice, and if it floats your boat, you can still find 250's around if you know where to look.



CZLN6":2lz03lh0 said:
....federally mandated requirement to state rear wheel HP rather than higher flywheel HP ratings and it ends up comparing apples to elephant.


David, live for ever, but know this...the SAE Net J1349 rating was, and is, still an engine flywheel rating, not rear wheel roller hp at all. SAE Gross in specification J245 and J1995 was engine flywheel too. There' s no excuse for a 50% loss in Gross to Net horspower, unless Ford was cheating and cooking the books. It did so because J245 ALLOWED them to do so. The 1968 Tunnel Port G code engine was a case in point, the 69-70 G code Boss 302 another. Just taking the horspower reading at just 4600 rpm instead of its peak power rpm got the issurance indusrty so incensed that Ford was stuck in making its permnace cars more than 10 pounds per horspower under the old scheme. The free market rapidly grew sick of anual increases in size, to the point that the only fresh MPG option was buying a Celica or Mercury Capri or Datsun 260Z. Those Gross hp ratings have a heck of a lot to answer for.

J245 allowed Ford to cook the books on the 250 by playing with settings, and getting away with it. That cannot happen with Certified J1349. There is honesty in it, right down the line. Its the best horsepower fist thumper ever. Its picked up some pretty amazing aberations on transmission loss, and continues to show that its possiable to lose 50% or more from the engine dyno to the chassis dyno.

BCOWANWHEELS":2lz03lh0 said:
torque always has and always will do the work. that's why all tall deck engines are always in hi work vehicles


I am with you. I drive a Isuzu truck with an 475 cubic inch 7.8 liter I6 ( The 6HK1 SOHC 24V turbocharged engine with 240 HP and 690 lb·ft of torque).

I'm with you, but the point is that there isn't even a 10% power increase with a 250, and its not as nice as a 200 can be.

Even a softened 1966 306 hp GT350 proves that a 1969 290 hp Boss 302 isn't half the car. And an 86 Mustang GT with its timing bumped can run away from each, and a 305 hp 3.7 2013 Mustang V6 can run from them all. How does 0-60 mph in 5.3 seconds, quarter mile in 13.9 seconds at 100.1 mph grab you? And 45 mpg at 45 mph.



Econoline":2lz03lh0 said:
In that Ford flier they list the net weight both the same, that can't be right

They are because it is the Australian tall deck 200 with 9.38" deck and 6.275". The US 250 checks off a minimum of another 25 pounds before the axle, trans and steering needs revision to suit the added torque. If you want 6 turns lock to lock, a 7.25" axle, and can make a C4 suit the motorway without loosing out on a lot of offline pep, I'd be supprised. The 250 is the most latent engine ever, even with the higher lift, higher duration cam.

Stock US 200 is 365 to 385 pounds, the Aussie 200 and 250 are near to the same 410 weight (the 250 Oz crank is a few pounds heavier than the Oz 200 crank, but overall, the 3/8" shorter conrods are a few pounds lighter). So there is no editiorial bias, there was a high and standard compression version with 135 or the shown 130 hp as a 200. The reason the Aussie 200 made more power were the longer rods due to the engine being breathing restricted by the intake. Improving rod ratio on a restricted breathing engine can make a lot of extra peak power. In this instance, there were three things going on to check and balance the 200 to 250 comparions.

1. On a dyno simulation it gets another 5 net hp from those rods instead of a 4.715" rods and 7.803" deck.
2. On the debit side, the US 250 has a 103 thou piston deck shortfull and 9.469" tall deck with the same conrods as the Aussie 250,
3. but it has a wilder camshaft than the Aussie 250, 259 degrees instead of 256.
4. On a dyno simultion, that makes the Aussie 250 engine 3 to 4 hp net more powerfull, the US 250 engine is 3 to 4 hp less, yet both US and Aussie 250's were rated at the same 155 hp gross.

I know for a fact that that 155 hp SAE Gross rating is simply not true, because the T code 200 did 18.7 second quarter miles, the L code 250, 18.2. Somewhere, the 250 lost one heack of a lot of horspower for a 3000 pound car.


Due to SAE Gross being so ropey, in the US and Australia, the 155 hp was just a paper reading, but the 1972 to 1980 US readings were measured the same way as the 1971 Australian net ratings. They actually put the 250 in at 93 hp instead of 98 in some 1972 US versions.


The L code 250.... It TECHNICALLY out rated the V code 240 Big Six on paper...it was rated at a 250 like 155 in the F100 truck, but in some publications, 145 in the LTD and Galaxie. The 130 PS DIN net the TUV gave it in West Germany was 128 HP SAE net. The 200 was rated at 105 ps DIN net, or 103.5 hp SAE net, more than the Australian 250's SAE net rating of 102 hp. The issue was the termperature correction...on the early engine tests, the TUV imputed the PS value by a method that has some issues.


The ISO Certified SAE J1349 method still provides the best approach between the experimental and calculated acceleration times, since the United States has been burned by the pre 1972 Gross horsepower advertising more than any other nation.


The great thing is scientists and engineers refuse to do piddling competitions like the rest of us, and analyse the facts.

http://scielo.br/pdf/jbsmse/v25n3/a10v25n3.pdf


The German TUV found all this out, and the game was up by 1966, and every year from 72 to date, I rejoyce in proper SAE Net engine ratings.

The information above in the flier was put together by Bill Santacecione, who did the 2V head work as well as the dyno cell work on all the Aussie market US made import 351 4v HO Windsor and Cleveland engines as well. He was the guy who discovered the rod ratio, piston deck and devoloped the better breathing 2V head.

There was a reason Ford went to net readings in the US...the numbers game was up, it rapidly caved in when US cars had to be DIN net rated in Germany to even get registered. Suddenly the gross horspower ratings got reported as net figures, and everone should know

Incidently, the 170 HP 2V M code engines weight 410 pounds and did 16.9 second quarter miles. The 302 Cleveland engines which weighed 569 pounds, and the 230 hp with single exhaust, 240 with dual exhaust did 16.9 second quarter miles as well. Why would a car with 60 to 70 more horspower be no faster or quicker than the 2V six? And why did the 2V six and 302C 2v engine have the same jetting as each other.

The answer is that the 3037 pound Falcon250 2V 170 Horsepower engine had 149 net horspower, and the 3196 pound 302 C 2V had with 60 to 70 more advertised horsepower was no quicker, weighed 159 pounds more and actually only made 10 hp more. 168 hp net.

And when Ford was getting away with reporting Gross HP ( such as its laughable 240 hp at 4600 rpm G code tunnel port twin 4-bbl 1968 G code 302's which actually made 290 hp Net at 5400 rpm), Germany required a DIN net engine dyno test for a T5 Mustang to be registered in Germany. It just so happens the DIN net ratings were the assigned to the US SAE Gross ratings, making the 200 Gross 2V and 225 Gross 4V 289's respectively 172.6 and 187.4 hp net. ( 1 PS = 0.986 Net HP). Now, if Ford wasn't taking the rating at another point on the rpm curve like it did all the time in the late 50's and early 70's, the Net hp reading would have been 16.6% uniformly lower. As that is the difference on all other SAE Gross to DIN Net conversions.

SAE HP Net vs DIN Net is just a correction for engine bay ancillaries and temprature

See how the factory ratings of 289's, 390's and 410's fell. http://www.at.ford.com/SiteCollectio...brochure_2.jpg

1966DINNetPSversesSAEGrossHP.jpg


German TUVBHP DIN Net VIN Code Year CID SAE Gross BHPBore StrokeCarb Comp Ratio
105 PS 104 bhpDIN net T 65 199.5 120 @ 4400 3.680 x 3.126 1V 9.2:1
130 PS 128 bhpDIN net V 65 239.4 155 @ 4400 4.000 x 3.175 1V 9.2:1
175 PS 173 bhpDIN net C 65-67 288.5 200 @ 4400 4.000 x 2.870 2V 9:01
190 PS 187 bhpDIN net A 66-67 288.5 225 @ 4800 4.000 x 2.870 4V 10:01
230 PS 227 bhpDIN net X 67-69 389.6 280 @ 4400 4.050 x 3.780 2V 10.5:1
265 PS 261 bhpDIN net Z 66-68 389.6 315 @ 4600 4.050 x 3.780 4V 10.5:1
280 PS 276 bhpDIN net M 66-67 410.2 330 @ 4600 4.050 x 3.980 4V 10.5:1
295 PS 291 bhpDIN net MEL 66-68 461.7 340 @ 4600 4.380 x 3.830 4V 9.2:1



And therein lies the lesson.... readings in the pictures above.
 
"...They are because it is the Australian tall deck 200 with 9.38" deck and 6.275". …"
of what yr? As I read I appreciate, Dean.
All the info would B more helpful to me if the yr, country of origin (Oz/US) were included. I have trouble keeping it all straight (& 1 reason is the gross/net change in '70 or whenever. so related Q: )

What does the DIN mean?
TRhanks ~
 
chad":2amr74d0 said:
"...They are because it is the Australian tall deck 200 with 9.38" deck and 6.275". …"
of what yr? As I read I appreciate, Dean.
All the info would B more helpful to me if the yr, country of origin (Oz/US) were included. I have trouble keeping it all straight (& 1 reason is the gross/net change in '70 or whenever. so related Q: )

What does the DIN mean?
TRhanks ~

It sure woulda helped, but TMI...

Year July1971 to July 1976
Australia's Geelong made 200 and 250 tall deck six.

Gross Net change was actually 1973 to 1976 in Australia and generally 1973 the United Kingdom, but Ford Australia refused to include the changes as its cars were US engined, United Kingdom enginend, and later on German engined with US emissions equipment. So the Pinto 2000 engine used in the Cortna and Capri was rated at 112 hp SAE Gross, and then 98 hp DIN net in Germany. Then the 1978-1983 US Ford Courier was Mazda engined with a JIS SAE net rating. Then they changed from SAE Net to DIN Net, and then rerated the engines which had dual exhasts about 8% or 16 hp lower, and the 250 became a cross flow, and the 200 cross flow lost 20 hp (from 130 to 110 hp) and the 250 lost 32 hp, from 155 to 123, and each engine went faster even though the car was 60 pounds heavier.

DIN stands for German Institute for Standardization (Deutsches Institut für Normung)
JIS=Japanese Industrial Standard.

Its all useless, all is vanity and vexation. Everyone knows a US Horse Power is more honest then a French Cheval Vapeur or German Pferdestärke or Tojo 馬力 and that a 10 gallon hat doesn't hold ten gallons, and that a US gallon is 231 cubic inches, the same as a Buick 3800 V6.


I blame the English. Watt on earth were they up to comparing a combustion engine to a horse? Its a Killer, watt, old man
 
"As for the exhaust, I am skeptical of the benefits of X's adaptation of the cat exhaust manifold. I'm curious if anyone has ever done it and more curious about how well it worked"

I agree with David. The X cat may be a handy place to mount a turbo, but would kill bottom end torque for street driven 200. 41/4 in outlet would allow more volume of gas, but it slows the exiting velocity of the exhaust gas. I'd use 68 exhaust manifold, or go to a tuned header.
 
yes, the killer watts bring in more, but ok, so more clarity…
thnx.
 
hotroady":1lso4fur said:
"As for the exhaust, I am skeptical of the benefits of X's adaptation of the cat exhaust manifold. I'm curious if anyone has ever done it and more curious about how well it worked"

I agree with David. The X cat may be a handy place to mount a turbo, but would kill bottom end torque for street driven 200. 41/4 in outlet would allow more volume of gas, but it slows the exiting velocity of the exhaust gas. I'd use 68 exhaust manifold, or go to a tuned header.

Be sceptical, that is always good. But up to 9.5 extra horsepower and 6 lb-ft extra torque of evidence is evidence enough.
The header is 4-1/4", but not fully into the exhaust header pipe; its annular area is just cousioned boundary layer, so its very efficent. Probably why the torque peak magnitude is rasied, and the peak rpm sometimes dropped. Its torque and power is improved throughout the rev range, even with the cam channge they made.

Mistake ridden, there could be 12.5 hp and 7 lb-ft extra if anyone is silly enough not to crosscheck the 4speed SROD Mercury Capri 3.3 RS Hatch article on page 64 to 66 in Motor Trend March 1981.

MotorTrendMarch1981.jpg


I'm sure it did a 19.08 second quarter mile at 71 mph and a 90 mph top speed. I had my 1981 Hatch to 95 mph with ease. On that car with a 0.46 drag factor, 20.8 sq ft frontal area, and 190 section tires, that acceleration rate and terminal trap speed speed requires 87 hp at least to move a 2640 pound car with two testers and a full tank of gas, and only 67 hp to make 90 mph, and 78 to make 95 mph and just 90 flywheel hp to make 100 mph.

Feed in 3055 pounds and 87hp into the http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php program.

is 19.07 seconds and MPH of 70.86 MPH.


If we accept that the 97.5 hp at 4000 and 161 lb-ft 1400 rpm is Jim MacQueen's eye sight error while perhaps proof reading under a Helmick Covered Bridge ,

( along with the Holley VV 2-bbl carb -it was a Holley 1-bbl 1946C
and a Ford mistake, the 2.49 final drive ratio -it was a 3.08:1 axle with 0.81 overdrive 4th on the last SROD's before the T4 got subbed in later in 1981 with the 2.47 axle)

in this March 1981 Motor Trend article

http://www.ascmclarencoupe.com/Literatu ... 1981_2.jpg

then the real Detalis were ex SAE and from http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... comparison

Info depends on where you look. The Mustang site mustangattitude.com for T and B codes.

Has 87HP for 1982 http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/...show=All&view=engine&optn=B-code&comm=&page=1

, and 94 hp for 1981

http://mustangattitude.com/mustang/engine_allhp.shtml


http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?32233-Ford-Fox-Engine-Reference-Guide

The engine code is the 5th digit of the VIN on pre-81 models
The engine code is the 8th digit of the VIN on 81-up models

1979-79 Mustang
200 CI (3.3L) 1bbl I6
Vin code: T
compression: 8.5:1
horsepower: 85hp @ 3600rpm
torque: 154 lbs-ft @ 1600rpm
Availability: 1978-79

1980-88 Cougar
200 CI (3.3L) 1bbl I6
Vin code: B, T
compression: 8.6:1
horsepower: 91hp @ 3800rpm
torque: 160 lbs-ft @ 1600rpm
Availability: 1980-82

1981-82 Granada
200 CI (3.3L) 1bbl I6
Vin code: B, T
compression: 8.5:1
horsepower: 88hp @ 3800rpm
torque: 154 lbs-ft @ 1400rpm
Availability: 1981-82

1983-86 LTD
200 CI (3.3L) 1bbl I6
Vin code: X
compression: 8.5:1
horsepower: 92hp @ 3800rpm
torque: 156 lbs-ft @ 1400rpm
Availability: 1983

1983-86 Marquis
200 CI (3.3L) 1bbl I6
Vin code: X
compression: 8.5:1
horsepower: 92hp @ 3800rpm
torque: 156 lbs-ft @ 1400rpm
Availability: 1983


94.5 hp was the rated amount for a 1980 B-code manual, but it varied from 87 to 94.5 nominal 1980 thru to 1983, with any number of ratings between 87 and 94.5.

Torque was the same or up to 6 lb-ft more, at less rpm, depending on year.

In addition, Ford at some stage had to detox the engine for manual gearboxes, while some areas didn't have that option. Even when Ford retarded and played with the camshaft, the result was still more power and more torque with this exhaust in an era where there was now a mandatory air pump, and secondary AIR in CA models. The 1980 B code model had 9.5 hp extra over the 1979. Then it varied according to other changes in 1981, 1982, and 1983, but always more than 85 hp by 3 to 7 hospower. Rated torque was often up despite the variances.
 
Again as David alluded to: I would accept someone's opinion who actually adapted an X cat system, in place of a '68 exhaust system, as valid evidence.

Personally, it's a no go, right out of the gate for me. I'd find it far too hideous in appearance, stock or modified.
 
lol -wonder if OP will return .

extasy should have started his own thread on the history of ford six HP ratings
 
gb500":2hz24cq9 said:
lol -wonder if OP will return .

extasy should have started his own thread on the history of ford six HP ratings

:nod: Good on you gb500. It wasn't supposed to be a 250 or exhaust thing, honest, others asked, I had the info so sorry bout that. Went crazy like an X maniac.

I've started other post before at your request, and can do it again (xrwagon and mike1157 ;) ).


KISSarmy will get the info he needs here, and I'm quite sure he won't be left with any mis-infomation. Its a forum, not an x Kiwi Autocracy. I just happen to be 5 hours behind and one day forward of most of you so you all will have to keep me honest and not be a post hog. One thing I will say is the primary cat system is what made the 1984 to 1985 M code 2-bbl CFI and 4-BBL 5 liter 165 to 210 hp Mustang V8's so power full and clean. Fords system engineers may have been "on crack" looking at it, but it sure as heck worked on every install, making power without complication. Yeah, its ugly the way I Microsoft Painted it, but no one sees anything. The header tube is covered in a shroad normally.

Latter! The Hp details are already in other posts, which I've rpeated continually over the years. In many, many other posts!

"Primary Light off catalyst the X shell and 20th century Fox" you'll get an idea on how the system works.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74513

I do this linking becasue the thumbnail links require a lot of work, and from practical experience with others like mike 1157, when the links are repeated, most of us Eye Six guys here are only interested in making sure our 1-bbl T codes are running better than they did before. We aske the same basic questions 365 differernt ways, and it gets tiring if your a total engineering car nut.

The extra information is just not processed when you thumbnail. Other sites allow larger pictures, and more of them, and do things differently, so it requires real time and presence of mind to regurgitate other site information in the manner I do.

Others just opt out and use Facebook and other websites (no complaints, just saying), but FordSix Peformance, whatever happens, is an on line mecca of info just the same as any other site, and I'd like you all to be informed, not ignorant. And just so you know, it sometimes takes 10 or 20 years for people to really figure out how smart Ford were in the Malaise Era and before.
 
Also for a bit more performance look into using a carb from a 250 on your 200. It does take some work but should help.
 
bmbm40":ryo0wy8e said:
Also for a bit more performance look into using a carb from a 250 on your 200. It does take some work but should help.

Both the YFA and 1946 and RBS are 1.3125" venturi and 1.6875" throttle 1-bbl carbs with the same or nearto peak cfm flow figures. There is no difference in engine power.


The YFA and RBS are good carbs. Ford used the YFA as it simplified the use of a common F100 air cleaner and parts, but the autochoke requires a 1/4" bump in that F100 truck air cleaner. The 1946 was an easier install, it was upsiaed to the larger ventir and throtle of the YFA and some earlier Autolite 1101's and 1940's. So it suddenly became the same flow rate as the YFA. Before Holley got taken over by Carter, Ford got a sharp rate and a very good carb for the reduced engine height in the Foxes (The 1946 is a Mopar 1945 carb, based on the older 1940).

The Fox hood line is very shallow, its hard, but not impossiable to fit the YFA on the 3.3 Fox it just touches the underneath of the hood. The 250 and YFA won't fit at all without a hood blister or scoop.


On an X shell, you've got enough hood space to fit anything. But the YFA or RBS isn't in itself a performance boost compared to the 1946. It is compared to some versions of the 1100, and some replacment 1940 Autolite/Holley/Motorcraft carbs.


A lot of people dis the 1946, its a very misunderstood carb. It is an excellent carb, but depedning on year, it may also require a throttle positioner, and A/C throttle kicker and vapor line (in the 1981 to 1983 Holey 1946c version) and has a different kind of choke pulloff mechanism. As such, it requires speficic pcv, power wire and ignition advance line venting to work properly. When done right, it is the equal of the YFA. It has a brilliant float bowel, and copes with anything a 200 or 250 could throw at it. You can eliminate the SCV Loadomatic if its still got it, and replace it with a Duraspark II.


As 64Ranchero200 noted, and electric pump is an option verses the mechanical fuel pump issues.

As for my 1981 Mustang 3.3 and 1984 Facon 4.1, yeah, the Carter fuel pump diaphram failed, and let fuel right into the sump. Its got some issues for sure when that happens. If using an electric pump, you then have to look at some really good Ford safety provisions so you don't pump raw gas into the engine bay in an accident. There is an inertial cutout used on the CFI and EFI Fords, a great idea for any electric pump Ford. You can bypass it manually.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhP9vZJSqsA

4


this is the fuel pump inertia switch.



these could be in MANY places depending on the year and exact model.. in the trunk on the left or right hinge brace.. in the trunk down in the wheel well.. usually with a hole in the plastic panel to push the button through...

could be in the left kick panel in the drivers foot well... look for a hole where the parking brake release is.. or the hood release.. in the panel to the left of your left leg when sitting in the driver seat.. and the hole is usually flat.. like one in a pool table..

Read more: http://forums.mustangandfords.com/50-mu ... z41MWjLzRu


The second major is. Any time an electric fuel pump is used, you have to decide how your going to do it CORRECTLY to eliminate emergency and 1/4 empty tank issues. You have to ask yourself, Do I fell lucky, Punk?.

It its a Hi Pressure EFI tank swap, its easy. Run a Mallory Hi Pressure Return Line Fuel Pressure Regulator like #29388, and wind the line pressure at the carb down to 3.5 psi tops, and have a return line fitted.


You must address some engineering issues the same way Ford did in the USA in 1980, and Ford Australia in 1982.

If the in tank pump outputs in the Lo 6-8 PSI range and yhen feeds the frame mounted pump, which is the hi pressure pump (approx 40 PSI), then you can just remove the Hi pressure pump, and use the in tank pump, running it to a pressure regulator to get it down to the 3-5 PSI needed for a carb. Job done. Sometimes, a return line is a good idea if hot fuel handling is an issue.


In Australia, Ford used the same fuel tank in station wagons and utlity pickups from 1966 to 1997. So they retrofitted the same US CFi special LO/HI system, same as the Fox and Panther CFI V6's and V8'S. The reason for the Lo pressure pump is that Ford knew it would need a Stillage/Surge Pot for an in steel tank Hi pressure pump.

A High pressure pump cannot self-prime (cannot generate net postitive suction head).

The Lo pressure Lift pump to Hi pressure external pump makes sure there is a constant flow of fuel to the high pressure pump on stock steel tanks, no re-engineering required.

Ford refused to re-engineer any passenger car tank untill they could make EFI manadatory. The CFI 5.0 1980-1985 Panther/ CFI 5.0 1981-1984.5 Fox/ EFI4.1 and CFI 3.2/3.9 1982-1991 Aussie Falcon steel tank system is the least you sould ever use when an electric pump is fitted.

Are you going to use the stock pickup in the tank? If YES, you have to cover off the net postitive suction head issues.

If the tank is NOT to be opened up and have a stillage/swril pot fitted, then you HAVE to copy the CFI 1980-1984 Fox/Panther LO/Hi Ford unit, and have an outside Hi pressure with an intank tank staging pump.

Or you will risk the four bad works of non EFI gasoline tanks below


Ford Australia did this for all station wagons with the metal tank from 1983 to 1991.


Normally, Ford use a swirl pot or stillage pot. No exceptions. The reason for this is that


1. at 1/4 of a tank and below, there is a severe risk of dangerous fuel starvation in gradient or moderatly mobile situations.
2. On my Exlplorer, a situation like that could cause being stranded on my steep driveway, or
3. on an offroad trail.
4. In hard cornering or emergency situations, same issue.

When, for instance, the sensortrac four wheel drive kicks in, its the same deal, possibility dangerous a momentary starvation.

The glib response from all other EFI and electric fuel pump appliers is the same, to "just don't let the tank get below 1/4 fill",

That is not an answer.

The reason people generally give that answer is they don't want to be the one dropping or swapping a fuel tank and applying a LO/HI system or well designed HI pressure stillage/swirl pot, and then potentially welding it up again.

http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php ... t-into-xe/
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... arb-set-up
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... g%29/page2
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vr- ... -tank.html
 
I should have been more specific about using the Autolite 1101. If he has an 1100 with 185 cfm the 1101 is 210 cfm. 25 more cfm.
The RBS has 215 cfm. 30 more cfm.
As discussed in the Handbook using a 200 carb on a 170 for a mild performance increase increasing cfm from 156 to185. 29 more cfm.

I have not personally done this but it is all in the Handbook which I consider to be a reliable source and am inclined to believe that more cfm could make a bit more power especially combined with a recurved DSII. Just the recurved DSII with all the associated ignition parts and increased spark plug gap should make a difference. Then hang some headers on it with a free flowing exhaust!
If all this amounts to a 20 horsepower increase on a 100 horsepower motor that would probably be a noticeable increase and based upon the original post that seems to be aligned with his goals.
I know nothing about a c4 but if there is some sort of performance shift kit or other performance mods for it he may want to look into that as well.
Of course it is dependent on the current engine condition and the ability to get the most out of all this with a comprehensive tuning.
Hope to hear back from the op soon.
 
So everyones on the same page. The Falcon Six hand bock is pivitol, but there are a few additional factors that should be included in the carb and exhaust choice if it is to be changed. Don't discount any Ford part that was supplied in 1980 to 1983 Fords. The clues should be that the bigger exhaust in the 1980 250 98 hp Fords didn't yield any extra power even with a 1.31" venturi carb, so the air cleaner must have been the restriction point. On the small sixes, its was worth 3 to 9 hp.

The problem is the 1940 part number has two different kinds of carb,

one is a small 1100 replacement,
the other a larger 1101 replacement.

The venturi increase on Ak Millers development six allowed a 50% boost at the rear wheels. Thats 50 hp potential with the bigger 1101 1.29" ventur carb.

The fact is, the 1946 is a 1.31" venturi carb, and so are some of the 1940's. That fact needs to be communicated. That's why the air flow figuers are better.

When going to Fords larger Autolite and Motocraft 2-bbl carbs, the bigger the venturi, the more the flow. If a bigger carb make less power, then you have to retrim the fuel air ratios by changing the amount of K cluster well tube emulsion holes, and changing the power valve and jets. You add a hole to lean the mixture, remove a hole to richen. The K hanger is often cracked, but can be remade to suit. So cfm wise, you can make the chages that allow a 50% at the wheels power boost by using factory parts.

A 1946 Holley always makes more power than the smaller venturi 1100 Autolite and small venturi 1940 Holley. And its common as French Fires.


193 to 195 cfm, same as some of the later big YFA's. The RB and large 1940 are slightly better again, but its not certain that the extra cfm will show if the air cleaner only flows 190 cfm. The best air cleaners are the 1975-1977 300/250 YFA Air cleaners found on the Mavericks and F100's.


Its important that the value of the common late model carbs, and the things that you have to do to get it to run, is noted so that it is an valid option open to you. Like the exhaust, its a valid option on a small six. And again, its proven that despite 155-145 gross hp ratings, a 250 really made only 98 hp net from 1968 to 1980, then the power increase over an 85 to 94 hp 3.3 is only due to induction and exhaust, if the heads were the same on both engines. Any time an engie is airflo limited, that's what happens unless the cam, head and exhasut are optimized to overcome the restrictions.



The 1972-2012 4-bbl NASCAR, Historical C 2-bbl Carrera Pan America and 1-bbl and 2-bbl oval track forumula races are your friend. The common writings of some automotive engineers and companies shows you how to increase power with restrictive induction. By just selecting simple parts which actually get results, you can then build a better six. That's why we talk about other carb and exhaust options.
 
on that final (2) note(s) I'll resubmit what another directed our attention to:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272146466335?ul_noapp=true

looks like some 1 had fun w/a hack saw, some old prts and a welder
It looks like 3 oe exh manifolds were combined. Let me know what you all think ~
 
To All interested:

X has been making a case for the Late model Holley #1946. We have mentioned it the handbook but have not recommended it for several reasons. They are that the 1946 requires a few to many links to vacuum switches and thermal switches and other links to function properly. Most moders want something that can be bolted on an go. The 1946 is not user friendly to the shade tree tuner. That is why we keep our recommends to early Holleys, Autolites and Carter YFs and RBS.

IF you are capable of navigating the labyrinth of support structures for a 1946, like X is, have at it.

Hey Kissangle, have we scared you away? Overwhelmed you? Let us know how you are doing.

Adios, David
 
RichCreations":mloxxlc9 said:
on that final (2) note(s) I'll resubmit what another directed our attention to:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272146466335?ul_noapp=true

looks like some 1 had fun w/a hack saw, some old prts and a welder
It looks like 3 oe exh manifolds were combined. Let me know what you all think ~

I think a "welded" cast iron manifold won't last very long before cracking (if it does not already leak).

thin castings require painstaking procedures: preheat oven, controlled cool down. Weld in 1/8 in increments, than peen, with SMAW.
Probably higher success with TIG process. Cast iron intakes can be brazed relatively easy.
 
"The problem is the 1940 part number has two different kinds of carb,

one is a small 1100 replacement,
the other a larger 1101 replacement.

The venturi increase on Ak Millers development six allowed a 50% boost at the rear wheels. Thats 50 hp potential with the bigger 1101 1.29" ventur carb. "

The fact is:
[/quote]

I think you ought to read the article again. Ak Miller only claimed about a 5hp increase from going from the Autolite 1100, to the Autolite 1101
 
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