Adhesives Question

tri-power 250

Well-known member
I have a vacuum leak between the Aluminum plate that mounts the carb and the iron intake. Which adhesive, epoxy ... is the best to use as a sealing material?? And is the use of a gasket necessary? Which material, Cork, cardboard???? I don't know?
Thanks,
Ken
 
Parts stores sell a material for making gaskets out of. I always put gaskets under carburator adapters and between carbs and adapters or intakes. Otherwise I would think the copper silicone might work..

-ron
 
Which material, Cork, cardboard???? I don't know?

If you make a gasket for intake than the paper cardboard type is very good, some cork can have porosity so is more suitable for use around oil. Silicone's may not be fuel resistant so make sure you check that out, then there were the old stye sealers like Permatex, Gasgacinch, or Coppercoat that work very well.
 
Ken, on my 2V conversion log head all I have ever used between the log and the aluminum plate is hi-temp rtv...the red stuff. Have never had a vacuum leak...not ever. If you go this route apply a liberal coat on the log and then evenly screw down the adaptor. I immediately run a small blade screwdriver along the seams to insure a good seal at the joints the best I can. For good measure I put a small amount on the threads of the screws as well before screwing them in. Give it 24 hours to cure. Good luck.
 
8) i never use sealant between the carb adapter and the intake, or between the carb and the intake adapter for that matter. make sure the gasket surfaces are clean, and use good quality gaskets. one more thing, make sure the torque you apply is even between the bolts.
 
I always make my own gaskets from really heavy non rusticated card board if its carb or intake manifold, if equiped with one , that is. Good old non hardwood, cardboard magazine holders are the best. Then use a smear of redcote or red temperature resistant RTV. And threasd seal, and tighten the being Jesus out of its a$$.

Devcon can be used around margins, but it must have iron tie wire in it, such as the stuff used for reinforcement in structural concrete detailing. Nice stuff to loop around, and afterwards the Devcon/JB Weld has gone hard as.

Like most of us here have found, the iron heads are harder than rock, and if it needs any more than hard cardbord gaskets or devcon/jb weld, its probably munted*, um, got cracks or other 'issues'.

*http://www.3news.co.nz/Munted-voted-word-of-the-year-followed-by-nek-minnit/tabid/423/articleID/237056/Default.aspx

We've been using the word 'munted' for years. It's definitely not a new word surfaced since the earthquake. It means damaged or destroyed - a common word you used to describe your old Ford Cortina's



I love the fact that my old stock 63 vintage exhast leaked like He|| on my old C1 head, but once you put a later exhast manifold on it, there is no need for a gasket. Same with putting the 1946 carb on the old non 1946 small opening head. The stock iron is so hard, you just have to pincer it down hard on the bolts, put a little thread sealer on, and your leak free. Just the way the designers made the engine when they drew it up in 1958. A non gasket engine manifold and carb engine, and a reusable gasket cylinder head.
 
I have had very good results with both ultra grey and Red (high-temp) RTVs in this applacation.
Once fully cured I don't see Gas disolving them.
 
Thank you for all your help. I will take it my engine apart Saturday and spend the day trying your ideas. I'll let you know my success.
Thanks again,
Ken
 
I couldn't find or didn't see the Red Permatex so I bought the Ultra Black high temp stuff. I pulled the plate off and cleaned and glued it back together again. Drove the car to the gas station and it seemed to run fine. I'll really know tomorrow driving it to work.
Thanks for your help,
Ken
 
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