All kinda problems

K

kspageddie

Well-known member
Hey gang, I hope you can help. I have a 65 Mustang 200 with a 3sp manual. It is set up with a homebuilt 3 carb set up. I just bought the car and I did not make the set up. As you can image the car runs really rich and it was out of time. I have fixed the timing problem and I am working on an adjustable linkage to bring the carbs in higher in the RPM range. Currently the linkage is not progressive. In an attempt to get the engine to run better I have blocked off the two end carbs. The engine starts up and idles fine however when I place a load on the engine ( place it in gear ) I get a very loud sucking noise and the car will not move and then dies. I have the old Edelbrock valve cover which does not have the PCV hole, so I got an open breather thinking that would help. So, what could be wrong? I am new to the straight six and I am lost. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
HI
Sounds like a vacuum leak ( a big one).. How did you block off the outter carbs?? Take some carb cleanner and spray around all possable vacuum leak areas... (carbs (or the lack there of), vacuum lines and such with the motor running if the RPM's pick up then you have a leak there.
good luck
tim
 
I took a thick piece of gasket paper and placed it under the two end carbs and unhooked the linkage. I also put plugs in the fuel inlets and ran a single fuel line to the center carb.
 
Tonight I am going to switch carbs and see if that helps. I am going to take one of the end carbs that is not in use and see if I get the same giant sucking noise. Keep your fingers crossed.
 
any luck with the other carb??
Maybe run a compression check? (bad valves, rings??)
check it with a vacuum gage?
Spray carb cleanner around it? (checking for leaks)
Not know how the home built 3 carb set up is sealed I would check all over for a vacuum leak. Unless maybe with the carbs running real rich (as you said) it may have washed down the bores and toasted the rings.
Tim
 
If it was running better before you disconnected the out board carbs and readjusted the timingthen I would investigate what you have done since then. I would be suspect of the gaskets under those carbs you disconnected and also that either the float on the center carb may have picked up a bit of trash or that the new timing setting is way off due to out of synch crank pulley or something similar. Perhaps the center carb is so leaned out ( or rich) from the earlier attempts to run 3 carbs in synch that it simply won't respond.
--If it was my sit. i would put everything back to square 1 and start readjusting again but only going 1 step at a time. restarting and seeing how each little change affects it as you go. Quite often on nonprogressive multiple carb setups that are done by the non-talented the balanceing is so far off it is incredible but it was gotten to run halfway decent by having 1 or 2 of the carbs over rich in compensation of the other(s) running way lean. Remember since all cylinders share the log it really wasn't running on 3 separate carbs but more like a 3 barrell with a really wide splayed base.
 
I have checked the timing mark and it is dead on with TDC. I flipped carbs tonite and still have the same issue. I loud sucking noise when I rev the motor past 2000 RPM. The motor has not ran for a few years, however now it will start right up. I have done a compression test over the weekend. All the cylinders with the exception of number 3 were around 120-125. Number three was around 140. I have made new linkage which will be progressive. I am going to run all 3 carbs and go from there. Next week I am going to attempt to rebuild them. Is that a hard thing to do?

Thanks again for all the help.
 
NAW
single barell carb are purity simple. I'm not sure which carbs you have some have a weight with a little ball under it, so when you take the top off and turn the carb upside down watch out for it to come out..

HMMMM 120 TO 125 AND THEN ONE AT 140 :shock: DON'T SOUND RIGHT.

That sucking sound sure sounds like vacuum or a timming issue?? are you sure the timming isn't 180 off?? Not being sarcastic but you do know that the mark on the dampner comes up to "0" twice once on tdc and once on the tdc of the exhaust stroke... Just throwing sticks at (to) the dog.
Tim
 
It would be worth while to see if the ign. advance is working also. real easy- just rev it up with the timing light hooked up and watch the mark moves as it advances. I had a diaphram dry rotted and actually would retard the timing instead of advanc when reving up-- similar symptoms to yours. also look to see if you didn't open a vacumn leak when you removed the throttle linkages i would also make sure that the outboard carb throttle plate are tied closed to reduce the likelyhood of vacumn leaks at their bases.
 
I am going to look at the vacuum advance tonite. Now, about the timing. I took out the number one plug and took off the dizzy cap. The first time the timing mark lined up with the TDC mark the rotor pointed at number 6 with the piston at TDC (i watch the piston come up). The second time around the timing mark was at TDC, the piston at number 1 was all the way up and the rotor lined up at number 1 at the dizzy. Is this not correct? Again, I am new at this motor and thank you all for your help.
 
OK
Put your finger over or in the #1 plug hole and then rotate the motor hold your finger over it tightly and when it starts to push it off or push air past your finger thats the compression stroke and when the dampner comes all the way to tdc the rotor should be pointing to the #1 spot on the dizzy. Each time the dampner points to the TDC mark, both the #1 and the #6 piston well be at TDC only one well be on compression stroke and the other well be on exhaust stroke. You want the #1 to be on the compressiong stroke (that would be when you fee air being pushed past your finger) and the rotor should be pointing to the #1 spot on the dizzy. A lot of people get confused on this so don't feel stuped if you have it wrong..
Tim
 
kspageddie":yh2jnz7u said:
I am going to look at the vacuum advance tonite. Now, about the timing. I took out the number one plug and took off the dizzy cap. The first time the timing mark lined up with the TDC mark the rotor pointed at number 6 with the piston at TDC (i watch the piston come up). The second time around the timing mark was at TDC, the piston at number 1 was all the way up and the rotor lined up at number 1 at the dizzy. Is this not correct? Again, I am new at this motor and thank you all for your help.
Click to expand...

If it was running before and you havn't removed the dizzy then this should be right-If the distri. has been removed it could be 180* off.
i just went out and looked at a 144 that runs excellant and when on the compression stroke at TDC--#1 terminal is basically at 6 o'clock ( terminal closest to the block being 12 O,clock) and the advacne is slightly to the engine side of 3 0'clock(or towards the rear of car). Of course the thing won't run worth a hoot if set at TDC.
Now this little 144 runs extremely well for such a little guy and the settings i use are. 10*-12* BTDC at idle and sliding off the scale as you rev it up. before i replaced the advance valve it would slide off the scale but it was going the wrong way caused by the mechanical parts of the advance being cocked around funny and doing strange things to the points plate. The rotor turns clockwise and the firing order 153624.
 
I have had the dist. out of the car. Now, if the timing is off 180 degrees would the engine run? It fires right up and idles decent. If I am off 180 degrees what would the correct steps be to correct it.
 
Large sucking sound you say? Are there springs in place to hold the outer carbs shut until they are activated? I'm guessing not since the non-progressive set-up was in place. You may be pulling open the butterflies on those carbs under load, hence sucking in way too much air for the one carb to compensate for. I live in cleveland-tow it here and leave it and I'll make sure it is disposed of properly!!!
 
The carb linkage to the two end carbs are currently unhooked and heavy gasket paper is used to block off the airflow coming in. Or at least I thought! I am going to recheck my timing and hook up the two end carbs tonite or Saturday, i have an adjustable linkage that should open the 2 end carbs after 1/2 throttle. Hopefully this will work. Thank you all for your help, you guys ROCK!
 
Could the sucking noise I am hear come from the vacuum advance? I hear the noise under load, maybe the vacuum advance in the distr is bad. If so could i just replace that or would i have a new distr?
 
Maybe your float can't stop the higher fuel pressure you get at 2000 rpm's and your flooding it at 2000 rpm. What would that sound like?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
All Small Six Tri Power Offy - Unfinished
Replies
4
Views
400
powerband
powerband
S
All Small Six Exhaust manifold leaks
Replies
12
Views
621
DON
DON
B
All Small Six 200 inline 6 Camshaft
2 3
Replies
42
Views
2K
wsa111
wsa111
B
All Small Six New alternator help
Replies
17
Views
614
beanmiester
B
F
All Small Six 1962 Falcon - Swapping a 170 for a 200 plus C4
Replies
5
Views
625
FalconDad
F
Back
Top