autolite 1100

[stangman196700]

ok ive been having my car stall out and not running well at all, recently ive had to push down on the gas in order to even keep it on when its in neutral. Today i took my carb apart to see if maybe the passasges were clogged and when i did i noticed that my carb is missing a ball bearing in one of those holes and was wondering if this could be the cause of all my problems?

 

[Anonymous]

There are 3 balls in an automatic 1100 - one at each diaphragm, and one near the center bore that has a little weight that goes on top. You have to get a rebuild kit to get the ball as I don't know of anyone who sells parts individually. My rebuild sheet show's a fourth ball for the distributor near the spark control valve, but that is only used on the 223 or 240 truck six. I'll see if I have one laying around.

S-man

 

[stangman196700]

okay also while im at this subject does anyone have any pics on how the acceleration linkage looks on a stock 200. One of the past owners changed it to a wierd linkage that is poorly done and accelerates crappy. And a pic of how the choke is located would help too.

 

[Anonymous]

that should be a heat choke...do you have the stove pipe?

my carb did same...100 accelerator pump went bad. I still have it and a spare but no clue how to fix the pump...

so I swtiched to a holley....


the onbly hting I liked about the 1100 was teh secondary vacuum...

 

[Anonymous]

hey, I am also using an Autolite 1100 etc and the car will stall if I dont keep my foot on the gas. It seems to me to be a choke problem, the car will idle only when the choke is open one centimeter, otherwise it will stall. I have completely rebuilt the carb recently, and have taken it apart 2 times in the past week to do a thorough cleaning, I have all 3 balls and the weight that goes in the one closest to the venturi. the other to balls are across from each other, next to the dashpots. Any idea what my problem may be??

 

[Anonymous]

hey, I am also using an Autolite 1100 etc and the car will stall if I dont keep my foot on the gas

Is this just when it's cold or all the time? Does it just happen when you come to a stop or let off the gas fast, or will not idle at all? If it stalls when coming to a stop or letting off the gas, the anti-stall dashpot (on the passenger side of the carb) is not adjusted correctly. there is a screw in the middle- the farther you turn it clockwise, the slower the carb returns to idle so it does not stall- a problem only automatics have as far as I know.

Sedanman

 

[Anonymous]

The car will stall when going any speed if I dont have my foot on the gas and if it is not in gear (clutch down or in neutral), and this happens no matter whether it is hot or cold

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HAY EOJACK
Sounds to me like the fuel mixture is off as well as maybe the idle speed setting.
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

Vacuum leak??? Check around carb base, dist. line, trans vacuum line (both ends) and pcv hose.

 

[Anonymous]

I am having the same problem with my 1100. I thought I was out in the cold tonight because suddenly I could barely keep it running. I have recently rebuilt mine as well. I am so glad someone is making mention of the check balls. Mine only had the two pump balls. I am running a 300 six in a 65 F-100 with a 3spd manual overdrive. Does ANYBODY know what the third ball over top the spark control valve does. The one the pics show with some kind of weight on top. Mine didnt have one at all when I put in the kit. I looked inside a rebuilt carb down at the parts store and it had the third ball but no weight. Do I need the ball and/or weight? Its funny my carb does fine in warmer weather. Seems like I run into trouble just after warmup.

It would be great if anybody could explain what that whole check ball/spark control valve thing is about and if it could be the cause of such problems.

As a last resort I gunned the engine and like turning a switch things went back to normal. Drove home as if nothing had ever happened.

Any info is much apreciated!!

 

[Anonymous]

I've seen a rebuilt parts house carb with no weight as well, but that does not go on the check ball near the SCV- it goes on top of the check ball near the throat of the carb. I've no clue as to what it does! Since most of these carbs are interchangeable between differant models, I'm not surprised the rebuilder leaves out little parts that are model- specific, such as the SVC checkball used only on truck engines (according to my 1100 rebuild kit instructions)

S-man

 

[Anonymous]

I think I may have figured my whole thing out. My carb has no ball above the SCV. I dont think that it has the ball and weight at the throat as well. Pump discharge I believe. No wonder the thing acts funny. The possibly missing discharge ball and weight might have caused what I percieved as being a slow leak past the float needle seat. I was getting seepage after stopping.

Now what I mentioned about barely being able to keep it running. I still dont know about that one. It only stalled one other time but never that bad.

I wish someone knew more about the proper setup for the spark control system. As far as I can tell I am running a normal distributor as opposed to the one that is meant to be controlled by the spark controller on the carb. I'm thinking quite possibly the spark control system must be disabled in order to send normal ported vacuum to the distributor. I may have to do some experimenting to see weather or not I need the check ball at the spark control valve. I know I need the others.

By the way I cracked open a reman down at the parts store and those idiots at Champion had the weight in the other hole. The one at at the pump itself. Unless that is some kind of an improvement it is wrong. I just have to believe its a mistake because many times people have to try 2 or 3 carbs to get one that works decent. They also eliminate the idle vent valve and put in a plug.

I'm going to keep trying to get this one right. I have run into other situations similar as this due to past botched repair jobs. I cant see paying someone $89 for a twin to what I have that just has not been screwed with. Plus the fact that they wnt me to give them mine. The way my cynical mind works is thinking this company wants me to pay them $89 for their product and expect me to give them the same product back that needs a $2 repair. I can get a 67 Carter YF reman for $80 with no core. If I lose the Autolite fight I'll move on to Carter I guess....

 

[Anonymous]

To eliminate possible confusion due to different models of the 1100 there are a total of 4 possible balls. The fourth will depend on weather or not the carb is equipped with an anti-stall dashpot (looks like an extra accelerator pump). From what I gather the presence of the SCV ball depends on weather or not the vehicle employs the Loadomatic distributor used in 65-66 trucks.

Correct me if I'm wrong...

 

[Anonymous]

From what I gather the presence of the SCV ball depends on weather or not the vehicle employs the Loadomatic distributor used in 65-66 trucks...

As far as I know, all ford car "small" sixes before 1968 have the loadamatic distributor, so there must be something else differant in the truck engines, unless those indeed did have distributors with mechanical advance. Ask over in the big six forum- they should know.

Thor

 

[Anonymous]

There are 3 balls in an automatic 1100 - one at each diaphragm, and one near the center bore that has a little weight that goes on top. My rebuild sheet show's a fourth ball for the distributor near the spark control valve, but that is only used on the 223 or 240 truck six.S-man

This is why I "gather" that the SCV ball is only used on Loadomatic applications. I think the applications Sedanman mentions are Loadomatic. I wish someone could clarify that proper ported vacuume for a normal point distributor is achieved by removing the ball. I am running what I believe to be a later distributor and I want to make sure the right vacuume is there. I don't even know what this Loadomatic dis. looks like. My unit has some slack in rotor movement and supposedly LM's are rigid.

 

[Anonymous]

I wish someone could clarify that proper ported vacuume for a normal point distributor is achieved by removing the ball..

This I have never heard before. I left the 4th ball according to the instructions since I don't have a truck six, and I'm not getting proper vacuum now- not any at all. I think that is due to a stuck SCV, but when the SCV was working I was getting too much advance with the later distributor I'm running. I'm not sure how to tell the differance visually- you probably have to take the inner plate off to see if there is centrifugal advance below where the points and condenser mount. If not, I'd say it's a loadamatic.

S-man

 

[addo]

The POS-Matic is visually "thinner" than a dual advance dizzy.

 

[Anonymous]

What would it be like to go to manifold vacuum? What would be the lesser of two evils? Loadomatic carb venturi vacuum or maifold vacuum? Somebody on here said that they got better gas mileage with manifold vacuum. Who knows?

I'm pretty sure I have the dual distributor. By the way whats the best timing setting? I figure about 6 deg.

 

[Anonymous]

I just connected the vac. line on my distributor to manifold vacuum and got 40 deg. advance at idle! That is with the non loadamatic, but I doubt it makes a differance.

 

[Anonymous]

I just connected the vac. line on my distributor to manifold vacuum and got 40 deg. advance at idle!

Pardon me if I sound stupid but wouldnt that stall the engine? I know you always set your timing with the vacuum disconnected and when you hook up the vacuum the timing advances a bit. I would not think very much. There should be no need for advance at idle. Something does not add up.....