Back at it, I think, and need help

[mustang652]

Well, I'm finally back to attempting to work on the Offy 3 1bbl system on the '65 small log head after a major delay since late October due to a second bypass operation. Needed to pull the head again and just didn't have the chest strength until this past week to trust doing it and still ended up a little sore. I'm about ready to scrap the whole project and go back to a single carb on a plain head with the larger valves due to the problems. The main problem I'm having right now now is the accelerator. (Still having advance problems with DS II as well) I've redone the arm twice and neither has been worth a crap. Last try has turned out worse then my first try. Getting well less than half throttle. Can any one of you guys give me detailed pictures and instructions on how you set your throttle arm up. The simpler the solution, the better as my budget and my patience has suffered over the past several months. If the solution involves the original arm, I'll need to find a new one as I have rebent and cut the one I have twice.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Do You get full throthle if you unhook it from the linkage to the pedal and just move the linkage conected to the carbs???
Tim

 

[mustang652]

Yes I can get full motion from the linkage when unhooked. My first attempt, I got full motion, but the throw was two long. I had taken the arm rebent the angle to move it out from the head by an inch, then bent the end up about four inched from the end. The result is to pull back on the linkage I end up pulling back and up athe same time and the resistance on the linkage was just to much and very unresponsive. Round 2, I cut the arm off to about 2 inches from where it bends to go behind the engine and bent the end up. Better angle, much less resistance, but does not allow enough rotation on the rod to pull linkage back to go more than a quarter throttle. If I can get a new throttle arm, is there any simple solution to go direct from it to the center linkage..

 

[pedal2themetal45]

might have to bend or twist the rod that goes across the fire wall so it can have more rotation... YOu know grab both ends and twist it,
tim

 

[Stubby]

I would get a large piece of cardboard. Measure all of the pivot points in relation to each other and transfer them to the cardboard. Try to measure the travel and angle of the atachment points and transfer these to the cardboard. Once you get it on a drawing, you can make changes with a pencil.

The different lengths and angles of different linkages will require you to consider and adjust the ratios. You should be able to get it close on paper, then tweek it on the car.

 

[JOHN G]

Mine had the same problem-I ended up having to massage the arm a little bit as well as opening the hole in the firewall a little so the rod could move more. I have gotten a pedal out of a maverick and plan on switching to cable pull when I have a chance. Minor problems in my opinion-not enough to scrap the whole thing-just frustrating!

 

[mustang652]

... ended up having to massage the arm a little bit as well as opening the hole in the firewall a little so the rod could move more...

Thanks, I think that's what I'm goin to have to do. First step is to find a new throttle arm for an A/T as mine is now beyond salvage after the last attempt to modify. Cable would probably be ultimately the better operation, but I haven't a clue on how to configukre one.

 

[HighVolkage]

Cable would probably be ultimately the better operation, but I haven't a clue on how to configukre one.

Just go cable, it will save you a lot of trouble. Its really as simple as bolting the new pedal into the floor, drilling a hole for the cable sleeve, and then finding/making a bracket to mount on the shock tower brace. and with most (at least the 2 that i've had, first was a cheap summit unit, don't buy summit brand if youre going to do this, i'd go with lokar) you can adjust how much throw you get on your pedal.

good luck

 

[JOHN G]

With the tripower, you'll have to mount the bracket on the stud for the carb closest to the firewall. Summit sells brackets that can easily be modified to fit the bill. You can use a Lokar universal cable or construct your own. I got a cable for a tandem bicycle brake which is pretty thick and long. I have to construct a kickdown bracket yet before I install everything.

 

[mustang652]

Anybody got any detailed pictures that I can use as a guide.

 

[HighVolkage]

i can take some pics of my cable linkage later today as long as i dont forget

 

[mustang652]

The old philophy, a pictrue is worth a thouand words, Thanks, that wold be appreciate. I'll PM you my email address