Pedal2 has obviously removed his fan first. No socket wrench will work from above with the fan installed, or he is working with the engine removed from the car.
I have done some more work and will report here. Since I don't have 3 arms, and a remote starter wouldn't do any good because it will NEVER STOP at cylinder 1 compression, I got creative. I got a 3" or 4" pipe from the hardware store with the same thread as a spark plug. Not a perfect solution because pipe thread is variable diameter. The last few threads are a wide enough diameter to fit into the spark plug hole though. I put a small balloon around the other end. The balloon must fit tight, and must go beyond the thread onto the smooth surface of the pipe. This insured that I would see the balloon expand as cylinder 1 got compression. This is not a perfect solution, because I did not remove my fan, and as the fan blades turn with wrench movement, I can only turn the crank about a 1/4" with each wrench thrust before a fan blade hits the wrench or my arm. Then I have to turn the fan until it is not binding, and move the wrench again. I didn't know if this would work, but was glad to see the balloon fill with air briefly with each thrust of the wrench when it got near the firing point. I then knew I was at least in the ballpark. This allowed me to position the distributor in the hole where the rotor would be pointed perpendicular to the fender . I couldn't do it at first, but I happen to notice the oil pump shaft was loose. I pulled it out, stuck it in the distributor, and then put the dist in the hole where the no. 1 plug matched the rotor. As it ends up, the pulley notch does not line up with TDC. In fact, it is nowhere to be found. So the pulley CAN be put on wrong.
I am now able to start the car, but it must have more serious problems than I thought, because it is running so rough. Carb and fuel delivery is good because when I punch the gas, the engine runs faster. Electrical has not been checked with a voltmeter, but I put new terminals on each wire in the ignition system while making sure no wires were partially cut. Oil pressure is perfect (pressure gauge was added). Everything is new: carb, fuel pump, gas tank, all gas lines, dist, coil, spark plugs (gapped), spark plug wires, ignition relay, battery, battery cables, etc.
This has now gone beyond my capability, and I will have to find a real mechanic to sort this out. This is the end of this post. Thanks for all your posts, they were very helpful. It could be the engine rebuild is no good. I will not mention the name of the business here. I'm sure they have done other work that is good. The engine acts just like the timing marks were not aligned, or possibly a tooth has broken and the chain has jumped. It's just a case of Bad Timing.