Im looking to build a 200 six for my 66 mustang, Im looking for input, I dont race but want something with a little muscle. Ive been looking around and so far Ive found the valves need to be bigger, I think 1.74 intake and 1.50 exhaust, does head need shaved and how much, what kind of cam, what type of piston, I was figuring on a webber 5200 2 barrel carb, duel headers, what type of rocker, Im not looking to break the bank, but want to give this pony some ponies, how much HP can I get out without getting crazy, anything else I need Thanks
beefing up a 200 six
- Thread starter GVMustang
- Start date
8) i generally prefer either flattop or slightly dished pistons, and since you are not looking for a ton of power, cast replacement pistons will do nicely. classicinlines sells a nice set for a reasonable price. for valves 1.75in/1.50ex is an excellent combination for the street. as for other head work, if you want to do it yourself, take a grinding stone used for porting heads and clean up the valve bowls by getting rid of casting flash and blending walls as smoothly as possible, and thinning out the valve guides. more than that and i suggest that you send the head to classicinlines for their street package. money well spent. as for a cam, pick one that works in the 1500-5000 rpm range, 110 lobe separation for a manual trans, 112 degrees for an automatic trans. the best thing is direct mounting the weber carb with the proper adapter. add a good electronic ignition and a little tuning, and you should be able to make between 150 and 175hp.
Honestly, unless you want big power, I would save the money on pistons. Stock will work for quite a while, and will save money and time in assembly.
Otherwise, I agree with rbohm.
Money wise, well placed $1500-2000 will net you around 140 RWHP, or there abouts. That is just engine performance. That doesn't include other upgrades that should accompany that, such as a better transmission (if you have a 2.77 3 speed, 140 RWHP will chew it up fast), better brakes, rear end, etc.
Otherwise, I agree with rbohm.
Money wise, well placed $1500-2000 will net you around 140 RWHP, or there abouts. That is just engine performance. That doesn't include other upgrades that should accompany that, such as a better transmission (if you have a 2.77 3 speed, 140 RWHP will chew it up fast), better brakes, rear end, etc.
66shelby
Well-known member
I'm doing a rebuild on my 250 right now, and it brought me back to this site after a long period of spotty lurking. This was one of the first forums I ever visited, and all others since have been judged by that initial impression.
When I saw GV's first post, I thought he voiced his thought's very well. A lot of other site's would have flamed him, sent him to the FAQ's, told him to search, etc. I just saw a response that mirrored exactly what I am doing, and everyone knows that the measure of another man's intelligence is how much he agrees with you!
One thing I would add would, especially if this is your first engine, is a manual and a list of tools starting with a decent torque wrench.
When I saw GV's first post, I thought he voiced his thought's very well. A lot of other site's would have flamed him, sent him to the FAQ's, told him to search, etc. I just saw a response that mirrored exactly what I am doing, and everyone knows that the measure of another man's intelligence is how much he agrees with you!
One thing I would add would, especially if this is your first engine, is a manual and a list of tools starting with a decent torque wrench.
Thanks for all the input, now at least I have a direction to go. I plan on doing this over the next year so I can put a little at a time in it. what about rockers and lifters, Im under the impression that the 200 doesnt have adjustable ones I havent had it apart yet. I did read somewhere that the 170 had adjustable rockers, should or could I use rockers from a 170 or just stick with the one from the 200. roller rockers are out of my budget
Howdy GVM:
"I'm looking to build a 200 six for my 66 mustang". I'm not clear. Are you going to rebuild the engine that is in your '66? Or find a core?
To answer some of your questions, All engines built with a solid lifter/non-hydraulic type cam had adjustible rockers. Adjustible rockers were used on almost all engines built prior to 1964- That included 144, 170 and 200s. Many 1965 engines came with adjustible rockers even if the engine had hydraulic lifters. FoMoCo had a policy of using up old stock regardless of the model year. So, Yes, adjustible rocker arms and pushrods from early 170s and 200s can be used on later 200s as an easy way to compensate for wear, machining and tolerance changes in the rebuilding process as well as a way to maximize the cams timing. Note- adjustible rocker arms require the correct pushrods as well.
IF you were to start with a later 200 core to rebuild you would gain the use of your current engine and car until it is swap time. You could also start with the head alone, as a first project. A '77 and later head will have larger intake valves @ 1.75", hardened seats, a larger carb hole diameter and larger intake tract volume. These items will either save you time and money, or improve performance potential. The down side is the later heads is an increase in combustion chamber cc from 52 on your stock OEM head to 62 on the later head. That change dropped CR from 9.2:1 in '66 to 8:1 From '74 on. Milling can allow you to regain CR to your goal. What is your CR goal? You will want more than 8:1 for economy and performance.
On the carb, the H/W is a good choice and many on this forum have led the way in using them. I like to suggest an Autolite 2100 in either a 1.02 or 1.14 size as an alternative. They are the simplist carb ever, very durable and inexpensive if you are willing to shop and do your own rebuild. They adapt to direct mounting easily and have correct orientation to the crankshaft.
Wiht the info you've received, I'd suggest that the next thing for you to do is to set down and write a plan, with a budget. Once you have it, share it here for refining. Be prepared for at least two of Murphy's laws- "what ever it costs, it will cost more", and "how ever long it takes, it will take longer". And, I don't know who to atribute this one to, but "As always, the devil is in the details". Just remember to enjoy the journey and to take notes and keep them.
Adios, David
"I'm looking to build a 200 six for my 66 mustang". I'm not clear. Are you going to rebuild the engine that is in your '66? Or find a core?
To answer some of your questions, All engines built with a solid lifter/non-hydraulic type cam had adjustible rockers. Adjustible rockers were used on almost all engines built prior to 1964- That included 144, 170 and 200s. Many 1965 engines came with adjustible rockers even if the engine had hydraulic lifters. FoMoCo had a policy of using up old stock regardless of the model year. So, Yes, adjustible rocker arms and pushrods from early 170s and 200s can be used on later 200s as an easy way to compensate for wear, machining and tolerance changes in the rebuilding process as well as a way to maximize the cams timing. Note- adjustible rocker arms require the correct pushrods as well.
IF you were to start with a later 200 core to rebuild you would gain the use of your current engine and car until it is swap time. You could also start with the head alone, as a first project. A '77 and later head will have larger intake valves @ 1.75", hardened seats, a larger carb hole diameter and larger intake tract volume. These items will either save you time and money, or improve performance potential. The down side is the later heads is an increase in combustion chamber cc from 52 on your stock OEM head to 62 on the later head. That change dropped CR from 9.2:1 in '66 to 8:1 From '74 on. Milling can allow you to regain CR to your goal. What is your CR goal? You will want more than 8:1 for economy and performance.
On the carb, the H/W is a good choice and many on this forum have led the way in using them. I like to suggest an Autolite 2100 in either a 1.02 or 1.14 size as an alternative. They are the simplist carb ever, very durable and inexpensive if you are willing to shop and do your own rebuild. They adapt to direct mounting easily and have correct orientation to the crankshaft.
Wiht the info you've received, I'd suggest that the next thing for you to do is to set down and write a plan, with a budget. Once you have it, share it here for refining. Be prepared for at least two of Murphy's laws- "what ever it costs, it will cost more", and "how ever long it takes, it will take longer". And, I don't know who to atribute this one to, but "As always, the devil is in the details". Just remember to enjoy the journey and to take notes and keep them.
Adios, David
I do have an extra engine that is a 66 which is the one Im going to build, so I can still cruise the car while Im working on the engine , I plan a rebuild, Ill know more of what Im getting into as I tear it apart, I dont know how many miles the engine has on it, Ill keep you guys posted you have all been a great help, Im no motorhead, but I want to learn and enjoy the journey
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