Boat update, we put the new engine in on the weekend

[Anonymous]

Another update: over the weekend we swapped the sump (after getting it repaired) onto the new (crossflow) block, got the dog gear on the crank nose (THANKS for the tips for putting it in the oven whoever told me to do that!), and dropped it into the boat. I was amazed at how bolt-for-bolt everything fitted, from pre-crossflow to crossflow.
Ive even started it and it seems to idle alright! sensational.

Couple of questions to take it from here:
* Where would i get a carb wedge (i'm running the standard weber) to suit? Or could i make one ?

* And what to do with the fuel return line? Shall i just shove the old fuel pump from the old engine on, or can i just block it off, or can i put a tee into the fuel line just before the pump and piping it to that.

I like the idea of using a tee, does anyone see any drawbacks?

And here's a photo of the new engine sitting nicely in there:

 

[addo]

You even look like Hills boys (I went to Ruse, so know a good few).

I'd suggest an engine mob I use for stuff, to see if they can plane the carb pad with their gear. C&B in Seven Hills, off Powers Road: 9674 6989.

You can refit the old pump. A vapour separator inline filter won't hurt, though, nor will a return from pump to tank. These features are most use when things are warm.

 

[L6]

Another update: over the weekend we swapped the sump (after getting it repaired) onto the new (crossflow) block, got the dog gear on the crank nose (THANKS for the tips for putting it in the oven whoever told me to do that!), and dropped it into the boat. I was amazed at how bolt-for-bolt everything fitted, from pre-crossflow to crossflow.
Ive even started it and it seems to idle alright! sensational.

That is great, I have been wondering how it was progressing.

* Where would i get a carb wedge (i'm running the standard weber) to suit? Or could i make one ?

Rolco have wedges for a wide range of carbs, I would be surprised if they were not able to help you.

 

[L6]

Couple of questions to take it from here:
* Where would i get a carb wedge (i'm running the standard weber) to suit? Or could i make one ?

Check your PM

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the tips. I'll try to run a return line to the tank, and i'll get a carb wedge when i decide i need one (i think it'll be one of those things that gets done a couple months down the track).

Alright ! the weekend is here!!
I'll have some more progress for you on monday

 

[Vaughano]

It's the weekend? I better knock off then...

 

[Anonymous]

Okay... i managed to get the welsh plug off the flywheel end of the head - that is going to be my coolant (river water) outlet. I need to find something i can screw in to replace it, with a fitting i can connect a coolant hose to.
So... for testing...
I pumped water into the engine, and instead of coming out the newly-removed welsh plug, it came out of two holes in the head, up the timing end on the intake/passenger side.
I'm guessing these holes are usually piped to the inlet manifold to warm it up to help with cold mornings, right?
Anyone know what thread they are, so i can plug them?

 

[addo]

They will be NPT almost definitely. You can get NPT plugs and fittings usually at Gasweld Blacktown, or Earl's in Silverwater.

 

[Anonymous]

Oh sh...oot!
I was at gasweld (castle hill) earlier today. Darn! Time to make a return trip.

 

[Anonymous]

Hey - will i get galvanic corrosion if i screw in a brass fitting, between it and the alloy head or the cast iron block?

I've been reading:
http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

Which also brings the point up - what would happen if i put a zinc anode inside the cooling system somewhere, grounded to the engine - would that protect the engine long-term from corrosion?

 

[addo]

Maybe it would corrode if you used brass! Earls are generally quite dear - but their anodised stuff is the goods.

 

[Anonymous]

Are you saying that brass is bad? What should i use then?

 

[addo]

Well, you want to screw it into the head, right? The head's alloy, so if you use an aluminium based fitting, it shouldn't react with the parent thread.

Sacrificial anodes can help; if you electrically isolate the radiator that is also a good move.

Using the correct coolant for your application is paramount. Call Nulon and ask one of the techs what they think. Some pretty smart and honest guys (one told me I could dilute the additive to 50% of what Nulon suggested, for no loss of benefit)...

 

[Anonymous]

You seem to be forgetting: this is a boat - the coolant is the river!

River water gets sucked up under the boat, pumped through the exhaust manifold to warm it up, then into the plate which is where the waterpump was, through the engine, out the head, and spat out the exhaust.

 

[addo]

I thought you had a heat exchanger cooling system. You will get closer to steady-state operation with one. In an aluminium head, for your sitcheration, aluminium fittings would probably be less inclined to give grief. In the block I might be tempted to use brass.

 

[Anonymous]

Well, i might change to aluminium fittings later on then.
But for the moment, here's my effort, concocted from parts from bunnings:



Top right is the new concoction. Bottom off the tee screws into the head, right is the temp sender, left is where the river water gets spat out.
Bottom is the small plug that i had to remove from the head.
Left is the old welsh plug concoction from the old motor.

 

[addo]

Much plumbing stuff is BSPT. Especially that you'll find in Bunnings. It's not the same as NPT (typically one extra thread per inch in major diameters under 1") and you face quite possible leakages.

There's also the probability of a "dead leg" in your sensor placement. It needs to be immersed in the flow.

 

[Anonymous]

Jeez you're knowledgeable. One extra thread per inch? Well, so long as it holds in tight, there's nothing that teflon tape cannot fix. I can live with it not being perfect.
As for the "dead leg"... you're right, its not the best. My next idea is to get a 3/4" plug, drill a hole, tap it, and bolt the sensor straight into that, and bolt that straight into the side of the tee, rather than the three bushings. But again, i can live with it being dodgy until that happens.

 

[Vaughano]

After having to drill out alloy fittings and retap, I now always use brass. They don't seem to corrode and crumble like the alloy.

But then, I always use coolant too, so maybe the situation is different with river water. But I'd reckon it would just make the alloy corrode that much quicker.

It may be all academic, the head will probably go first...

 

[jamyers]

If that's a trailer boat (nice looker, by the way!), then I wouldn't worry about galvanic corrosion, since it'll only be wet while the boat is running.

Even if it's going to sit in water for extended times, I'd think that brass (or better yet, bronze) would last far longer than an anodized alloy part.

My '62 Chris-Craft Skiboat came from the factory with bronze, brass, and plain iron fittings screwed into the cast iron engine, and it's never been an issue (that I know of...)