Can you identify a 250 block just by the casting #'s?

Eric Rose

Famous Member
Hello all

The 200 that was in my '62 Falcon when I bought it took a dump on me several months ago. The rods are knocking and the headgasket is blown, probably more damage I I haven't even seen yet.

My uncle donated another six cylinder that has sat disassembled in his shop for at least 10 years. If I use this engine I will have a full rebuild done on it. I just don't know if its a 200 or a 250. I'll post the casting numbers when I get home. I just wrote down the casting numbers, I didn't think to count the bellhousing bolts or measure the deck height or anything. :roll:

I know that modifications are necessary to get the 250 motor mounts onto the early style framerails. I have never seen a roundbody with a 250 and I've been lurking here and on FordMuscle for a few months. So I'd like to know what frame mods I will need to do to get a 250 to clear under my hood. :)

I'm still dabating whether or not I want to go get a V8. I like the parts availibility for a V8... if I need a water pump or whatever, the parts store has it on the shelf. But I'm pretty sure I won't like the gas mileage, which is why I'm so torn between the six and the 8.

My car was swapped from a 3 on the tree to a C4 by a previous owner, so the trans won't be an issue (just need to get a beefier C4).

Also, has anybody used Classic Inlines' adapter for the big Holley/autolite 2 barrel? Does it clock the carb with the fuel bowl facing forward or to the side?

carbadaptBmed.jpg
 
8) if the water pump uses 4 bolts to hold it in place then you have the 250 block. also look at the bellhousing bolt pattern, if it is a 6 bolt pattern like the small block ford, then you have the 250. if a 3 bolt water pump, then you have one of the smaller sixes.
 
Is the 250 the better of the two motors? I don't see as many performance parts for the 250 as the 200, but it seems like with the better rod ratio that the 250 would be the best platform to start with. Does the extra weight of the 250 cancel out the extra power?

I read somewhere that it's best to use Maverick motor mounts, and that I will need to re-drill the frame for them. I am sure I will be able to get the Maverick frame mounts (I think this motor came from a Mav actually). Would drilling the frame for new mounts weaken it to the point where it needs to be reinforced?

Thanks for all the help... I'm hoping to get started with this project really soon. :banana: :D
 
Judging by pictures posted of the car and downtime to date, the easiest thing is to look for another 170 or 200, as suggested elsewhere.

Fitting a 250 is not so common, but it's been done enough times that there are established ways to make it work. However, until some basic considerations are taken care of (such as deck height) it can be a slug.

It's pretty uncommon for a 200 to fail really badly. I'd suspect the one presently in there is quite saveable, so it may be worth looking at while another motor is fited to keep the car moving. A project that isn't mobile stagnates very fast.
 
falconbearings007.jpg


falconbearings004.jpg


c9head004.jpg


c9head.jpg


erose999


I've been inside that engine one time before. I replaced those bearings (which were .std) with new std ones and also replaced the lifters, oil pump, the head gasket (head was milled flat) and repaired the oil pan, water neck etc.

About 200 miles into those repairs, the head gasket blew and the rod knock returned. :?

The fabrication required for the 250 swap doesn't scare me too badly... here's the crossmember I made for the transmission. We'll start with the "before" photo. as you can see, the stock bracket for the 3 speed is just wedged in by what used to be the metal support for the C-4's rubber mount::

erose999


newcrossmember.jpg


Mostly finished...
macawk005.jpg


Bad pic of the test fit. It's hard to get a good pic under the car. :lol:
macawk004.jpg


I finished the part and it worked great.

Oh, and the #'s from that block are:

D8DE (or D8LE) the third # was hard to read
6015
- CA

The numbers on this one were above the dipstick tube.
 
Back
Top