car stalls at stoplight

[plastic-idol]

My 200's been stalling if I sit in drive at a stoplight for more that about 30 sec. If I shift into part or neutral it's fine, just in drive. The motor's all stock with a new electrical system. I'm wondering if my choke's sticking.

 

[ludwig]

I had the same thing going on. It would buck once or twice and die. Also, sometimes when I stopped short, the engine just killed.
I put a new (rebuilt) Pony Carburetor Autolite 1100 on it. The idle was high out of the box, but the choke pulloff worked right and everything. I fooled with the timing and leaned out the air mix. It started revving real high, so I backed the idle off to 700 RPM in neutral then put it in drive. Boom, dead. So I backed out the fuel/air mix some and ran the idle up to 800 or so and it works fine now. EXCEPT now the choke doesn't close automatically and opens right up when I crank it if I close the flap manually. The car starts hard but runs fine once it is warm.
I'd say raise the idle a tad.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

You need to set the idle speed and mixture with the car in drive.

 

[wsa111]

first thing to check is the carburetor flooding to cause the stall or do you have a vacuum leak?? if the carburetor checks ok,check the voltage at the primary side of the coil. if you have the pertronix II system make sure you have full battery voltage at the coil. check their website www.pertronix.com for their diagagnosis chart. i sent back their ignitor II because of idle problems. it would idle rough then stall. i even ran a bypass wire from the hot side of the ignition switch to the wire before it went to the coil under the dash, this helped but did not cure the problem. i then reinstalled the original pertronix ignitor & have had no problems since. the bypass is like a heart by pass. pull out the ignition switch,remove the hot wire on run condition,spread the connector & solder a wire in that connector,reinsert connector back into switch connector & tap into wire before wire leading to coil before it goes through firewall.
this worked for me, any questions feel free to e mail me.
one x-factor do you have a radial cam??? if so you may have to drill a .060 to .090 hole in the butteryfly blade between the throttle shaft & the idle port side of the bore. this will allow the throttle blade to close just like a stock camshaft position. this will allow the throttle blade to fully use the transfer slot in the throttle bore at idle & afer light acceration. hope this helps. wsa111

 

[Anonymous]

when this happend to me, it was the float in the carb...simple replace...