Carb/head fit problem... HELP!!!

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:lol: Hi! I'm new to the Ford Six performance, however, I do realize the potential of the straight six. I have some questions for anybody who can answer them, but mainly dealing with the heads. I have a 1964 Fairlane with a 170ci, however, upon pulling it all apart to rebuild, I have found that the head is cracked. I pulled a junker head that is in good shape. It's code is: D8BE - 6090 - BA. I think it's off a 78' 250. What should I know to avoid any problems when using this head/block combination?
Additionally the bolt pattern on the autolite carb is smaller than the bolt pattern on the head. Suggestions for that? is there an adapter that I could use?
any and all info would be great!
Thanks!
- Adam...
 
HAY ADAM
The head well have to be milled down to work right if it is a 250 as it has a bigger volume that the 170.. Yes it well bolt up but you well lose a lot of compression and it well run like a sloth... LOL... :lol: if its not milled to acheve the right compression.. I would take both of them to a machinest and have the 170 cc'ed and the 250 cc'ed then milled to match..
You well have to use the adapter off the other head (the 170) for the carb or get a different one from Clifford parts to make your carb work..
hope this helps
tim
 
Howdy Adam:

Let me repeat Tim's advice-read the sticky at the top of this forum on "Head Swaps". In a nutshell, the D8 head offers you some real advantages, and only a few pitfalls, that can be dealt with.

Know the the D8 200/250 head has larger intake valves, larger intake tract volume, hardened valve seats and a 1.75" carb hole.

The pitfalls are-
*that the combustion chambers are aproximately 62 ccs, whereas, your '64 170 head will be about 52 ccs. To maintain stock compression ratio you will need to have the D8 head milled aproximately .050" to reduce the chamber volumes, and another .025 to compensate for the thicker composite replacement head gasket. When you mill a head this much you will need to use hardened washers on the head bolts to ensure that the head bolts do not bottom themselves out in their holes.
Tim's advice on measureing and comparing volumes is a good idea.
*Your '64 170 uses an Autolite 1100 with a SCV (another stickie, look up) to be compatible with the stock Load-a-Matic (another stickie) distributor. The D8 head uses a completly different carb, a Carter YF, with a cable throttle linkage system. The differences will be the width of the carb bolt spacing and flange, and the adapter, between the manifold and the carb. You will likely need to fabricate, or adapt an adapter to be able to use your stock 1100. The simplest solution might be to slot the mounting holes on the carb, to match the D8 studs.
Or, you could step up to a Carter YF for the D8, and then adapt linkage or convert to a cable system. The YF is not compatible with your stock distributor as it has no SCV. If you have a C4 block, your choices of distributors are limited.

While you're having the D8 milled, consider the additional expense of a three angle valve job, and having the intake valves backcut. Adding new valve stem seals now is cheap insurance.

These changes will make a difference you will feel. Keep us posted on what you decide and keep the questions coming.

Adios, David
 
HOORAY!!! Um, thanks so far. At this point, I'm just having the head rebuilt, and I'm looking for a good machinist in my area to take care of the milling.
For my Carb prob, I actually found an adapter plate that fits the 200/250 head, and JBwelded them (170 base plate+ 200/250 base plate) together with a gasket in the middle, and cut off the excess. I leak tested it and it seems fine. it's kind of a frankenstein thing, but hey... it works.
Additionally in the rebuild, I noticed the piston size they used was 4.0 instead of the stock 3.5. Is this because they milled the piston size .50 over? and is this good? or bad?
Thanks for all your help so far.... Helping me alot. I think I'm going to go with milling to match.
Until next time gents! :D
 
Seriously, no way could you have jumped half an inch in bore size. 3½" bores are 170/144 motors. 200 and 250 are 3.68", 240/300 big sixes are 4" to begin with. Maybe plus 40 thou? That would possibly see a "40" stamped on the piston top.

Don't forget, when you you do your compression ratio calculations, this has to be accurately figured in.
 
:oops: heh, that would make more sense... so what should I put in the calculator as a bore size? Cause I do now know that it was a .400 on the piston top. thanks for the info once again...
 
Augh... I put everything in the compression calculator and came up with about 7.5:1 compression... :? and 93 Hp. wonnnnnddderrrrful.... time to take everything to the machinist. (UNLESS!! i was gonna turbo it, but not really... so eh..) Thanks though! :wink:
 
Whoops. 170 you said, not 200. :oops:

3.500 standard bore. 3.540 with 40 thou oversize.

Not 3.72 - sorry about that!
 
Hooray!!!
Alright - To keep you updated, I've decided to have the head and the block cc'd then milled to match, I'm not sure of the numbers yet, but as my lack of compression is daunting, I'll probably go with milling the head .70, using the .038 Gasket from FSPP, and finishing with a three angle valve job, cause after all... I now have the hardened valve seats! (D8BE) But additionally while the head is off, I'll buy the port divider and headers.

But about the sputtering and problems with knocking and pinging...

I've discovered the problem!
It seems that after sitting for 27 years, Fairlane Rusto special had some hardened crub buildup in the Distributor... after taking it all apart, I found the vaccuum bellow to be broken, and the springs to be horribly stretched.
Extra advance anyone? :lol:
SO! I'll post more with my results tomorrow, but Addo!! thanks so much for the info about the Duraspark II... I'll be gravedigging for one probably starting next week.
 
annnnd with that note, where can I find distributor springs??? Napa and star don't have numbers or anything for them... :cry:
 
New springs are way better than old. You want an accurate starting point!

A good timing light is essential to make use of the springs...
 
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