CI dual out header
- Thread starter Patrick66
- Start date
pedal2themetal45
Famous Member
I searched swap meets for a year before I found a header there, got it for $50.oo un used... but I knew I couldn't aford a new one...
tim
tim
I have a clifford and it's pretty good.
Junk-Falcon
Well-known member
Dual exhaust is heavier and offers no added performance.I've got the dual outs merged into a y and then feeding a single 2..25" turbo muffler. Theatrical flamboyance aside, I'd get a pre-bent dual out kit next time. Probably a dynomax or something similar with good pricing and decent quality. 2" would likely be be ideal. Why? because it would look cool, sound thumpy, and it wouldn't hurt in any way. Plus, I'd be confident the bottleneck in my system wasn't in the exhaust.
I really don't consider it overkill, either. On a typical 1.6 liter honda engine with a header, intake and a cam, you run a 2.25" exhaust for best all around powerband - although most young guys seem to favor the giant fartcans these days :roll: . I know the honda is making considerably more power per liter than our sixes are, but by logical extension, an engine twice the size could make use of twice the exhaust, no?
I really don't consider it overkill, either. On a typical 1.6 liter honda engine with a header, intake and a cam, you run a 2.25" exhaust for best all around powerband - although most young guys seem to favor the giant fartcans these days :roll: . I know the honda is making considerably more power per liter than our sixes are, but by logical extension, an engine twice the size could make use of twice the exhaust, no?
Patrick66
Famous Member
falcon fanatic":3u6mujuz said:
i was gonna go with 2" duals and turbo mufflers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965...002QQitemZ120171626112QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
what do you guys think of this ^ its cheap and i think itll work
im a young guy and i dont really like the fart cans, but to each his own.
im not really going for the best performance possible, im just doing a few modifications to make a cool daily driver (dual exhaust + 2v carb and DSII, thats about it).
Ian, when i worked at a lexus dealer, there inline six cylinder engines had dual outlet headers into a single pipe close to an X pipe then to dual exhausts.
Do you think they would spend money on an exhaust that did not produce the most power & economy.
I think BMW & Mercedes Have similiar systems.
Why would they use duals if it did't help???
Can't prove i'm right but can you prove i'm wrong. Bill
Do you think they would spend money on an exhaust that did not produce the most power & economy.
I think BMW & Mercedes Have similiar systems.
Why would they use duals if it did't help???
Can't prove i'm right but can you prove i'm wrong. Bill
wsa111":20nbb21i said:
No.
But our 6 cyls aren't some highly-engineered high-strung engine, either.
You can probably, with a good understanding of fluid dynamics and a lot of dyno time, prove one way or another whether dual exhaust or single exhaust makes more power (in a specific rpm range) for a specific engine combination. There are a lot of 2nd and third order effects that come into play here.
What I am saying is that, on a street car w/o this level of engineering invested - the system that makes the most sense is one that delivers the lowest back pressure for the least weight, complexity, and money.
For an engine that has all of it's exhaust ports on the same side, that's a single exhaust that runs strait down that side and out the back.
That's all. My single 2.5" exhaust cost me less than 50$ to build, and flows plenty for even my turbocharged engine. Id rather take the extra 100+ it would have cost to rig up some sorta dual system (not to mention the weight, time, and everything else involved) and invest that into some other area of the car. That's where my motivation comes from. Besides, I don't have V8 envy. In fact, my V8 camaro has single exhaust.
.
I've heard single outs that sound great, and dual outs that sound great. So I don't think it matters one way or the other. Dual outs just look better in my opinion. On my 67 I used a dual out header, y-pipe, single 2.25 pipe, single in - dual out mufler, and twin stainless GT tips. Sounds great, cheaper than true duals, easy to install, but still looks like duals.
The money you save on the exhaust system can be used to purchase a quality header. I could offer cheaper headers, if I wanted to offer what everyone else does, but I decided to concentrate on quality rather than cost.
Most companies offer black headers, but you need to be carefull as some are painted with a water based paint, which will burn off in short order. Those that are painted with high temp spray are better, but will still rust out in a few years. That's why I choose to go with a high temp powder coat this time. Yes it cost more to have them powder coated, but they will maintain their appearance a lot longer than spray painted. Plus they are more resistant to chemical spills.
Then there's ceramic coated, which is the best hands down. If you can afford ceramic coated headers, do it. You won't be sorry, as its worth every penny. Again, you need to be carefull, as some ceramic coaters only do the outside of the header. Jet-Hot does them inside and out. If you order a ceramic coated header, look to see if its coated on the inside. If it isn't, then it wasn't coated by Jet-Hot (hint).
I also pay more to have headers made to my specs, or to import them from Australia. Most headers are welded on the inside, and spot welded on the outside. CI & Pacemaker headers are fully welded inside and out. There's a couple advantages to doing this, less chance of pin holes, and if the headers ever warp they can be surface milled without loosing any strenght. CI and Pacemaker also split the third and fourth ports by 3/8 of an inch, instead of welding them up side by side, which helps prevent blown header gaskets. And last but not least, you can remove the starter without taking the header off, which is not the case with other headers.
All headers are not created equal.
The money you save on the exhaust system can be used to purchase a quality header. I could offer cheaper headers, if I wanted to offer what everyone else does, but I decided to concentrate on quality rather than cost.
Most companies offer black headers, but you need to be carefull as some are painted with a water based paint, which will burn off in short order. Those that are painted with high temp spray are better, but will still rust out in a few years. That's why I choose to go with a high temp powder coat this time. Yes it cost more to have them powder coated, but they will maintain their appearance a lot longer than spray painted. Plus they are more resistant to chemical spills.
Then there's ceramic coated, which is the best hands down. If you can afford ceramic coated headers, do it. You won't be sorry, as its worth every penny. Again, you need to be carefull, as some ceramic coaters only do the outside of the header. Jet-Hot does them inside and out. If you order a ceramic coated header, look to see if its coated on the inside. If it isn't, then it wasn't coated by Jet-Hot (hint).
I also pay more to have headers made to my specs, or to import them from Australia. Most headers are welded on the inside, and spot welded on the outside. CI & Pacemaker headers are fully welded inside and out. There's a couple advantages to doing this, less chance of pin holes, and if the headers ever warp they can be surface milled without loosing any strenght. CI and Pacemaker also split the third and fourth ports by 3/8 of an inch, instead of welding them up side by side, which helps prevent blown header gaskets. And last but not least, you can remove the starter without taking the header off, which is not the case with other headers.
All headers are not created equal.
