Click when turning ignition switch on?

[Canary94GT]

jamyers, I plan to hook up my MSD 6A box, but I was waiting until I could get the car running again first. Is that what you mean by electronic ignition, or do you mean like points also?

 

[Explorer]

Fix the problem you already have first. The MSD box will only confuse things more and a good possibility of frying it too. You should have no voltage to starter side of relay once it starts, if you do the relay is bad, or ignition switch problems. Once engine starts and key released you will lose voltage to the S term.

 

[jamyers]

I mean pretty much anything other than points, especially an MSD box. Explorer is right, you don't want to add another variable into the ongoing issue.

 

[Mercury Mike]

I think you really need to recheck all of your wiring throughout your whole ignition system. I would put all my eggs in that basket as far as your problems go. You're throwing parts at it, not diagnosing or trying to repair what's there. I would bet your solenoid is fine, if you're hearing a click it's working properly most likely. If the problem is that you have to tap it with a screwdriver to start it, and that the starter stays engaged once the key is in on, I would say that your S and I terminals are probably swapped. Have you swapped them backwards and tried to start it? Go back to the basics with this one!

 

[Canary94GT]

Yes, I have tried swapping the two S and I wires and when I did that I got some weird noises, a large spark, and white smoke out of the oil breather cap.

My ignition switch probably needs to be replaced anyway since I can't turn it to accessory, so that's not really "throwing parts at it" Ok maybe the starter and voltage regulator were throwing parts at it, but changing one or both of those made me able to start the car, so something was wrong there.

 

[Explorer]

That would be a good move, you already know that's bad. I missed your other post about the switch.

 

[Canary94GT]

Ignition switch replaced, so I'll get a new lock cylinder tomorrow and see how it goes.

 

[Canary94GT]

Replaced the lock cylinder, and I'm back to "CLICK" again.

I guess I'll have to get an electrician because I don't know how to search for electrical problems.

 

[Explorer]

Click is better than burn. You should have 12v to the S-term when ign switch is turned to start. If not, find the cause. If you jump from + batt to S term and it doesn't turn the engine, the relay is bad, relay not grounded to fender, starter/solenoid smoked or not getting ground. Electrical problems are the worst thing for most people.

 

['68falconohio]

....Electrical problems are the worst thing for most people.

Electrical problems are the worst thing for all people. The beings who enjoy tracking down electrical SNAFUs are mutants.

 

[Explorer]

LMAO Yea, I've been working on electrical problems for 40 years. Everything from aircraft, tele-communications, to my present hobby. My problem is I can fix it easier than I can explain how to do it.

 

[ludwig]

Duuude, it's not about the testing, analysis and repair part. It's the 'liking' part. Eeeeek!

 

[Canary94GT]

Ugh, well I had my sister turn the key to start so I could test the voltage between negative and the S post. I got the standard "click" noise and read 5 volts both in the run and start position. She left but kept the key in the run position for probably a minute, then I started to smell smoke and then saw it coming from the voltage regulator, so I quickly disconnected the negative from the battery and took the key out.

Now I am even more lost. Is my NEW voltage regulator bad? Is something overloading the regulator? UGH

 

[Explorer]

You can smoke a regulator as easy as plugging it up before mounting it. But forget that for now. Unplug the reg. and disconnect hot wire going to alternator from relay. I am following the 65 mustang wiring diagram provided above
1) 12v leaves the relay on the Blk/Blu wire and turns to yellow when it reaches the ign switch. Check here for 12v
2) 12v leaves the switch in start pos on the RD/BLue, passes thru the neutral safety switch and connects to the S term on relay. Still must have 12v, solve this problem first.
You can do all this with an ohmeter and not disconnect any thing but the batt, but I'm trying to keep this simple. Watch for chafed, burnt, shorted wires in this circuit. Once you have 12v to relay it should close and send to starter solenoid.

 

[Canary94GT]

Thank you Explorer for all your help, I guess I just don't know how to check at the ignition switch for 12v. Like where is the wire? Do I have to disconnect it from the switch?

 

[Explorer]

Hopefully you are still young enough to stand on your head and see it from behind the dash. If it has a plug pull it loose and check. You just changed it, right? Point is to follow the flow like a water hose. Consider voltage as pressure, when you lose it there is a reason. I suspect something with the NSS/wiring. If you would like to take this to e-mail, send me your address and I'll walk you thru it.

 

[Canary94GT]

Update: cleaned my voltage regulator and starter solenoid grounds, then found my engine to firewall ground cable insulation was flaking apart. I don't know what this grounds or if it has anything to do with my problem.

 

[ludwig]

Well, that is a MAJOR portion of the ground continuity. You need a new, clean one. There are other grounding points but that is what ties the block, where you bolt the NEG cable from the battery, to the body and the rest of the electricals. That and the starter motor.

 

[Canary94GT]

Right, I'm going to make sure and get a new one ASAP.

Who knows, that thing could have started cracking and shorting out when I started working on the car.

 

[sixpony]

The engine to firewall ground is necessary but the flaking insulation won't affect it as long as it 's making good contact, have you checked the plug where the ignition switch wires pass through the firewall, possible corroded or broken pin, sometimes it's the simple things that drive us nuts