Clifford header 223 in a car

Adriatic Machine

Well-known member
Has anyone used the Clifford header on a CAR with a 223 I-6? 1959 Ranchero. These headers are a dual collector design and the front collector exits in front of the engine mount/ crossmember/ lower control arm.

These cars have the engine mount towards the middle of the block and there doesn’t seem to be any space to run the exhaust, let alone a 2.5 inch diameter pipe.
 

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I never liked the way that header had to be routed. Actually I have Clifford header in my car. It actually came from a used engine from a pickup. I cut it apart and routed the crossover under the engine. Here are photos of my setup. Some of the photos are from when I was in process of welding it up. It is a tight fit around the transmission linkage and the z-bar, but it can be done.
 

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I will get you a good photo of the completed header so you can see the complete finished product, if you want to tackle some fab work yourself. Also I used 2.25 for the exhaust pipes.
 
Thank you for the reply! Yes I believe you shared a video on facebook a few weeks ago. I posted there too. I was surprised to see the routing but it makes total sense. I’ll probably stick with the plan and modify my Patriot truck header. It’s got 2” collector outlets so maybe that will make it possible to route everything out the drivers side.
 
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With 2 inch pipe you will be fine. I was worried about the crossover pipe myself melting the center links, but I wrapped that section and have had no problems. If you are doing the fab work yourself there are 4 things I want to pass on:

1. Use as much of the existing header as you can. It will save you time in the long run.
2. Start with the rear 3 cylinder header tubes. Keep it as close to the block as you can to ensure that you have enough room for the front three cylinders exhaust pipe to clear, but also ensure you have enough room to access the drain nut for the block, and can access your dipstick.
3. Use only tack welds when you are fabbing up the pipes. Only weld the pipes completely when you are absolutely positive of clearances and routing. I was constantly putting the header back on the head to ensure I had the correct clearances. Also on the final welding, just weld small portions of pipe at a time to ensure nothing moves/warps on you due to the heat. If you find a pipe did move a little you can "finesse" it back with a rubber mallet.
4. After final welding, cap the end of the exhaust tube at each collector. One at a time pour water into each tube to check for any leaks. If any are found mark the spot, and then let header drain and dry overnight. Then weld the leak(s), and repeat the test.
 
I’m going to run everything straight down the drivers side. I’ve got a Patriot header that is for a truck and was planning on cutting it up for reconfiguration anyway. Someone on FB suggested these header tubes are too long for this engine so I’m researching it now. Probably wind up with a shorty style with the collectors up much higher.
 
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