Clutch Pedal Issues

[Anonymous]

Hey guys...
having issues with my clutch pedal being too high...
Its a single rail with a cable...

there is only 1 adjustment, which is at the fire wall, and to get it to a position so that it works, the clutch pedal is up way too high !

to the point that it has failed my rego inspection...

Did these things have a pedal stop in the pedal box ? or is something else wrong ?
I'm using a rpm clutch, which is rather new.


thanks,
Cam

 

[xctasy]

Any XD Falcon with a 3 or 4 speed gearbox has the cable clutch. I've ditched mine long ago.

Are you able to have someone do a measure-up?

The firewall pressing is exactly yhe same. I've seen Cortina and XD Falcons with a similar cable set-up, so perhaps the pedal is interchangeable.

Rules of levers are to move the cable point further away from the pivot. I'd say the XD pedal would fix the problem. Again, the firewall pressing is the same between models (XC and XD), it was just the cable and the transmission torque box which varied between the first XA/XB/XC and the later XD/XE.

My S-pack Van had a long treaded rod added to the clutch cable at the engine bay firewall to ensure the take-up was correct

Look at the gold anodised rod on the top left. My suggestion is to space it right out towards the exhast, and make the take up closer to the floor.

You may have to then shift the hole further away from the pivot to get enough travel.

Hope you get the gist of this.

Deano

 

[Anonymous]

nah i'm a little confused !!

I think there is meant to be an adjustment at the bell housing as well??

when you say you ditched yours have you gone hydraulic ??

with a single rail ??

it has the threaded rod as you mentioned...
i can adjust the pedal position so its closer to the floor, but if i do this it doesnt dis-engage the clutch...

i dont like the cable

Cam

 

[xctasy]

Sorry. I've got a hyraulic clutch now in my XC (an automatic transmission....)


There is possibly a website showing set-up of clutch pedals, but its better to get a guy with Been There, Done That beside his name, and that's not me.


It seams to me that the cable clutch adjustment is now off because the distance (or arc) of clutch cable travel AT THE TOP WHERE THE CABLE MEETS isn't enough to do the job.


Princpal is that to clutch take up becomes closer to the floor the more it wears. The problem you have is a lack of leverage at the top of the pedal. To fix a leverage problem, you either change the pivot opint on the pedel, or the clutch fork. I don't think there is any clutch fork leverage adjustment.

As an example, you have to increase the distance the top of the cable moves through. If the cable clutch was designed for 100 mm of travel at the cable, but you have like 300 mm of travel at the pedal, then you have to shift the connection point at the away form the pivot point, so you get like 110 mm of movement at the cable. Then the clutch pedal will only have to move a smaller distance

This then allows you to adjust the cable by the normal threaded rod at the top.

I don't think there isn any adjustment on an XD/XE clutch arm, just at the firewall. Therefore all you can do is shift the mounting point at the top of the pedal.

It's simple to do. A new hole further away from the pivot by about 3 mm will make a huge difference to the travel of the clutch pedal, possibly enough to make the pedal sit where it should be. 3 mm of pivot point change could be like a 6 to 10 mm extra pullout travel on the clutch cable. The result is the clutch pedal can then be adjusted to where ever you need it.


Hope that helps.

 

[addo]

Is it the correct fork and thrust bearing? Has the pivot broken (not unknown)? Has the fork bent?

I am thinking wrong fork. A check to see if the Corty one has a different part number, is in order.

The bellhousing I bought off "pcman" is also drilled for a shingle trail and runs hydraulic actuation (no, it's not for sale) so they are out there. Hydraulic gets pricey, cost it before bailing on the cable.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

i dont know if its the right fork or not !
I'll look into the pivot point, but it might be the fork !
the pedal looks ok, as there is the hold for the "push" for the hydraulic system...


I know that the thrust bearing that came with the new clutch made it worse !

maybe i can just bend the fork?

argh, changing fork means pulling the box out again !
i just put it back in yesterday !!
bloody single rail pos !

thanks
Cam

 

[xctasy]

Hang in there buddy.

Once you get through this you will be able to charge a consultants fee!


The best bet is the pivot point. Look at that, and don't get dishartened.If you redrill the pivot point, its a job you can do "in doors"!

(oh har har har)

Most cock-ups are fixable with simple changes. Race car drivers have done it for years. If you are running good gear, why change it?


The cable clutch and single rail box is a great swap. There are heaps and heaps and heaps of old junked XD/XE/XF/XG's which make great donar cars.

Everyone wants to put later model stuff in the Tri 7O's Falcons.

Talk to the boss, sort out an alternative transport, and kick the but of the problem.

Aussie Battler #1,
Clutch Problem Nil

 

[Anonymous]

ok, i'll see if i can cheat and re-drill the pedal..

after all it makes sense ! less pedal movement for more cable movement...
but also means heavier pedal...

you said if i'm running good gear...
Its a single rail !!

almost got a T5 for a good price, but it didnt happen

I'm also having problems with the cable getting too hot and the bit that holds the nuts/threaded rod melting, anyone else seen this ??

Cam

 

[xctasy]

RIP The BW single rail. Born 1971, died 1987. It is a great gearbox. You can still get parts, it shifts okay, and if you rewired the nylon ball if the gearshift falls off, it works fine for a long time. Its no M20 or M21 Holden box. It piddles all over those mainshaft blowing, too short third gear disasters!

The thing can hack about 350 hp before it cries out, and a T5 from a six won't. Chargers put over 300 hp and 405 Nm through theres, 5.8 GXL's and Cobras put 216 hp and 429 Nm through its ones in 1700 kilogram bricks, and AIT shoved 268 hp through stock XE 4-speeds without a wimper.

Cable heat is easily fixed. Air conditionoing laging from the XF's A/C system.

Redrill, you know you want to!

 

[Anonymous]

ok, redrill redrill !!

hmm, well i guess it does seem kinda tough....
Its blow 1 diff and doesnt complain when the clutch is dropped at 4000rpm !

anyone got a proper fork?


Cam