Cracked intake manifold

[Anonymous]

Well, my headline says it all. I just finished replacing the gas tank, fuel pump, carb, and installing DS2. As my Dad's friend and I are tuning the engine after the distributer install we just can't get it to idle right. So we're looking around and all of a sudden this guy's like "Oh wait! I see!" and points out a crack behind the carb on the intake. It goes right across from one side to other. AAARGH! So, does anyone know of a good place or has a head I could buy? The current head is a stock '69. I really want a '77 head. Bigger valves, hardened seats, etc, etc. Any help, I'm getting terribly frustrated. :x

 

[Anonymous]

Untill you find a new head you should be able to weld the crack with a nicle rod and stick (ark) welder. You could also use a torch or even get by with JB weld if you clean it realy well .

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah, I put some rtv sealer on it just to get done with the tune, but I'm gonna use this as an opportunity to upgrade. I don't have the money for an aftermarket head even though it would be money well spent (if I had it ). It doesn't seem like heads are falling off of trees. Anyone in the Chicago area know of a good yard?

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

how soon do you need it? there are some E0 heads in teh local yard (been meaning to go grab one for myself) I would clean it real good with brakleen, grind out a V and epoxy if it is a daily. with proper prep you will be amazed what you can do with the JB

 

[simon]

I know it can be brazed.

Could a small crack in a low stress area, like upper side of the log, possibly be soldered shut with tin or lead as well?

I´d say yes (yet don´t know), but mostly because I like playing with the torch and tin, and I´ve found tinned and leaded surfaces to be pretty forgiving, even when subject to some light torsion forces and prolongued heat cycles.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

on my old TC we patched up a couple motors.

first was one that spit a rod out and had no money for a new block or machine work. ball honed it and welded up the side of the block with Ni rod and a hunk of 1/4" plate. ran fine afterwards.

new was the motor that replaced it 5 months later. while fitting an oil pan and pulling it in and out of the car the chain slipped and dropped it off the hoist cracking off one of the bell housing mounting ears on the block. bolted up a spare bell and hit it with teh old buzz box again and it held for a 250-275hp motor doing 5K clutch dumps.


I think epoxy is the best bet since there will be no heat addition to the head and it willl mostly sit on top of the head (god luck cleaning down in that crack for solder/brazing. I would just rough it up and spary down with brakleen and mix up some JB and spread it over it. it flows out pretty nicely if it is a reasonable temp out and will look pretty good in the end.

 

[6stang5]

JB Weld is how I fixed a 8 in crack on the side of the block in my old 64 Ford Pickup. It held fine for the two years I owned it. That should hold you until you can get a replacement head.

Have Fun!
Marty

 

[Anonymous]

I have an 81 head that's been rebuilt. Ported, polished bowls, port divider, cc'd, comp cams springs,guides etc. It's a long way to ship. Pm if you still need it. We're running a tbi'd Oz head, hence the 81's availability.

Cheers Mike

 

[FastRonald]

8) Try the U - Pull - It yard in Blue Island. It's EAST of Western Ave at 141st street. If not I have a complete 200 head here in good shape cheap.IF.you can pick it up in the south west suburbs?

 

[Lazy JW]

I know it can be brazed.

Could a small crack in a low stress area, like upper side of the log, possibly be soldered shut with tin or lead as well?

I´d say yes (yet don´t know), but mostly because I like playing with the torch and tin, and I´ve found tinned and leaded surfaces to be pretty forgiving, even when subject to some light torsion forces and prolongued heat cycles.

I'm sure that a good tinker could make a serviceable solder joint in that application.
Joe