All Small Six Cylinder Head

[Crustang to Mustang]

Hey I'm new to FordSix.com and I know that this has been addressed before, but is there a nice cylinder head for the 200ci that doesn't cost over $2,500 and doesn't have a long waiting list?

 

[aussie7mains]

Doubt it. Go buy an Australian crossflow engine, they came in 200 and 250ci.

 

[bubba22349]

Hey I'm new to FordSix.com and I know that this has been addressed before, but is there a nice cylinder head for the 200ci that doesn't cost over $2,500 and doesn't have a long waiting list?

Well as for a lower cost Head that you can actually find here in the old US of A and also fairly quick there are the Later Model 200 & 250 Six Large Log Heads (they are both Identical in there features). These Heads are actually quite a big improvement over the 1963 1/2 to 1968 Small Log Heads used on the older 200 Six's. The Large Logs started being made in 1969 but usually it's best to look for at least a 1977 up to 1983 Head's newer is better on these since they will have all the Factory improvements (you will need to learn to check those Design Numbers so you know what your getting). These heads need very little to work well on a 1963 1/2 to 1968 Ford or Mercury 200 Short Block but there are lots of Mods that can be done to improve them even more. Good luck

 

[Crustang to Mustang]

Thanks for the info. I am planning on hopefully stroking my engine but I feel like the stock cylinder head would defeat the purpose.

 

[rocklord]

Thanks for the info. I am planning on hopefully stroking my engine but I feel like the stock cylinder head would defeat the purpose.

If you want a stroked 200, get a 250. Technically, a 250 is a stroked 200.

It is difficult stroking a 200 without decreasing the stroke/rod ratio below 1.5, and increasing piston side loading

 

[aussie7mains]

If you want a stroked 200, get a 250. Technically, a 250 is a stroked 200.

It is difficult stroking a 200 without decreasing the stroke/rod ratio below 1.5, and increasing piston side loading

It would be very difficult to stroke the low deck block 200, you may be able to offset grind the crank and get an extra .125 stroke, but that is only a 4% difference which I doubt you would even notice. The rod ratio wouldn't matter much on a street engine. However ditching the 200 entirely and going to the high deck 250, is a 25% increase which you are definatley going to notice. If your concerned about rod ratios the 250 is actually a slight improvement over the 200. Our 221 ci sixes are even worse, but they go quite well. As Ive said before cubes will always win, unless blown. As an aside, I have a high deck 200 which has a rod ratio of 2, which in most theories says wont give good torque, but with a blower on board, I can tell you its got plenty. rod ratios are another myth, unless your racing the car, its doesnt matter much. The BBC has a pretty poor RR, but they go like shit off a shovel.

 

[Cox Custom Mechanical]

This is true, the only advantage of a higher rod ratio in a street engine is the reduce piston wear due to lower rod angles.

 

[Invectivus]

You can also have a large log head converted to a 2V direct mount carb. Half a dozen years ago I think it was around $700, who knows what it is now. I know of at least one guy in Fresno that does the work. I was going to play around with my mill before I lost my workshop, so that kinda stalled out.

 

[Crustang to Mustang]

I have heard and found out in research that the 250ci is ridiculously hard to find. I was hoping to use Classic Inlines plan for a stroked 200ci and on top of that upgrade to a street cam, 4 barrel carb, and a true dual exhaust.

 

[Soldmy66]

As others have said, I think you will find that stroking a 200 is unlikely to yield results that justify the cost and effort involved. If you do it - that is awesome and I'll follow along. But - tempering your expectations up front is probably a good idea. It might be worthwhile if look around a bit more for the 250. They built a lot of them, and I think you might find one worth buying. Either way. good luck.

 

[Crustang to Mustang]

I can't even find a 250 cylinder head. I don't know how I can find a whole 250 engine. But I also really don't have the money to to swap my transmission... But if I did, I'd upgrade to a 300.

 

[rocklord]

I can't even find a 250 cylinder head. I don't know how I can find a whole 250 engine. But I also really don't have the money to to swap my transmission... But if I did, I'd upgrade to a 300.

Go to www.car-part.com, input "1975" "Ford Maverick" "Engine" and your zip code. At the next screen choose "6-250".
You will get a list of salvage yards that utilize the website and have a 250 for sale. I just did a search using the zip code for
Atlanta, GA (30033) and came up with eight salvage yards within 400 miles. You might even find one with a transmission
attached.

If you want a good cylinder head, use the same site to search for a "1981" "Ford Mustang" "Cylinder Head (Engine)". At the
next screen choose "6-200". You will have a list of salvage yards that have a D0BE or E0BE casting late cylinder head.

Hope this helps.

 

[Crustang to Mustang]

I just checked, there aren't any 250s or 1981 200 cylinder heads in my area, thanks anyways. It was a great thought though.

 

[bmbm40]

I learned along time ago it is best to start searching for parts early instead of later. Just keep checking all sources including craigslist and maybe widen your search radius. I put a wanted ad on cl years ago for a 250 and within a couple of days found one about 150 miles away. A low mileage 250 and the seller had just completed a valve job. He was a long time Ford six enthusiast, it ran great.
Also find out what year your current head is, you might be fortunate enough to discover that it is a later head fitted to your Mustang, late enough to make some performance mods to.

 

[Kritas]

Good advice above. I bought my car thinking it was stock. After running the codes, I found that the engine is a '78 200 block with a '77 250 head. Some PO had started doing some upgrades in the past.

 

[Crustang to Mustang]

I'll definitely keep an eye out, bmbm40. I have no idea what year the cylinder head is. I don't even know what year the engine is!

 

[Crustang to Mustang]

Judging by the crappy job the last guy did at at restoring my Mustang, he probably didn't even know what a cylinder head was.

 

[bubba22349]

Hi Crustang, to help get you started on finding out what you have in your Mustang now, you can learn the year of your engine by finding the Casting / Design Numbers on the parts like the Block, Head, and other cast parts. The Engine Block Design Numbers will look something like this C5DE-6015-A and will be located on the exhaust side of the engine block. Also note that when looking at these small Six Engines a quick way to ID them is that all 200 Six's will have 5 Freeze Plugs on the Exhaust side of the block. A144, or 170 Six look similar externally and are the exact same height as the 200 Six's, but they will only have 3 Freeze Plugs. All 144, 170, and 200 Six's will have 3 mounting bolts holding the Water Pump onto the Short Block. When you are hunting for the 250 Six's they will also have 5 Freeze Plugs on the Exhaust side of the block, but they will have 4 mounting bolts holding the Water Pump onto the Short Block plus these Blocks are Taller by about 1 3/4 inches.

In the example C5DE-6015-A this decode like this:

C is the decade and will = 1960
5 is the year added together with the above will = 1965
D is for the Ford model line that the part was Originally Designed for this = a Ford Falcon
E is for the Engineering department that designed it = Engine
6015 is the basic Ford part number that denotes a cylinder block
A is the number of times the part has been redesigned or improved this = 1

The head numbers will be similar when you find them, they will be located on the Top of the Heads Log Intake and should be easy to find. To know more about your engine like the exact date that the block or head was cast at the Ford foundry than look for the casting date code. It's 3 or 4 numbers plus a letter looks like a small metal tag with a straight blade screw head on each end in the casting. When you find your Design Numbers post them and I can help you with decoding them. There is also some more places you can also Decode with very helpful info on the History of your Mustang like the Door Warrantee Tag. Good luck

 

[Crustang to Mustang]

This is what is on my intake log. 3L9 on the metal tag and 080E-6090-AA across the log.

 

[bubba22349]

Can you take a picture of the Log? It won't be 0-0 in that first and third position those should be Letters. Because of the years these Log Heads were manufactured in (1960 to 1983) the First Letter will need to be a C, D, or E, and is the main way of determining the year of these Log Heads. The Letter in the third Position will ID which Model Ford the Head was Originally Designed for this is normally a D for these Heads. Good luck