Dieing after quick acceleration

[Anonymous]

What would cause these engines to die immediately after a quick pump of acceleration?

If I floor my gas pedal and let it off after a couple of seconds, the engine dies. It funs fine under normal acceleration.



-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

lack of fuel in bowl?

you replaced your fuel pump right? maybe it cant recover quick enuff and you need to go to a electric pump

 

[Anonymous]

I'm getting plenty of fuel. The new pump is MUCH better than the old one. My clear inline filter is almost always full now.



-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

what did the pump cost you? is it as easy to put in as it looks?

i am worried about by spring being worn and gas oging back into pump too often

 

[Anonymous]

It was 18.00 at Autozone and yes it's that easy to replace.



-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

is a 79 fuel pump same as a 68?

hmmmm....its cheaper...LOL

 

[Anonymous]

Hmmm...good question? I think the pumps bolt hole connections make it sit a little higher on the block. This means that the pump lever arm that goes into the block sits on top of the camshaft rather than below like the '68 model. But I won't think that should matter.

Hey, try it and if it doesn't work - take it back. Just tell the guy (or gal) at the counter you got the years mixed up. :roll:



-Chris

 

[MustangSix]

On the 1100 on automatic cars there is a dashpot that gently returns the throttle to idle. It looks like the accelerator pump, but it's on the opposite side of the carb. If it fails, quickly releasing the throttle could momentarily starve the engine of fuel and cause it to die when in drive.

Check to make sure your carb has this and that if works. You can test it by opening the throttle and releasing it. The dashpot should gently return it to idle.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Jack, I'll have to call Langdon to see if he has any dashpots for the 32/36.



-Chris

 

[trashline]

i dont belive there are any dashpots on the webers from him. the carb i got from tom L just has an acc pump and thats it. does it do this sitting still or when driving? or both? i would call tom and ask him what he thinks

 

[Anonymous]

It just does it moving. Floats maybe?



-Chris

 

[trashline]

thats what i was thinking maybe. im not to sure on the h/w carbs. but i was thinking mayeb that could be it. i think your float level is too low bc it is starving the enigne and dieing. i dont hink it is to hi bc then it would bog and still run. call tom langdon. he knows alot more about these things then i do. but i say the float level. and remember the way you have the carb the fuel bowl isnt facing the front like it should you have it facing the drivers side. but ive been told that this orientation of the carb didnt effect its performance. but maybe the float is a bit too low and the sideways nature of the carb are both effecting it

 

[Anonymous]

I can easily rotate my carburetor to the right position. It's just a matter of twisting the aluminum flat stock I have attached to the carburetors accelerator lever.

I'll try it tonight.



-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

Punching the gas will drop engine vac and should drop the contribution of the vacuum advance. Do you have enough initial timing? If the initial timing was not adequate, that could possibly cause it to die.
But my gut is telling me it sounds like something with the carb.

 

[Anonymous]

Plenty of initial advance. Right now I'm set to approx. 18 degrees (I say approx. because my timing marks only go to 14).



-Chris

 

[trashline]

dude , ive been trying to hook linkage up for the past week with my carb bowl facing the front. and it isnt that easy. you need to do something completely different. the angle is to great . and a pain in the ass. did you call tom? alot of people have not had problems with the placement of the carb. so i still say call tom and ask him

 

[Anonymous]

Haven't called Tom yet.

Below it a picture of my current linkage (just in case you missed my last post). If I bend the flat piece of aluminum in a twist pattern, it should allow me to rotate the carburetor. But then again, I could be over simplifying the issue.

I'll call Tom later this after noon.



-Chris

 

[trashline]

but see the force of the original rod is going up. then it will push the aluminum piece up and towards the driver side . and instead of pushing the throttle on the carb in the directionand it wont spin. im just tyring to save you the trouble of error bc that is exactly what i did. i would try to leave the cabr the way it is and find out if it was just the float

 

[Anonymous]

I agree about the float but I think you can make a linkage work with the carburetor turned facing foward. it just takes time and a lot of thinking.

I'm going to figure out the stalling first, then work on the linkage quest.

Check this out.

My only fear is that I may not have enough leverage in the upward direction on that second arm to move the third arm upward enough. Make sense? Of course I wouldn't screw directly into the intake - that was just a brain fart. :roll:



-Chris

 

[trashline]

that might work there. when i go to work tonight im picking up some aluminum . and i will try it i manipulated it abit but this is kinda what you have . i dont know how to put a pic in posts soil explain. lower the end of thealuminum that is connected to the throttle bar so that it is below the mount on the intake move the bar connected to the throttle blade on the carb back behind the blade so the motion is in the right direction. but i think it will work. another problem is the choke horn. we both have the water run thorugh type. maybe drill a hole and thread in a new pipe and close off the other exit.[/img]