Distributor problems?

[Mercury Mike]

If when you start your car, it starts, then starts to die, then runs good for about 3 seconds, then starts to die, then runs good, off and on, for about a minute, and then dies, and gas spits out the carb... does that sound like it could be a distributor problem? I have to keep resetting my distributor. It will do this about 3 times, then it won't start. I got fire in the carb once, but that only happened once. If I reset TDC, reset the distributor, 12*, it will do what I described above. I have another dizzy, from a free 200 that I got, and am rebuilding currently for a different 'Stang. I am thinking about dropping this dizzy in. The motor in the other mustang ran good, so I figure I probably won't have this problem... I figure since it tries to run when I reset the dizzy, it must be the dizzy, right? On the plus side, I got to drive the '56 F100 today, thing hauls ass! And for Christmas, I'm getting a full suspension, wheel bearings, brakes, and steering upgrade. New parts, but I think I'm gonna put a power steering kit in.

 

[addo]

Sounds like the timing is seriously wrong!

 

[Shrinkdude]

Has the balancer slipped on the rubber?

 

[fordconvert]

Did you ever pull off the valve cover and check the movement of the rocker arms to see if there was anything unusual? Bent pushrod? Stuck valve?

 

[pedal2themetal45]

sounds like fuel related to me... maybe

 

[Mercury Mike]

The balancer is right on, no bent pushrods or nothin'. It might be fuel delivery, however.

 

[Hot 6t Falcon]

I think you got some wires crossed.

There is a wire coming off your starter solenoid that goes to your distributor so you get the full 12 volts to points when you are starting up. As soon as you let go of the key, power to this wire stops and the dist SHOULD get power from the key switch (the pink resistor wire)

If you don't have power from the key you engine will quit running as soon as you let go of the key from the starting position. About thrre seconds.

Sounds like the only power the distributor iis getting is from the solenoid. Some solenoids will have the two little 14 guage wires marked on the body of the solenoid as "I" (ignition) and "S" (starter) The S comes from the key switch to the solenoid to engage the solenoid. When the solenoid is engaged, it sends 12 volt power from the battery to the starter and to the igntion. Sounds like that's working GREAT.

That "I" ignition wire, and a wire from the key, both go to the "+" side of the coil. The "-" side of the coil is the wire that goes inside of the distributor to the points.

I don't think your wire to the key works. Either it isn't hooked up, or it is dead.

Hope I helped

 

[fordconvert]

Didnt your starter get stuck on a few months ago? Did you ever figure out why that happend? If the resistor wire was somehow hooked to the starter that would explain some of these issues. Maybe its time to take apart harnesses and look for damage from overheating? Like maybe there is a melted wire that is not shorted to anything untill it gets hot from cranking?

 

[Mercury Mike]

Yeah my starter did get stuck. Hmm... that brings up a point that I hadn't thought about. When I pulled the starter, it was TOAST! The drive gear would move back and forth about 2 inches. It just let go, and took 2 teeth in the torque converter with it. Easy swap on the converter, just pull the rad and move the engine forward on a rolling jack. You all might be right... it might just be time to check the wiring. I have the money, so it might be time to rewire it. It hasn't run since the starter let go, and I think you might be right! I will check it all. Where should I start?

 

[addo]

You unplug and remove the harnesses, one at a time. Clean, inspect and test every wire. Make sure you understand what each one is for. Repair as needed, reinstall and move to the next harness.

Note that crimp only connections are not adequate. A good repair is soft soldered and heatshrink covered. If you can buy it in yards (not rolls) off an auto electrical shop, the TXL brand wire is pretty good. Repairs should be in matching original colours, or close as possible. Can also raid the junkyard if need be...

 

[mugsy]

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me.....

Start the engine and spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb and any joint where there might be a leak. When the fluid "fills" the crack/gap the engine will run smooth (the air is going THRU the carb and not "around" it). After checking the carb proper, also check the tubes and hoses attached to the intake manifold, especially the vac line to the tranny module.

Good Luck!

Mugsy 8)

 

[69.5Mav]

How about

Before you go ripping into the wiring harness you try jumpering the battery dirrectly to the posative end of the coil. If that fixes it then look for why, you could have a marginal coil or any of several other things wrong.

Also check the condition of your plugs after you try to start it, you may be getting to much fuel, raw fuel stips out of the carb when it dies, or have an oscilating choke, rpm jack hammers up and down.

69.5mav