Distributor Setting

tri-power 250

Well-known member
What do you think about a distributor set at 24*@4500rpm?
Well, I had mine turned today on a Sun Machine and that's what it measured. So I had it set for 24*@3300rpm.
My engine is basically stock, except the head has been shaved probably .07, bigger valves, and a direct mount mount carb.
My engine was pinging at highway speeds, so I pulled the distributor and had it checked.
Ken
 
There is a bit more to it than that , one , what is the 25 , Distributor degrees or Crank ? , 2nd what was the initial set at , and 3 what did the vac advance curve look like , how much total , when does it start , when is it all in , your statement lacks a few things , and one more thing , what octane gas do you use ? There is a lot more to Recurving than a mrg spring and bend a tab.
 
the 24*@3300 is at the distributor, plus the static advance of 10* the total advance should be 34*@3300 rpm. Octane is 92 or 93, I'll get the rest of the specs tomorrow.
Ken
 
That's why a Sun distributor machine is so vital,as more often than not, that is what happens to old distributors or even new ones. You can't manage what you can't measure.

My Sun Engine analyser has a dial back timing light. Only issue is that loading the torque converter up to 4500 rpm in a C3 equiped Mustang in an urban area scares my neigbours. If you freewheel an auto or manual engine up to its redline,it also makes considerable noise.

So I use an old 250 Falcon log engine without the valves but still with its plugs, crank, cam, rods, flexplate and oil pump attached which has the bigger 0.530 inch pilot. That means a duraspark or pre 1964.5 distribtor fits,and then I just buzz the block up to up to even 7000 rpm with a special 3" pully and a v-drive off a variable speed electric motor. My old Sun engine analyser allows you to vary working vacuum to suit,so I just use that as a source. If it gets hairy finding out vacuum, I just swap the loghead over to one with valves, and use the vacuum from the engine with its head. You'd be supprised how many watts it takes to drive a valved engine to 7000 rpm. At 7000rpm unvalved, your shifting about 500 cubic feet of air every minute, so it makes noise too, but not as much as a Ford six parked vehicle in you garage risking a converter blow out,or worse, irate neighbours!
 
tri-power 250":23w3bp2u said:
the 24*@3300 is at the distributor, plus the static advance of 10* the total advance should be 34*@3300 rpm. Octane is 92 or 93, I'll get the rest of the specs tomorrow.
Ken
24 at the Dist is 48 at the crank add 10 and thats Big Trouble , , it would run MUCH better if you had 8-10 in the Dist , and 14-18 initial , Again thats what Recurving the Dist does
 
Maybe I'm stating it wrong, the mechanical advance is 24*@3300 rpm. The light weight spring advances 12*@1400rpm then the total mechanical advance is 24*@3300 rpm. Now with the 8* initial timing the total advance is 32*. If I stated something wrong, please let me know. I am always learning with this car and really enjoying the journey.
Thanks,
Ken
 
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