DSII Question

64.5 TX Stang

Well-known member
Now that I have installed a DSII setup can I remove the pink resistor wire and increase the voltage to my coil, thereby (I think) increasing the voltage from my coil?

Thank you all very much.
 
OK so even with the ford coil I should use the full 12 volts? I just want to make sure since this is my daily driver I would prefer not to fry anything.

Thanks!!
 
Hmmmmmm....photobucket is down right now......pics aren't showing...

If using all Duraspark components, there needs to be 1.3 ohms resistance between ign switch and + side of coil.
 
Well my coil is the stock 1965 mustang coil, and the dizzy and control box I bought new from my local parts store. I will have to check the resistance in the next couple of days.
 
Split your feed. Use a Mopar style underbonnet resistor and send the full 12V to the Duraspark, while teeing off this to pass through the resistor, thence to the positive terminal of your coil.

It's not a perfect solution if my reading of the way the DS-II operates is correct, but should survive happily enough.

Regards, Adam.
 
Photobucket is back up again:


Durasparkdiagram.jpg


durasparkwiring.jpg
 
Yeah I ran a power wire to the back of the ignition switch for the box and verified that it is getting the full 12 volt, I was just wondering if I should bybass the pink wire and send a full 12 volts to the coil, but it looks like I should probably leave the pink wire in.

Thanks.
 
Is the DS-II drawing much more current as an ignition system, than the original points? I am concerned about the capacity of that original resistive wire to carry any significantly changed amperage.
 
I raan a seperate wire for the box, and the pink wire now only goes to the coil, but my thinking was more voltage to the coil equals more voltage out of the coil, and I thought maybe I should just splice in a piece of copper wire in place of the pink resistor wire.
 
addo":14w200h0 said:
Is the DS-II drawing much more current as an ignition system, than the original points? I am concerned about the capacity of that original resistive wire to carry any significantly changed amperage.

The box only controls the negative side ( - ) of the coil (triggering)
the positive side still gets the same amount of current.

They really don't draw any more amps than points. but the triggering is MUCH more accurate. Points are kind of gradual in their triggering, slow to rise and fall. The elctronic ignition is INSTANTLY on and off (for triggering) that is why the dwell time is higher (for fatter spark)

Current draw is the same, but coil saturation occurs for a longer period of time.
 
andrew_carruth":2xocty0c said:
I thought maybe I should just splice in a piece of copper wire in place of the pink resistor wire.

That would burn up the box.
When full 12 v goes into the plus ( + ) side, it still has to handle the load of increased current through the neg side, and it would overheat.
 
And what if Andrew switches to another coil, say a Flamethrower? Would the full 12 volts work then? Couldn't he just tap into the red he ran for the control module (eliminating the resistor entirely)?

--tom
 
The only way out is to get a coil with more resistance (higher ohms)

Otherwise current flow through the coil would become excessive and overheat the Duraspark box.
 
Ok, what Ohm coil should I get, say for both with and without the pink wire. although from the sound of it I would probably be best off just leaving it alone and going with a flamethrower 2 or an accel super stock.
 
andrew_carruth":ao43mgtz said:
although from the sound of it I would probably be best off just leaving it alone and going with a flamethrower 2 or an accel super stock.

Leave the wiring as is......but use a TFI style coil, the "Square" kind, not the round tube kind. Any mid-eighties up Ford car/truck will have one.

At least get the mounting bracket.

I have never had a bad one (personally) so you could go junkyard with it or just get a new MSD brand one for $40 (well worth it)

They are wound so the saturation rises to an even higher level than the round "tube" ones. I have even used them on points ignition systems, they are FAR superior to any round tube style coil.
 
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