EA Idle Speed



I'm new to the forum. I need some help with my EA S Pack. It's got the 3.9 Central Point Injection. Yeh, I know, but my real car is an XM coupe with 289 and 5 speed. Back to the EA, since having the battery disconnected to do some work the idle speeds all screwed up. Does anyone know how to reset the computer?

Question 1: Is your XM still leaking from the wiper posts? ;)

Question 2: Was the work on the EA welding, perchance? Did you disconnect both sides of the battery, if it was? I thought the EEC-IV was self repairing up to a point - it'd accept incremental changes imposed gradually upon it. But there may be an easier way.

Backlash is probably the man to set you straight. Or A7M.

Regards, Adam.
Disconnecting your battery on your EA has caused the computer to forget what to hold the idle speed at.
First try is to start the engine and at idle, in park. switch on and off the air conditioning. select all gears, down through the range and back to park.
Select drive and switch on and off the air conditioning.
What you are trying to do is run through all the sysytems that would affect the engine operation.
Try a slow trip around the block, then drive at normal speeds, to reset the idle speed stepper motor.
Get back to us if this doesnt help.
Sorry guys Im only familular with the MPI system, which has a base idel spped of around 500rpm, thats adjusted by a good old screw. The ecu adjusts the speed when AC etc is switched on.
If the ISC my be a bit sticky.
Hey Backlash,
Thanks for the tip but still no luck. My EA is a 5 speed with no A/C. I did the slow trip round the block to no avail. It'll idle at 750 but as soon as I barely touch the gas pedal it shoots up to about 1,500. It comes back down to 750 slowly over about 12 - 15 seconds and sometimes 'flares' to about 1,100 a couple of times. Any other suggestions?BTW Addo, yes the wiper posts do leak in the XM. There's nothing like having a wet clutch pedal when your in traffic.

It might be time to disconnect the battery again, leave it overnight , and then rehook it with all current draws disconnected (ie, all fuses out, then plug 'em in). You weren't having alternator or battery problems, were you?

Like Jeff said, physical "stickiness" might be another cause.
Back again. With the CFI sytem, the stickyness of the throttle is as I suspected. Disconnecting the battery has caused the computer to forget what to do.
What has to be done is to initiate the self test procedure and interupt the procedure just after the first code is being read.
Make sure the front wheels are in the straight ahead position and shut off the engine for around 15 seconds.
Start the engine without the accelerator. Drive the vehicle for four to five kilometers under all reasonable load/throttle positions. Let the engine idle in neutral for around 30 seconds.
After this the system should have reset and the idle will be fine.
Happy motoring.
Thanks for the advice. All is now well. It took a replacement ASC motor to get it squared away in the end. The old one just kinda got worn out and sticky. Probably just a coincidence that it signed off when it did. Got my XM back on the road today. Not a six I'm afraid, see I'm a hot rodder from way back so it's got a 289, Doug Nash and 9". But hey, sixes are cool. Coolest one I ever saw was built by a guy called Bruce Sizemore. Now can anyone tell me who he was??