That disk is the oil slinger that goes between the crank sprocket and the damper. It is there to keep oil away from the oil seal, ford dropped its use in the 70s. If you use the double roller chain do not use the slinger, it will snag the chain because the roller chain is wider.
All Small Six My 200 CI mystery
- Thread starter awasson
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
Thanks for the info on that. I was wondering what its purpose was. I will be putting in a double roller chain so I’ll put it away somewhere for safekeeping.
Hi, as mentioned, that is the oil slinger, and it goes on the crank snout. The wedding ring sets on the front of the cam, directly behind the cam retainer plate. Many guys get the adjustable timing set from vintage Inlines and eliminate the slinger. Ford eliminated it on later engines. Good luck
DON
Famous Member
Not long for sure!
I removed damper/balancer today and snapped a photo head on. Let me know if this is a good enough photo.
Also, I'll be taking the block, crank, pistons (with rods) and flywheel in to a machine shop to have everything inspected, sized and repaired or replaced. Depending on my workload this week, I hope to do that before the weekend.
awasson- welcome! Sounds like you've got a good handle on the situation. On the cylinder that spun the bearing- that rod and pin need to be checked very carefully. When a rod bearing grabs the crank it puts tremendous side force on the rod. If there's enough rpm when a bearing seizes it will snap the rod. Usually this is what happens when someone says they "threw a rod". More often than not they broke the rod when a bearing spun then seized.
Peace.
Peace.
Hi, the wedding ring looks to be there, right behind the dowel on the cam. Make sure to save these parts, they are hard to find. The frost plug over the cam is there, which retains oil pressure. Sometimes during block cleaning and hot tanking this plug is forgotten. As long as the cam retainer plates is grooved on both sides, that is installed properly. You need a grooved side facing the block. Good luck
That is what I was looking for, Like B RON CO said well. I see no problems at the front of the engine.
I would like to add, note that the cam spacer ''wedding ring'' behind the pin is flat side out and the inside bevel that you can not see is toward the cam journal, it must be installed like this if you remove it.
I would like to add, note that the cam spacer ''wedding ring'' behind the pin is flat side out and the inside bevel that you can not see is toward the cam journal, it must be installed like this if you remove it.
Hey guys,
I packed the engine bits in the hatch of my car and took it to a local machine shop called “Canada Engines”.
They’ve been around for 39 years and came recommended by a retired mechanic, hot rod friend of mine. The cam and cam bearings are fine. I gave them the head to check as well in case but it’s looking fine. I inspected the rods and caps anfter I got them out annd cleaned up and they were stamped and in the correct order after all. One of the caps was oriented wrong according to the casting but it was on correctly according to the notches for the bearings. All the same they will be checked thoroughly.
The crank journal doesn’t look too bad. It will need to be ground but the major area for concern is #4 cylinder. There is a scuff on the side of #4 bore, likely caused by that tight wrist pin I noted. They’re going to measure the bores but it might require a rebore and pistons. I’m not sure that it’s been bored. The pistons look OEM and have no markings to indicate whether they are standard or over. Hopefully I can get away with minimal boring.
Any recommendations for pistons, rods and now that we’re here, should I consider a different cam? The stamp on my cam is M 58, I think. I should have photographed it. It looks brand new with no wear.
When it goes back in, the engine will be sporting an EBay header + Webber 38/38 from Clifford Performance. I’m not opposed to putting in a HEI/DUI distributor. My short term goal is a reliable, street friendly engine that will run on 94 octane pump gas.
Long term, maybe forced induction and throttle body injection but definitely not in the near future. I’ll put a T5 in it before I do fuel injection and a turbo.
I packed the engine bits in the hatch of my car and took it to a local machine shop called “Canada Engines”.
They’ve been around for 39 years and came recommended by a retired mechanic, hot rod friend of mine. The cam and cam bearings are fine. I gave them the head to check as well in case but it’s looking fine. I inspected the rods and caps anfter I got them out annd cleaned up and they were stamped and in the correct order after all. One of the caps was oriented wrong according to the casting but it was on correctly according to the notches for the bearings. All the same they will be checked thoroughly.
The crank journal doesn’t look too bad. It will need to be ground but the major area for concern is #4 cylinder. There is a scuff on the side of #4 bore, likely caused by that tight wrist pin I noted. They’re going to measure the bores but it might require a rebore and pistons. I’m not sure that it’s been bored. The pistons look OEM and have no markings to indicate whether they are standard or over. Hopefully I can get away with minimal boring.
Any recommendations for pistons, rods and now that we’re here, should I consider a different cam? The stamp on my cam is M 58, I think. I should have photographed it. It looks brand new with no wear.
When it goes back in, the engine will be sporting an EBay header + Webber 38/38 from Clifford Performance. I’m not opposed to putting in a HEI/DUI distributor. My short term goal is a reliable, street friendly engine that will run on 94 octane pump gas.
Long term, maybe forced induction and throttle body injection but definitely not in the near future. I’ll put a T5 in it before I do fuel injection and a turbo.
You say it might have the original pistons yet. I'm no expert. But I have heard that stock replacement pistons are likely to be .011" further down in the bore than the originals. You might want to take that into consideration for your compression ratio calculations and deck milling. Speaking of which, what kind of head gasket was on it when you did the disassembly, old steel shim or modern composite?
Thanks for the info. It's a steel head gasket. Really thin actually.
Yes, it could have been on for some time. Ironically, the owner prior to the guy I bought it from lived near my brother in law’s home and he remembers it being parked under a carport for many years. The guy I bought it from bought it 6 years ago and it was parked at his parent’s house for 5x1/2 years. The engine seems to have very little actual wear except for the oiling issue so I think it was rebuilt and then sat for 20 years.
Take a look at the back side of the bearings, there may be some clues there. See what the MFG. and date is, if any.
Time for an update...
Thank goodness for small mercies, the crank is not bent!! I didn't anticipate that it was because the pistons never seized but it was worth looking into before embarking on any work.
So I'm getting the crank ground and polished. It'll be 0.020" under. The block needs to be bored because of a score in bore hole #4. It was already oversized and will be 0.60" over. The rods are fine. They're going to vacuum check the head and valve grind if necessary. So I'll have them do the following:
At least at the end of the day, I'll have full knowledge of the internals and condition of everything.
EDIT: If you guys have any recommendations for adjustable rockers and pistons, bearings, etc... do let me know. Thanks.
Thank goodness for small mercies, the crank is not bent!! I didn't anticipate that it was because the pistons never seized but it was worth looking into before embarking on any work.
So I'm getting the crank ground and polished. It'll be 0.020" under. The block needs to be bored because of a score in bore hole #4. It was already oversized and will be 0.60" over. The rods are fine. They're going to vacuum check the head and valve grind if necessary. So I'll have them do the following:
- hot tank / buff gasket surfaces / magnaflux block
- bore & hone block cylinders
- resurface block
- prep block: thread chasing & repair / install cam bearings, frost plugs, and cam plug / wash block after machine work
- press off old piston / resize connecting rods / hang rods on new pistons
- crankshaft grind & polish
At least at the end of the day, I'll have full knowledge of the internals and condition of everything.
EDIT: If you guys have any recommendations for adjustable rockers and pistons, bearings, etc... do let me know. Thanks.
Jmustang_65
Well-known member
If you can find them in .060 over the Silvolite Part No. 1185 from a Ford tempo 2.3L HSC.
Other option that come in 6 are these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-3327h-060 but you will need to order custom rings.
Other option that come in 6 are these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-3327h-060 but you will need to order custom rings.
Jmustang_65
Well-known member
These come with rings. Needs 2 sets.
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I was thinking for valve guide seals I would get the silicon ones: EngineTech Silicon Valve stem seals
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