ECU current draw problems

[Anonymous]

hi, i dont even know if this is in the right section but here goes. i'm running a 4.0L ED XR6 engine in a TD cortina and my problem is: i've got a 1.5amp current draw which is good for flattening a N70ZZ in a couple of days. i've traced the draw to pin no.1 of the ecu which is the only direct battery feed for the ecu and is the memory wire for the blocklearn etc.

the question i've got is what else does this wire service? if it's only for ecu memory then why is the wire 3mm when most of the other heavy electrical traffic wiring is 1.5mm. for this reason i'm suspecting it must have other purposes ie: power feeds for transistor bases etc

i want to know the full purpose of this wire so i can either remove it(have no blocklearn), relay it or switch the powerfeed in some shape or form. this is the only alternative i can think of as i've already had the ecu benchtested and no faults found and so far i've come up zip on trying to locate another XR6 manual ecu which doesnt have smartlock.

i've tried a few of the hardcore efi places here in perth for answers and so far no one has been able to help.

if anyone has any other suggestions, i'd be wrapped to hear them too.

thanks in advance,
Norm

 

[wagon]

Sorry I took so long to get around to attempting to help you... phone line problems, isp *@!#$ etc....

Anyway, how have you wired it?? Is the main relay (the green one I think) on all the time? If so, is it stuffed or do you have a wiring problem? Do you have 12v at the coil positive with the key off (should be zero volts). If my suggestions are correct, the most likely battery flattener is the idle speed control solenoid (mounted on the throttle body). Maybe get yourself a FACTORY workshop manual for the ED motor (I think they are about $100) and check your wiring against the diagrams in there. Do you definitely have an ED wiring harness?? Is it the correct ECU (part # something like 93DA12A650?T)? The ecu with battery hookup only - that is, just the keepalive wire connected - shouldn't draw more than about 50mA or so....

Let me know how you go or if I can help any further. By the way, if you are in Brisbane I may be able to help more.
Enjoy.

 

[Anonymous]

thanks for the info, it's wired using an ea harness and a series 2 eb ecu. no the main efi relay isnt avtice when the key is off. there is no power to the coil of anywhere else for that matter(except where needed) when the key is off except pin no.1 of the ecu. if i hook up a ammeter i get a steady 1.5amp reading but as soon as i disconnect the ecu that will drop down to about 0.1aamp. i've tried unplugging different components and nothing has much of an impact except the ecu.

i've got the proper ea workshop manual already which i had to have to modify the harness.

i doubt the ecu is the correct one. i dont like my chances of finding an ED manual xr6 ecu without smartlock so i went for the next best thing.

i've got a few tricks up my sleeve which i havent had a chance to try as yet due to other commitments but as soon as i tyr them or else remedy it i will post more info.

cheers,
Norm

btw i'm in perth - bit too far from brissie but thanks anyways

 

[Anonymous]

I haven't really been following the E-series ECU developments closely, but I recall hearing that someone had cracked the ECU to the extent of being able to remove the SmartLock software.. I think I saw that on fordforums, on V8 style ECUs.

Failing that, aftermarket ECU? Wolf3Ds have gotten pretty cheap...

 

[wagon]

Been thinking some more... ALL ED ecu's have smartlock (ie all part # like 93DA12A650**). Most EB2 have smartlock but some earlier EB2 did not. Note that EB1 ecu's are the same as EA/EA2 and are for 3.9L motors (some EB1 were even CFI... PUKE!). Have you got an EB2/ED wiring harness NOT an EA??? I believe there are some suble differences that may catch you out! Best of luck, let me know how you go.

 

[Anonymous]

hi,
i'm thinking about the same conversion with my cortina, but run a microtech ecu. any way how does it go? quick?

 

[Anonymous]

it goes well. for the same cost i reckon u could get a 250 to go just as quick though. although i get approx 600-650kms to a 55l tank, it starts first pop every time, idles perfectly, and runs really quiet. with my old diff(ratio unknown) it could happily run mid 14's all day. i'm happy with it anyway.