Electric Choke wire hook-up

mysavioreigns

Famous Member
After much research, I am a little farther than I was when I started :D

I just ordered the electric H/W 5200 from Langdon's Stovebolt, and it's on the way. I'm not sure where this wire should hook up to. I've found it should NOT be hooked up to the coil, and I've heard something about the ignition switch...

This is where it gets fuzzy. Do I need to use a 10A relay? And if so, where am I going to wire that in to? Thanks,

Stephen
 
:D Hi stephen,it is powered by the STATOR line from the alternator.OOOPPPPSSSSSSSSSSS,just thought,do you have alt or generator?No relay necessary that I know of.And stator wire is only hot when motor is running.
Leo
 
it is powered by the STATOR line from the alternator.
Leo spelled that correctly - its not starter - its one of the wires between the alt and the voltage regulator. on my trucks, it had a plug hanging out about 6 inches up teh wire from the alt for you to plug it into. if not, you'll have to ID your wires and tap into it
 
:D Hi Stephen.The voltage from the STATOR wire is only 8 volts IIRC.I almost forgot,I think that the hookups on the back of the alt are MARKED as to what terminal they hook up to on the VR.Clean off the back of the alt and you should be able to read the markings.The one that you want for your electric choke should be marked with an S or STA,or something along those lines.
Leo
 
It depends on what type of choke you are getting. There are at least two types I know of.

One typr takes the 8 V AC comming from the alternator stator. If you have this type your home free.

The other takes 12 V DC. If you have a 12 V DC one the 8 V AC Stator line will not be enough to open your choke fast enough. To get the advantage of no voltage untill the engine is actually running Hook the stator line to a relay coil and power the choke with 12 V DC through the relay contacts.
 
I think the orignal electric motorcraft ones were made to run off of that 7 volt ish alternator terminal but many of the aftermarket ones may be designed to be 12V. I would imagine that later ones with the feedback carbs could have been run off of 12V also. If you have a ballast resistor under load you may be around 7 volts anyway. You may also be lower than that and underpowering your coil since the resistor was not designed to take the extra load of a choke. I used ballast resistors for the chokes on a couple of swaps I did because running full system voltage seemed to burn up the chokes too quick. On the computer controled cars I removed them from I noticed that they never got above 12V. A 2ohm resistor in series with a choke coil drops 13.5 (typical system voltage) down to 11.5 with most of the electric chokes I have messed with. GM ran them through oil pressure switches but Im not sure how they got the voltage drop. The other trick I have heard is if the choke was orignally designed for a air/exhaust heated choke dont block the air flow into the carb, just remove the tube from the manifold and install some sort of screen if you are worried about sucking up some crap. I guess the airflow cools the heater coil.
 
mysavioreigns":2vgpizqq said:
....
I just ordered the electric H/W 5200 from Langdon's Stovebolt....

You really need to find out from the supplier what voltage is required; as mentioned above there are two possibilties: 12 vdc and the AC voltage supplied from the alternator.
Joe
 
Oh I didn't mean to sound brash - I agree I think that will work, but did yours have a 12V choke or an 8V? Also, should I use a relay, if it is a 12V choke, and the STATOR line is an 8V? Thanks
 
:D My ride is an 84 F150,if that helps.Have`nt checked with a meter to verify the voltage.I would do it now for you,but I`m about 12 miles from the truck.
Leo
 
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