Engine Removal suggestions

[barishiman]

I'm about to remove my 200 out of my mustang this week and I've never done such a thing to any car. My plan is just to pull out the block and leave the trani in place. The trani was just rebuilt and I don't want to touch it. Is there anything I need to do or look out for when I pull the block out?



Thanks
Andrew

 

[addo]

Just read everything you can find about the procedure; live and breathe it for a coupla days first. The six is heavy and it's easy to strain your back if you don't watch out. Use the right tools unless we here can reason otherwise. Be safe and live to tell us how it fared.

Common errors/occurrences:

One bolt left in
One wire attached
Not draining all fluids
Poorly secured engine
Incidental panel damage

Regards, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Couple of questions:

I looked on your site, is it a C4 Auto?
Are you taking the head off in car or after?

I just pulled mine, and pulling a 200 is one of the easiest engines to pull. Just take your time and make sure you get everything disconnected.

This was my process...

Drain Oil.
Drain Tranny fluid, torque converter as well. (I was removing them together?, but I would assume you should at least drain the tranny case.)
Pull all wiring and accessories off engine... Alternator, Starter, Fuel Lines, tranny vac line, radiator lines, heater lines, radiator, distributor, I also removed the water pump and everything up front except the timing chain cover.
Then I pulled the valve cover and removed the rocker arms and rods and head and all that was left was a clean 200 block, then I used the two front and two rear head bolt holes to attatch the engine hoist. (If you are re-assembling the same components, mark each head bolt and rod as to the location you pulled them from)

Now here I removed the engine and tranny together and took them apart on the floor. Was very easy with an engine leveler.

To do this in car I would need to look up some information in my manual, which is out at the garage. But if you pull the bellhousing to block bolts the entire thing should slide right out.....

Then you can remove the Torque Converter from the flywheel on the ground. I also removed the balancer and timing hardware after I pulled the engine. Careful of the centerlink and crossmember under the block, make sure you have tension on the block when you pull the motor mount bolts since you are going to slide forward to clear the tranny, and up and out.... this entire process took a day for me. Here is a shot or two...

<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/Picture018.jpg>

<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/Picture020.jpg>

<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/mustangmotorSM.jpg>

In the last one you can see the engine right before I pulled it....

Have fun.....

 

[weeds]

Unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel and leave it with the tranny in the car.

 

[Anonymous]

if u take out the tranny or not, make sure u mark every thing. color coat it or #it and what u have to take off put in a sepret box

 

[barishiman]

All that is left under the hood is the block itself. I already removed the head, alternator, starter, oil pan and pump, distributor, water pump, radiator, and all hoses and misc wires. One of my engine mount bolts broke off inside my block and it looks like two or three bolts are holding the block to the tranni. I'm hoping to get an engine left and stand by the end of the week from friend, if not I'm going shopping . I'll post pics when I pull the block. Thanks for the tips guys.


Andrew

 

[barishiman]

oh yeah, I forgot, i have a rebuilt auto C4 tranni Jimbo. Hehehe

 

[Anonymous]

You should look into renting a hoist I got one from At-A-Boy tools for $35.00 for the day..... Rented in the morning, returned in the evening...

There are lots of tool rental places in you area....

If you are going to remove the torque converter from the flywheel before you remove the engine, you will have to crawl under there and remove the front tranny plate, on the bottom of the tranny then you can access the converter drain bolts and flywheel bolts.... remove all of those going around and then remove the three or four bolts holding the block to the bell housing.... If I remember correctly there are six or so bolts holding the flywheel to the converter.... mark the alignment of the converter and the flywheel before you pull it apart.... I used the starter location for this on my engine, I had better leverage against the crank spinning.

 

[barishiman]

Is it possible just to leave the torque convertor on? That is what is in the picture attached to the block isn't it? Would I then have to drain all the transmission fluid out? Jezz, this is starting to sound complicated. All I want to do is get the block out to paint it blue and paint the engine compartment black.


Andrew

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah that is what is attached to the block, no it's not hard to remove from the flywheel the bolts are actually quite small, I would leave it in, you do not have to drain it either way.... you can do that out of car... or leave it in there as is....

which is what weeds was saying, leave it in there, less work for you than removing some bolts...

it's really not that hard...

read through the manual if you have one, there is a great picture of the flywheel bolts and proceedure.


J.

 

[Anonymous]

hey barishiman,

i would just like to say that you have done a great job with your car so far. that paint looks real nice. and your interior is a color skeme i havent seen before. real dark blue with white...not to many of those i think. looks nice. you should look into putting a GT white stripe like mustang gezers. that would look real good. but all in all i gotta give you props you done good. good luck on your engine pulling.

P.S. in my experience pulling is not what you have to worry about its putting these six's back in. there not even like a eight is..so they like to turn to one side and you have to wrestle with it to get it in. have fun!

 

[61Futura]

My 2spd auto has 4 lock nuts holding the torque converter to the flexplate. If you remove them, make sure you don't turn your engine over backwards to get at them all. I guess that is hard on your timing chain.

If I couldn't get the engine out without pulling the radiator, I'd pull the tranny with the engine. Putting the two together in the car can be a pain in the arse. My bad memories come from removing the tranny without a proper jack, twice.