engine removal

[Anonymous]

I need to know best way to removing the engine, I just got the engine hoist in the garage and it has balancer but the chains arent I think long enough where do I connect the hoist to the engine to hoist it up and no I am not taking out the tranny with it just the engine.

 

[MercuryMarc]

I pulled my first engine a few months ago and pretty much followed the manual advice and also this link:
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/1005/
Everything went well but it sure helped to have a (strong) friend.
Good luck!
Marc in SF
63 Comet Ragtop
69 250I6/C4
htp://mercurycomet.net

 

[Anonymous]

I already did most everything I need to to do except I am leaving the tranny there cause I need to get to the flexplate, and my only real unknown is where do I hookup the hoist to the engine? I have a balancer with four points but I dont know where to put those 4 points on the engine to hoist it up. where are te hook up points??????

 

[t-west]

Though I only pulled the engine, I used only two bolt holes -- one that the coil bolts to an one for the alternator/AC bracket (front pass. side). I intend to use the same for putting it back in w/ the C-4.

--tom

 

[Anonymous]

When I pulled mine i used 2 bolts also. I put one bolt through a chain link into the bolt hole on the engine where the clutch pivot arm mounts and the other end at the forward generator bracket hole (used longer than original / hardened bolts). Also don't forget to support the front of the tranny. I used a ratchet strap going from the firewall to fender brace down around the bell and back up to the brace on the other side which allows some adjustment on the tranny angle and also allows me to move the car if i need to as the is nothing under the car holding it up.

 

[Vaughano]

Run your chain to high-tensile bolts somewhere on either side, corner-to-corner. Some heads have a lifting eye installed, which is handy where the manifolds are on the same side, as in your case.

I always pull the trans with the engine. I find it makes installation easier, especially when you can't con someone into helping. It's a trade off between the extra work (draining oil, removing cables/wires, crossmember) and the convenience of installation.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

I use a 10' or so chain. goes under the front and rear of the pan and crosses over in the middle (looped in a large figure 8) has worked fine for me.

 

[Anonymous]

A picture is worth a 1000 words!

Doug

 

[Anonymous]

I have the engine out and am working on cleaning it up and replacing hoses and the thermostat and some gaskets while I am at it, but one thing is this: it was hard to put the engine back to where the mounting points were at much less where the tranny goes as well, any suggestions? My brother wants to attach the torque converter directly to the flexplate and as it slides in the bellhousing and with the tranny it will serve as a great way to realign everything:good or bad idea???

any suggestions to making the reinstallation easier please say so. there were alot of rubbings and scratchings on both the torque converter and flexplate. no cracks or breaks, possible bendings on the flexplate but not sure.

 

[mustang6]

Not a good idea installing with the torque converter attached to the flex plate. The reason is the torque converter must be indexed as it's installed or you can "stack" the front pump of the transmission and ruin it. To index the converter you push it in the pump while spinning it- you will feel two or three good "steps" inward as it goes around. It would be very hard to do this with any assurance if the converter is already attached to the flex plate.

I think you will find dropping the engine back in and just lining it up with the alignment dowels and motor mounts is not too challenging.

 

[Anonymous]

Not a good idea installing with the torque converter attached to the flex plate. ,,,, I think you will find dropping the engine back in and just lining it up with the alignment dowels and motor mounts is not too challenging.

+1

Everything he said is right on.

 

[WhitePony]

Not a good idea installing with the torque converter attached to the flex plate. The reason is the torque converter must be indexed as it's installed or you can "stack" the front pump of the transmission and ruin it.

I did that exact thing wayyyy back in the mid 70's on my 75 Laguna Type S3. I trashed the turbo 400 tranny through too many jackrabbit starts and got a rebuilt one to swap. When I put the new one in I thought that I had the TC indexed to the front pump, but was wrong. When I bolted the transmission to the engine I heard POP POP! I backed the tranny back off and two little pieces of metal dropped out. They were the drive lugs off of the main gear on the front pump. Had to pull the pump and replace the gear set.

After almost 30 years, I still have that broken gearset as a reminder to double check things like that.

Kris

 

[Anonymous]

the engine was put back, I put in new hoses, fuel lines, filter, new flexplate, torque converter and attempted to start the car last night and that noise that always happens when I start her up was gone, grinding (ehrrrrrrrrr) noise. it almost fired up but then started to see abit of smoke coming from the ground cable. then the car didnt start at all started making a click noise when I turned the key. new starter, thought it was the solenoid but am getting voltage on the other side of the solenoid like 8 volts out of 12. but that ground cable started to get very warm. going to replace it and get new solenoid just in case. question:

I had to rewire the alternator could that be resposible for the problem if I didnt hook it up right there were five wires and one looked like it had a resistor or something on it, it was small rectangular but in a round way and had wire going from one end to the other so I put that with another wire that was on the bottom connection of the alternator. but still how does one hook up an alternater?? cant really tell cause most of the wires are identical. can I check buy resistance or something??

 

[Anonymous]

1)that noise that always happens when I start her up was gone,
2) there were five wires and one looked like it had a resistor or something on it, it was small rectangular but in a round way

1) Cool! 8)
2) sounds like a "fusible link"

 

[Anonymous]

now the engine noise is gone I have a new one sounds like its from under the tranny. when I put it in gear is shakes abit and makes a grinding sound, when in park there is a sound that sounds like when there is no fluid but there is plenty. tranny fluid system works cause saw the level go down after I started the car and when I put some more in it stayed at full. its like a grinding noise (errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr). cant really hear it from the engine bay can really hear it under the car.

 

[Anonymous]

if anyone wants to hear it I can send a clip of the sound. dont have the ability to put it on here or my website. but need to know fast


forget about what I said about it moving, cause now the car wont get into any gear. what do I do??


PLEASE I NEED HELP NOW HERE IS THE CLIP AND THE CAR STILL WONT GO INTO GEAR AND WHEN I PUT IT IN GEAR I GET A LOUD GRINDING NOISE.

http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/qui ... stang+vids

 

[mustang6]

I'm hoping it's not that stacked front pump I warned about. Loud grinding/whirring noise that changes with engine speed, no real pressure to the valve body for gear engagement, it does sound like that's a possibility I'm sorry to say. Before you installed the transmission, did you make sure the torque converter "stepped" inward two or three notches while you pushed on it and spun it? If so, how did you make sure it didn't slip back out during installation?

I always check to make sure there is slack between the converter and the flexplate (usually it's about 1/8") after mating the engine and trans and before bolting it to the flexplate to make sure there isn't any pressure on the front pump.

Hopefully I'm wrong, but if I'm not the tranny at a minumum now has a ruined front pump and has to come out. Until you get this figured out I wouldn't keep running it as you can also ruin the thrust bearing on the engine crankshaft too.

 

[Anonymous]

+1

Everything Mustang6 just said.

 

[Anonymous]

I know this is a tranny question but I get more responses in this section. I couldnt handle it so I had the car towed to mustang ranch for them to fix it. Only to find out today that they said that my torque converter which is the one that put it was apparently too big( funny it was the smallest one that I could find, but explains why I couldnt get a 3rd notch hit when putting it in), need a nother new seal, and a new input shaft. this comes to a total of 500. but I also need a new bellhousing cause the one I have has a hole in it the size as a silver dollar. and then I am told that my pump gear is ok but it might wear down in the future. now even if it was good the bellhousing would cost an additional 150.00. for a brand new rebult tranny would total 800.00. I decided on the rebuild cause I drive alot now so if it breaks down at least they will repair it for free within a years time. dont want to gamble on things. does anyone think I made a good or bad decision??