i have a i200 just installed a DUI well my mechanic did, my battery keeps draining could this be because he did not wire it correctly, also it did get wet the other day. but i been driving it all day today and at night it did not wont to start just rapid clicking noise from soleoid. any ideas?
engine wont start
- Thread starter 65fall
- Start date
l3n
Well-known member
I'm not sure if I understand the situation, but it sounds like you were driving it with the new dizzy, and after shutting it down, the car won't start any more? Was the engine cooled off when you tried to start it, or was it still hot?
If the relay is clicking, then it sounds like it might be the starter - is the starter spinning when you turn the key? If your timing is off, you could have a heat problem that's causing thermal soak on the starter. That will cause the relay to click without turning the starter, whenever the engine bay gets too hot.
No matter how you wire the distributor, I don't think there's a way to kill your battery (this will be the part when someone else explains how that happens) so if it turns out to be a power supply problem, I think that might just be a coincidence.
If the relay is clicking, then it sounds like it might be the starter - is the starter spinning when you turn the key? If your timing is off, you could have a heat problem that's causing thermal soak on the starter. That will cause the relay to click without turning the starter, whenever the engine bay gets too hot.
No matter how you wire the distributor, I don't think there's a way to kill your battery (this will be the part when someone else explains how that happens) so if it turns out to be a power supply problem, I think that might just be a coincidence.
pedal2themetal45
Famous Member
The clicking sound is usual an indacation its not getting eoungh power.. Check your cables for crosion between the post and the clamp of the cable. thats were most of the probs reside.. the post and the clamp contact spots should be shiney any discoloration well not let it make contact... If it was the starter it wouldn't make any sound or it would just spin and not trun the motor...
Tim
Tim
I think the mechanic may have wired up your power source wrong. Didn't all this start with the DUI install?
Can you see an automotive electrician? Or, to basic check yourself - look for current flow with the key Off. This is easy, remove the battery terminal and then brush it lightly on the post. Look for a small spark.
Or, connect a small lamp (like a turn signal bulb) in series between the post and terminal clamp. If it lights while the key is off, then you have current leaking somewhere.
Can you see an automotive electrician? Or, to basic check yourself - look for current flow with the key Off. This is easy, remove the battery terminal and then brush it lightly on the post. Look for a small spark.
Or, connect a small lamp (like a turn signal bulb) in series between the post and terminal clamp. If it lights while the key is off, then you have current leaking somewhere.
pedal2themetal45
Famous Member
Bad or dirty cable conections can cause the batter to drain as its not getting a full charge from the generator or alternator. I'd check your conections if the batter checks out ok... Maybe have them check the generator or alternator which ever you have. to make sure its putting out..
Tim
Tim
pedal2themetal45
Famous Member
65fall":3kjq7w1o said:
Your not going to hear anything from the starter if the solenoid isn't getting enough power to turn it on. the clicking is the solenoid trying to work but not getting enough power to ingage the starter..
tim
l3n
Well-known member
This is a long shot, and a bad connection is a lot more likely, but since the DUI draws a full 12v, and the stock is something like 6v, if he's running an old generator or low output alternator, could the extra 6v draw be overpowering the charging system?
What kind of effect would it have if they wired up the DUI with the ballast resistor intact? I always thought that would just hurt the dizzy, but would it do anything to the charging system or battery?
What kind of effect would it have if they wired up the DUI with the ballast resistor intact? I always thought that would just hurt the dizzy, but would it do anything to the charging system or battery?
yea it did all start when the DUI was installed thats what i was thinking, but then again i thought how could the DUI draw any current when ignition is off so i just thought it was coincidental. for now i guess i'll get a battery kill swicth so it cut off all current to the battery, problem solved and also somewhat of a theft deterrent. i will also go and do the other things you guys said to check. im such an idiot when it comes to electrical stuff i try to stay away fromm it as far possible, so thats why i wanna take the easy way out with the kill switch
Rustang Racer
Well-known member
It sounds like the control module is wired to an always on power source so it drains the battery when the car is off. It needs to be wired to a source thats on when the key is in the start and on positions. Mine is sliced in right at the ignition switch.
l3n":1taoal0d said:
Yep.
Had a friend with a 57 chebby he 'updated'. The car would stay running until the battery fully charged then the regulator would kick out and it would die (unless the key was still on). I dont remember the details but it had to do with the way things were interconnected with the regulator and key. I dont remember if it was solved with a relay, diode, or just a re wire. We all thought it was kinda cool, sort of an auto battery charger.
One of the easiest ways I've ever found for finding out if you have current draw and what is the source is by performing the following, this is especially easy if you think you know what the source is.
Take the negative terminal loose and put a test light between the cable and the post/terminal. If the light comes on you have a current draw. Then go to what you suspect to be the source and unplug its power supply wires (clips/screws) if your light goes out you have identified the source. You will still have to figure out why that item is the source (bad wiring/bad module) but at least you have a starting point to work out from.
-ron
Take the negative terminal loose and put a test light between the cable and the post/terminal. If the light comes on you have a current draw. Then go to what you suspect to be the source and unplug its power supply wires (clips/screws) if your light goes out you have identified the source. You will still have to figure out why that item is the source (bad wiring/bad module) but at least you have a starting point to work out from.
-ron
Rustang Racer
Well-known member
l3n has a point. I think it would keep running if the control module was wired to constant power. I can't think of any miswiring that might occur while installing the duraspark that would drain the battery but have the car run properly. I agree with coupeboy's advice for tracking down the drain.
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