Favorite Fuel Pump
- Thread starter 66200i6
- Start date
I have to speak out against the Holleys - UNLESS you are running a return style regulator. They need that to avoid what I had happen three times - the rotor twisting on the shaft (it's a press fit) and breaking the commutator connections almost invisibly.
Electrical diaphragm style pumps, such as SU and Facit, work pretty decently. However they make a more pronounced ticking sound.
Electrical diaphragm style pumps, such as SU and Facit, work pretty decently. However they make a more pronounced ticking sound.
grocery getter
Famous Member
Do you really need an electric pump ?
A
Anonymous
Guest
Ric,
Mines just a $50.00 Car Quest inline pump thats mounted back by the fuel tank. It pushes the fuel through a 3/8 line up to the stock pump to a Summit cartridge filter thats mounted on the fire wall.
It delivers a steady 7 psi of fuel at all times.
Later,
Doug
Mines just a $50.00 Car Quest inline pump thats mounted back by the fuel tank. It pushes the fuel through a 3/8 line up to the stock pump to a Summit cartridge filter thats mounted on the fire wall.
It delivers a steady 7 psi of fuel at all times.
Later,
Doug
grocery getter":8y91u9sr said:
I'm with this guy.
I'm running a similar set up as you, and the stock attached pump has never done me wrong in the entire time I've had the car. I have the 65 style, filter on the pump fuel pump. Love it. Nothing fancy, and almost nothing to go wrong...
I've been happy with my carter. It's a bit noisy, but so far it's been running for about three or four years.
66200i6
Famous Member
So in the interest if using the car for our next club meeting and attending a tech session Saturday morning, I installed another elec pump.
I went with the Carter low pressure model. I am much happier with the installation and you can barely hear it. The shop that did the work installed a Mr. Gasket pump. It was installed on the forward left curve of the trunk floor. That was another thing I was not happy with. They drill three holes in the floor of the trunk and install it on the curve from the side to the floor Grrr
. This may have been why it failed. The two mounting tabs were bent around the curve as the bolts were tightened. Now I need to plug the holes before I but in the new mat :roll: . They also left out the safety switch.
There is still a bit of work left to do this correctly. The plan is to rewire & reroute wiring which needs to include the low oil pressure safety switch. I also should upgrade the fuel line from the tank all the way to the new and final carb installation.
Thanks for the quick response guy’s. This helped me make a quick decision and make a quick repair.
Ric.
I went with the Carter low pressure model. I am much happier with the installation and you can barely hear it. The shop that did the work installed a Mr. Gasket pump. It was installed on the forward left curve of the trunk floor. That was another thing I was not happy with. They drill three holes in the floor of the trunk and install it on the curve from the side to the floor Grrr
. This may have been why it failed. The two mounting tabs were bent around the curve as the bolts were tightened. Now I need to plug the holes before I but in the new mat :roll: . They also left out the safety switch.There is still a bit of work left to do this correctly. The plan is to rewire & reroute wiring which needs to include the low oil pressure safety switch. I also should upgrade the fuel line from the tank all the way to the new and final carb installation.
Thanks for the quick response guy’s. This helped me make a quick decision and make a quick repair.
Ric.
66200i6":37yrk3y1 said:
Curious about the thinking behind this.
I understand why it sounds like a good idea, but not sold the practical aspects. I'm assuming it's designed to shut off the fuel pump in case the car loses oil pressure? A couple of questions:
1) Is the pressure adjustable?
2) Does it have a "Start Delay" built in?
3) Does it have any kind of delay for momentary drops?
4) Where does it read the pressure from?
My biggest problem with this kind of 'safety' device is for weird things like my truck. For some reason, the gauge pressure shows 0 psi below 1000rpm. I've swapped gauges, verified this with a mechanical gauge, yet it runs perfectly, doesn't burn oil, and has been doing this for 7 years and 70k miles. If I had a fuel pump linked to the pressure, it would shut off all the time, which is anything but safe.
Now granted, that's an odd ball case. But apply it to old mustangs. Anyone here that has a 200 the burns a little oil, knows if you get a quart or so low and make sudden changes in motion (turns, braking, etc) that your oil light will go on as the pump momentarily loses suction. Without some sort of delay built into the switch, this will kill your fuel pump. Sure, you will have some fuel left in the carb, but will you know the fuel pump is off before the carb runs dry? If so, can you restart the pump while the car is running?
Just curious. It's one of those items, if it was really a safe thing to put on, most modern cars would have it installed already. Now what I would put in is an inertia switch such that if you are in an accident it would stop the fuel (like most modern efi cars have). I just don't like the idea of something being able to turn my fuel pump off other then in an accident or when I turn off the car. Too many situations where it could kill the fuel and leave you dead versus just having a blown engine, or worse yet...kill you because it received a false signal. I'd rather have my oil light come on instead and warn me to stop my car as soon as it is safe to do so.
just my 2 cents.
66200i6
Famous Member
Good point. But until I can come up with a different solution I need to apply some kind of circuit that will shut the pump down in an emergency as soon as possible.
Installing the off the shelf switch for this unit is the quickest and easiest method to make this happen.
I was thinking of using the Stator output of the alternator to drive a relay. This same method is used on truck campers to signal that the engine is running and switch the Fridge to the truck electrical system. Instead of the switching power to the relay coming from the “Key On†position it would come from the Alt turning. It would provide the same result but without the problem you describe with the intermittent oil pressure.
In the mean time “I’m on the road againâ€.
That is sung to “I’m on the road againâ€.
Ric.
Installing the off the shelf switch for this unit is the quickest and easiest method to make this happen.
I was thinking of using the Stator output of the alternator to drive a relay. This same method is used on truck campers to signal that the engine is running and switch the Fridge to the truck electrical system. Instead of the switching power to the relay coming from the “Key On†position it would come from the Alt turning. It would provide the same result but without the problem you describe with the intermittent oil pressure.
In the mean time “I’m on the road againâ€.
That is sung to “I’m on the road againâ€.
Ric.
A
Anonymous
Guest
66200i6":39ygj28h said:So in the interest if using the car for our next club meeting and attending a tech session Saturday morning, I installed another elec pump.
I went with the Carter low pressure model. I am much happier with the installation and you can barely hear it. The shop that did the work installed a Mr. Gasket pump. It was installed on the forward left curve of the trunk floor. That was another thing I was not happy with. They drill three holes in the floor of the trunk and install it on the curve from the side to the floor Grrr
There is still a bit of work left to do this correctly. The plan is to rewire & reroute wiring which needs to include the low oil pressure safety switch. I also should upgrade the fuel line from the tank all the way to the new and final carb installation.
Thanks for the quick response guy’s. This helped me make a quick decision and make a quick repair.
Ric.
Why do you want or need a low oil pressure safety switch?
If you are looking for somthing to shut the pump off in case of an accident just get the inertia switch off of any Ford car or truck from the mid 80's on up.
Thats what they used to kill the pump in case of an rollover accident.
Later,
Doug
66200i6
Famous Member
OK, so I was reviewing the installation directions and found the there was supposed to be a gas filter installed before the pump, there wasn't. This is cited as being the main cause of failure. I know Doug has one installed; does everyone else here have a filter before the pump? If so, what types have you found works well for the area there at the sending unit? I have a transverse mounted muffler so I'm thinking a metal case inline type, if it exists so it doesn’t melt.
Thanks, Ric.
Thanks, Ric.
Hi 66200I6.That is just whatI was going to suggest.A filter BETWEEN the tank and the pump.Ran a setup like that on my 74F100 for at least 6 years with no problems,except the filter plugged up once.Plus had another filter between the pump and carb.Kinda overkill,BUT,it keeps crap out of the carb,and filters ARE definitely CHEAPER and easier to deal with,than carb rebuilds.Hehehehehe.As for mounting the pump,I just used an existing hole in the frame.
Leo
