Favorite Fuel Pump

I'm planning on going to an electric pump one of these days too. I've heard the Carter # 4070 pump is a good high volume/low pressure pump
http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html#webfuel
You should wire in your pump to the oil pressure as a safety switch, last thing you want in an accident is fuel pumping!!! You can run a lead from the START solenoid to the pump, so while your cranking over it's delivering fuel.
Here's a link to a Marine (boating) site that explains
http://www.moyermarine.com/faq/5.9.html
Also make sure you use a relay and a fuse.

I run a inexpensive Fram between my tank and my pump and then a second glass filter between the pump and the carb. I've haven't had to clean the glass filter but the Fram collects a lot of debris. I could only imagine that stuff trying to run through a pump diaphragm.
 
Where would one get one of the glass bowl manual fuel pumps in working order? Would it pump enough to feed a YF on a 200?
 
Williboy":2juk3jvg said:
You should wire in your pump to the oil pressure as a safety switch, last thing you want in an accident is fuel pumping!!! You can run a lead from the START solenoid to the pump, so while your cranking over it's delivering fuel.
Here's a link to a Marine (boating) site that explains
http://www.moyermarine.com/faq/5.9.html
Also make sure you use a relay and a fuse.

I understand the initial reason...but I would fear this would create a bigger safety problem then it would solve as I described above. Boats are different beasts and I know most have an oil pressure kill switch, but most Marine engines (at least outboards) are in the $15k range each for cheap ones. Engines are usually more expensive then the boat, and the boat is usually cheaper to repair. I wouldn't think twice about it for a marine application, but on a car I wouldn't even think of linking the fuel pump to the oil pressure sensor.

Just go get a cheap inertia switch and wire it up to the relay for the fuel pump.
 
I found some specs on a couple of the different oil pressure switches.

Mr. Gasket opens at 15 psi. That is way too high. I have seen pressures at just over 10 at idle.

Carters switch opens at between 2 and 4 psi. At that pressure you could lose your engine as well and still have the pump running.

I like the info I found on an RV site. Some of these big rigs use the output of the Stator on the Alternator to signal a relay that provides 12V to the Frig.

This may work but it will take time to rig up and check out, of which I don’t have.

We’ll see how this develops, Ric.
 
Thanks, Slade. Looks like a great winter project. I saved the info so I don't lose it.

I am however short of free time and there is no way I am going to miss another year of tours and shows. I need to get something install that is safer than power to the pump with the "Key On" control.

I just install a filter back at the pump last night. That is probably why the first one failed.

One thing at a time, Ric.
 
I hear you about short on time. I was doing good until I dislocated my shoulder 10 days ago. So now, in the interest of time, I'm going to drop off my rear differential that is already out of the car, have it rebuilt correctly this time so that by the time I can work under the car, it'll be ready to install.
 
Just because I wanted to do it myself, I ended up spending twice as much and twice the time on my 8" than if I had bit the bullet and had it done. I justify it as "Education is Expensive".

Yea, Yea, that's it! That's the ticket!

Ric.
 
Yeah, this is the last piece of my 2 year suspension/drivetrain upgrade. At this point I just want the car on the road. I swapped differentials only to find out the one sitting in the garage was in worse shape, though it looked and sounded find at first. Now it'll be 3 months before I can crawl under the car again, so I'm just going to take it in, short change my "Educational Experience" in favor of "Driving Experience".
 
Back
Top