oldgrezmonke
Well-known member
Both the block and head #s should be easily visible unless covered with dirt . They should begin with something like C0DE . The block # is between the starter and exhaust a little above the oil pan .
first post/need help
- Thread starter 60falcon144
- Start date
Here are a couple pictures of 2 of my motors. Sorry I don't have exhaust or starters on either one right now, otherwise you'd get a better picture of how visible they are.
This one is a '75 250 and if you look just below the exhaust manifold bolts you will see some letters in the casting
And this one is of a '70 170 that I bought recently. Again, you can see the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange bolt on the edge of the picture.
Yours should be very similar (hopefully less rusty or greasy looking)
The head casting number s hould be on the backside of the intake log. This is a '74 250 head that I bought quite a while back, you can see where the numbers are in relation to the carb mounting hole.
-ron
This one is a '75 250 and if you look just below the exhaust manifold bolts you will see some letters in the casting
And this one is of a '70 170 that I bought recently. Again, you can see the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange bolt on the edge of the picture.
Yours should be very similar (hopefully less rusty or greasy looking)
The head casting number s hould be on the backside of the intake log. This is a '74 250 head that I bought quite a while back, you can see where the numbers are in relation to the carb mounting hole.
-ron
"...under the exhaust manifold..."
go to that side of the car. It'll behind the "down tube" of the exhaust. That's a pipe that comes outta the exh. manifold, (has a donut gasket inside it) that secures the rest of the pipe that goes onto the muffler etc. By behind I mean toward the back of the vehicle.
On the motor is a cast in or stamped on number. It may B hidden by an oil/dirt combo. I hada get some solvent (gas, kero, store bought grease cutter) and a brush to scrub around and find it. Then clean it up to see it. It's worth it to find what is in the vehicle, U never can tell after all these owners & yrs. U don't know the history of all that... The marks will be in capital letter, number, cap ltr, cap ltr. Then 2nd row is mostly all numbers. Both lines grouped together. I think it should say C1XX, meaning (C) 1960, (1) 1961. The Xs = not xs but more ltrs, unknown to me. Let us know what U find sometime (sooner rather than later).
Mine is C8DE & below is 6015-A meaning C - 19(6, 8) - 8, Falcon/Bronco/'stang, etc , E-engine.
The only lrt in the 2nd row I know is A - 170ci motor, I believe.
So for mine - 1968 170 motor in a 1970 vehicle! I had it 27 yrs. & only found out this info when a clutch that matched up w/the vin plate did not fit the motor! I went backwards in my approach to the whole thing... ck out the #s 1st! Even this is not a guarantee but will B alot closer the 1st time.
go to that side of the car. It'll behind the "down tube" of the exhaust. That's a pipe that comes outta the exh. manifold, (has a donut gasket inside it) that secures the rest of the pipe that goes onto the muffler etc. By behind I mean toward the back of the vehicle.
On the motor is a cast in or stamped on number. It may B hidden by an oil/dirt combo. I hada get some solvent (gas, kero, store bought grease cutter) and a brush to scrub around and find it. Then clean it up to see it. It's worth it to find what is in the vehicle, U never can tell after all these owners & yrs. U don't know the history of all that... The marks will be in capital letter, number, cap ltr, cap ltr. Then 2nd row is mostly all numbers. Both lines grouped together. I think it should say C1XX, meaning (C) 1960, (1) 1961. The Xs = not xs but more ltrs, unknown to me. Let us know what U find sometime (sooner rather than later).
Mine is C8DE & below is 6015-A meaning C - 19(6, 8) - 8, Falcon/Bronco/'stang, etc , E-engine.
The only lrt in the 2nd row I know is A - 170ci motor, I believe.
So for mine - 1968 170 motor in a 1970 vehicle! I had it 27 yrs. & only found out this info when a clutch that matched up w/the vin plate did not fit the motor! I went backwards in my approach to the whole thing... ck out the #s 1st! Even this is not a guarantee but will B alot closer the 1st time.
60falcon144
Well-known member
Ok thanks ill check it out after school
60falcon144
Well-known member
Right now all i can find is the head and it says code-6090
oldgrezmonke
Well-known member
That is a 144 head .60falcon144":2mxedoq4 said:
60falcon144
Well-known member
Thanks.
60falcon144
Well-known member
It came from on the intake manifold. And sorry i guess it is C0DE, my bad.
60falcon144
Well-known member
Does anybody know anything about welding? I was looking at getting a flux core welder, I know they dont produce as good of welds as gas but with flux core would it be good enough to weld floor panels and stuff like that? Also i heard painting over a flux weld looks bad afterwards, is that true?
bookworm007
Well-known member
Gas is way better than flux, you will get much nicer and cleaner welds and at least for me it made welding thinner metal easier. You could get away with flux core on floor boards because they will be covered by carpet. But if you have to start working on body panels then go for gas. The best option would be buy a welder with the ability to use shielding gas and use flux core till you can save money for a bottle.
60falcon144
Well-known member
The reason i thought about a flux core was because i wanted a cheap alternative but if all i can use it for is the floor panels i wont even bother. My dads work has a gas one but i just thought it would be easier than having to haul the car down to weld on it
60falcon144
Well-known member
I would drive it to the welder, but I dont think it can get a safety with no brakes and a hole in the floor 
bookworm007
Well-known member
If you have a truck you can usually get a U-Haul car trailer for like 20 bucks to do in town hauling, but that would probably only be worth while if thats the only rust you need to fix or your dad like mine doesnt mind your project sitting around classing up the place a bit. Thats how I got my mustang home except we drove the trailer about 700 miles but they dont keep track of mileage on the trailers 
but they dont keep track of mileage on the trailers
that's Y some work on that stuff 1st. hole can B covered temporarily, so 'mechanical' is the 1st (C earlier suggestions).60falcon144":1jzvy12f said:I would drive it to the welder, but I dont think it can get a safety with no brakes and a hole in the floor
60falcon144
Well-known member
My dad doesnt mind where the car is, its sitting in the driveway 
but getting the car to my dads shop shouldnt be to hard its not to far away. I also wasnt planning on having it to drive for a while, I want to have it pretty much completely finished before i start driving it.
but getting the car to my dads shop shouldnt be to hard its not to far away. I also wasnt planning on having it to drive for a while, I want to have it pretty much completely finished before i start driving it.60falcon144
Well-known member
Here she is....
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