Flex fan, and another header question

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So I've been thinking about putting a flex fan on my 68 200 mustang in hopes of better solving my cooling problem. It has a new 2 row radiator, spliced the carb spacer hoses together, did something (don't remember what exactly) with the thermostat that was in the book, and put on an electric fan. The car does run fairly cool from driving here, and there, but after a 30min drive on the freeway the car is pretty well heated, and leaks a little oil after parking. It seems that it only does that when the car is extremely hot, and I think from the side of the valve cover.

So about this flex fan.... I've heard they do well in helping the cooling, but I've also read about some nasty stories of these fans tearing apart the radiator, or hitting the hood somehow. Would any of you recommend the use of a flex fan, and if yes which do you recommend? I'd like to get one if it helps, but don't want to tear something apart if IT falls apart. Also any other general cooling tips would help greatly! I'm from Az where it gets plenty hot.

Lastly to those of you that have headers I've been reading up on it a bit, but would like to ask a simple request. Could any of you that have headers post pics of your setup, and tell me which header it is? The website and book show 2 very different looking styles of the FSPP header mainly as well as the Pacemaker header. I have an idea of the one I want, but I don't know which it is. Plus I'm looking for set up ideas. For now anything will help out greatly!

Thanks!

-Aaron
 
I don't know if my Flexfan does any better job cooling than an electric fan (never had one on my Mustang), but I can tell you that I have had mine on my car since 1988 without any problems. Granted, the car was off the road from 1992 through 2003, but the fan has over 10,000 miles on it and I am still using it today.
 
From what I understand, your stock fan will outcool a flex fan. Did you add an electric fan or replace your stock fan with it? Stock + electric should be more cooling than you need with a new radiator. If it gets warmer driving on the freeway, you likely have other problems because the fans become inconsequential at highway speeds. If you have an electric in front of the radiator, it may be blocking air from getting thru at highway speeds.
 
Thanks for the replies. I added an electric fan to the front of the radiator, but am still running the stock fan as well. When on the freeway it does a pretty good job of staying cool, but considering it's getting hotter I don't know if it'll get worse. I'll admit what has been done to the car has greatly improved the cooling situation, but I'm always looking for something that might help it even more. As much as I love the car I almost can't take it anywhere for fear of it overheating in traffic. I don't go on the freeway often, but a few weeks ago it was my only car, and didn't do too bad aside from what I've already told you. It does great in other seasons, but in the summer it is usually pretty bad.

I've also heard about using a fan shroud (which I don't have). Would one of those help it to some degree?

About using the electric fan as a puller I'm not too thrilled about doing that. For the time being I'd prefer to keep an engine fan whether stock, or flex.

Thanks for the help so far. Any more help is always appreciated :D

-Aaron
 
an engine driven fan will almost always move more air than an electric, especially when equipped with a shroud.

Generally, unless you have AC (more heat) and extreme heat and humidity, the stock cooling system is capable of handling the engine as is. If you have extremely hot climate and AC, you may need a three or four core rad to handle the added heat load.

If you have problems at highway speed, you need to have the radiator checked (restricted water flow). If you have problems at low speed and idle (restricted air flow), you need to add a shroud.
 
Thank you for the reply. My car doesn't have AC so no worries there. Last summer it happend to get in the 115 degree range, and it's only supposed to getting hotter this summer so I guess you could say I live in an extreme heat climate.

I should also give my car more credit I supposed. At highway speeds with a minimum 100 degrees outside weather and around a 30min drive it does get up there, but it's when I stop when it gets heated up (typical I know that though) It does get a little groggy feeling, but has never blown nor had a surging feeling. The most it really does is look really hot on the gauge, and bit groggy that's it. The radiator is brand new

It's street driving where it gets hotter it seems. I probably need to lower the idle a bit too (anyone know the idle RPM readings in gear offhand?), but when sitting in traffic is when it starts to kick up. Perhaps a shroud is what I need instead.

My real main concern is doing what I can to get the most cooling for the car. It's doing alright for now, but like I said I'm always looking for things I can do to keep it running cool

Thanks for the help so far!

-Aaron
 
granted I am running a large crossflow aluminum 3 row but I don't run a fan.....does get warm if I sit in traffic but it will stay cool in 95 degree weather as long as I am doing about 30 mph. I would look closer at your hoses and radiator
 
aaron...where are you located?

I had an overheating problem that was tricky to find...and YOU HAVE TO FIND IT...because a cool engine lasts much longer

try getting radiator flushed...try changing the belt (ask me how I know)..try retarding the timing a little (or is it advancing)...and LISTEN for water pump squealing...or clacking...

cha
 
Retarding the timing should, under most conditions, make the matter worse. Check your upper and bottom hoses - sometimes they get soft under heat and will collapse (choking flow), especially on the side leading to the water pump.

Do you have any reason to believe you have a buildup within your waterjackets?
 
My timing seemed to have slipped (retarded) a little, when I got it back up (12) it ran noticeably cooler...
 
Thank you all for the replies again! It is certainly appreciated :)

I changed the radiator hoses when I bought the car which was about 2 years ago. I didn't think they could go that fast, but I'll check that today. As for buildup in the waterjacks there could be, but we did clean it when the car was bought since it wasn't running at the time.

The car has a load list of brand new parts including a radiator aside from internal engine components. The head was taken off once from a blown head gasket so we did clean the head up a bunch.

I'm from Tempe, Arizona so in the summertimes it does get pretty hot here. I'd say where I have the most problem heating up is when I've been driving streets for a little while, or stuck in traffic.

The timing is at stock specs, but if I remember right it used to "hop" around a bit. That was before we put in a brand new distributor so I don't know if it still does it. I'll look into that and the hoses as well.

I could be paranoid about this, but I'm used to seeing other peoples car (like my brothers 72 Nova) stay at good temperature reading while I see mine gradually climb (not fast at all) with continued driving. Hasn't ever popped yet, but always looking something to beat the heat down here.

Thanks for the help everyone so far!

-Aaron

P.s. I'm gonna look into getting a shroud too
 
Could any of you that have headers post pics of your setup, and tell me which header it is? The website and book show 2 very different looking styles of the FSPP header mainly as well as the Pacemaker header. I have an idea of the one I want, but I don't know which it is. Plus I'm looking for set up ideas. For now anything will help out greatly!
Click to expand...

I have the Hooker 6601 Super Comp's in a '61 Comet. They go out the collectors to stainless flex-fittings, then to JC Whitney "turbo" muffflers, then to a Y combiner , then to a cable operated dump valve which allows for either the big side pipe in front of Rt wheel or original pipe to glasspack in original muffler location to original tailpipe location (although 2"). I can drive stealth quiet with a low rumble or out the "turbo's" and dump to give a much louder attitude.


http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v296/ ... 0PROGRESS/


Powerband 8)
 
Tempe is one of those "extreme" climates. Ford routinely fitted an upgraded radiator to cars sold in those parts, normally a three row radiator vs. the standard two row.
 
I don't have A/C either, but Went three row with a 7 blade fan 6 years ago. No problems since and it does get hot here in Vegas in the summer.
 
The June 2006 "Mustang Monthly" has a pretty good article on page 44 entitled "How to Choose a Cooling Fan."

Lots of good info in there. Six pages long.

Cheers,
Steve-O
 
Thanks for the replies again!

powerband that is quite an interesting set up. Very nice I think. I've always wondered if anyone had a switch out system like you've implemented. Awesome headers too! The ones that route underneath the car are the type i'm looking for, but hooker might be a bit too costly for me at this point. Overall very nice, and thank you for sharing!

I went to SoCal today looking for a shroud, and they told me that Ford never made one for the six because of the offset engine. The only one he had heard of was for a rare 68 California Special with an inline six. Now i've read/heard that people use shrouds for their cars, but what application is used for the 68 mustang six?

The only other option I might have to look into is maybe a 3 row radiator. Speaking of which to those who have 3 row (or even 4 row) radiators did you need to get a shorter fan spacer? If so where did you find one, and what did it come off of (if junkyard)?

I did check out my hoses today, and they were a bit soft so those will be replaced soon. I'll pick up a mustang monthly magazine too!

Thanks for the help once again!

-Aaron

P.s. Forgive me if I know not much about sixes. Aside from replacing bad parts I've never gone into the realm of upgrading, or improving for my car. Not sure what can be found, or applied.
 
I don't have a good fan clearance solution, but I wanted to recommend paying attention to the transmission coolant lines if you go 3 row as is. My lines were the original steel ones, when maneuvering them back the 1/2 inch or so to insert into the new rad, gentle as I was, they cracked in a couple spots and I ended up having to replace them all. Guess it was good thing to replace them, just something that came up when I did that switch that I didn't plan for.
 
What supplier did you fellows find that carries a 3 row radiator???

Or did you have a local radiator shop make a 3 row using the original 2 row top tanks??? Advise William
 
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