Hey! Addo thanks for leading, no double leading me in the right direction. The guy who lent me the engine lift came around to snoop (its his brother's lift) and make sure I was making progress and then told me how to make it simpler.
I read the Chilton's and Haynes books and niether one goes into specific detail, but I guess I could have picked through the different sections and figured out the logical process, but those big bolts through the subframe intimidated me. 7/16" diameter and rotten. Then to top it off, Ford patronized Canada's adopted Metric system and had the head in Metric, but the nuts in Inch. Lucky I had both and in 6-point, not 12-point sockets.
About the cold. If its cloudy and no wind, you can work for about 2 hours down to -5C (20F), with a 25 mph or more wind, about 30 minutes, at -10C (12F) about 10 minutes. Some macho guys around here are wandering with chipped ears that froze off, or fingers lost.
I'm sure you've got good weather services. But I check two every day. Environment Canada is the government service and the Weather Channel (A US service - it gives hourly estimates and 14-day estimates). The Canadian one has equipment here at the Airport only. The Weather Channel use media weather stations (CBC/CTV) which are usually downtown. The difference is that the Airport is always about 2 degrees (centrigrade) colder. Both of them offer international forecasts too.
Its one tool that doesn't show up in the manuals, but here it means survival. Although I'll bet the bodyshops watch humidity ratings in southern or oceanside cities.
BTW, Winnipeg is dead center (Longitude and Latitude) of North America!
Here's the links:
Environment Canada set for Winnipeg but you can check most world cities: http://weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/city/page ... ric_e.html
Weather Channel (for Winnipeg, too):
http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weathe ... MB0244.htm
I read the Chilton's and Haynes books and niether one goes into specific detail, but I guess I could have picked through the different sections and figured out the logical process, but those big bolts through the subframe intimidated me. 7/16" diameter and rotten. Then to top it off, Ford patronized Canada's adopted Metric system and had the head in Metric, but the nuts in Inch. Lucky I had both and in 6-point, not 12-point sockets.
About the cold. If its cloudy and no wind, you can work for about 2 hours down to -5C (20F), with a 25 mph or more wind, about 30 minutes, at -10C (12F) about 10 minutes. Some macho guys around here are wandering with chipped ears that froze off, or fingers lost.
I'm sure you've got good weather services. But I check two every day. Environment Canada is the government service and the Weather Channel (A US service - it gives hourly estimates and 14-day estimates). The Canadian one has equipment here at the Airport only. The Weather Channel use media weather stations (CBC/CTV) which are usually downtown. The difference is that the Airport is always about 2 degrees (centrigrade) colder. Both of them offer international forecasts too.
Its one tool that doesn't show up in the manuals, but here it means survival. Although I'll bet the bodyshops watch humidity ratings in southern or oceanside cities.
BTW, Winnipeg is dead center (Longitude and Latitude) of North America!
Here's the links:
Environment Canada set for Winnipeg but you can check most world cities: http://weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/city/page ... ric_e.html
Weather Channel (for Winnipeg, too):
http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weathe ... MB0244.htm
Well you're certainly an ambitious fellow. 
My car needs to have some stuff done, but when it gets cold like this (and it ain't that bad yet!) my need to procrastinate and hibernate 'til spring sets in.
I have got to get over there and get some pics of this project... 8)
And I've got a Ford shop manual you can peruse.
My car needs to have some stuff done, but when it gets cold like this (and it ain't that bad yet!) my need to procrastinate and hibernate 'til spring sets in.
I have got to get over there and get some pics of this project... 8)
And I've got a Ford shop manual you can peruse.
Yeah! JackFish. Coffee's hot.
I'm taking off the K-Member on mine today. I hope Adam's Supply have equivalent bolts or that mine are in perfect shape, because Parkside told me they can't get a lot of stuff for the older cars. I read somewhere on this site that the Fox Bodies ran until the mid-nineties, so these kinds of bolts should be available generically. It's the nuts (with clips) that are the security factor. Once they're torqued down, those clips seem to do the retention job (almost too well!)
I'm taking off the K-Member on mine today. I hope Adam's Supply have equivalent bolts or that mine are in perfect shape, because Parkside told me they can't get a lot of stuff for the older cars. I read somewhere on this site that the Fox Bodies ran until the mid-nineties, so these kinds of bolts should be available generically. It's the nuts (with clips) that are the security factor. Once they're torqued down, those clips seem to do the retention job (almost too well!)
JackFish, I'm parting out the car to keep some inventory of good parts for repairs later. I don't know of anybody with a 2 door sedan in town, but I'll remove the glass (rear-heated window, rear side windows, door glass) The body is toast. It's a bondo-buggy.
I'll let the folks at Parkside know too. But the mirrors, hood and hinges, are all fine. I've taken out the Factory AC out of mine. It worked fine. But I'm keeping the heater. It has a nicer cirulation system than the standard heater. The cold air vents direct warm air in winter and mine has two extra dash mounted vents in the center for warm/cool air. They're vacuum actuated too.
In Mexico they don't seal the cars with rear-heated wagon windows, but mine was broken 3 times by local kids that the only tinted replacement they could find came with the heater strips, so I pulled all the circuitry to wire mine up. Mine has the rear wiper and washer too, so I'll have a few things to do.
I kept the buckets from the '78 too, and may tackle an upholstery job (used to own a shop in the mid-sixties before going to University). I've done a few of my cars before, and nobody sits over the hump in my car anyway. I'll just lock up the backs to make them secure.
I kept the rotors, discs, calipers, brake reservoir (they were all replaced in April). I'm debating about cutting my fender well for the Fresh Air Intake ductwork. It's stamped on mine, but not cut open. That fender on the donor car seems to be the only one that survived the rust better than anything else. (I'll bet it was an Ontario car before it got here.)
Anyway, storage is a problem, but I'll hang onto them for a while. All the glass is tinted.
I'll keep the windshield, mine is original and has a couple of small chips. It took 3 months to get the rear window and the one rear side glass (November 2005 to March 2006), so here I was duct-taping for all those months. Yuk! Right in the winter, too. Its a good heater!
I kept the old one (from the donor car) and its in good shape too, mainly in case the heater core dies on mine.
After seeing this donor car, I figure mine is good for another 10 years at least, so stocking up now makes sense. I'm boxing the smaller parts and wrapping them in an oil-impregnated paper to avoid corrosion. Our basement is dry, and we have some room in my workshop, more when I get the media room dug out from the crawlspace, next summer.
I'm getting the restoration bite again, but this cold won't let me do the detailing I'd like to do. It's our only car so I don't have much choice.
I'll tell you one thing though, my wife isn't doing as much Xmas shopping without the car. Hey, Hey!
It's got a full set of new (March 2006) All-Season radials too. Mine has new (August 2006) ones too, so I don't need these. I'm keeping the spare so I can mount some real snow tires. Wheels are hard to come by at a decent price. $40 bucks each? nope.
Anyway, when you come over, have a look-see at what's here. If you hear of any Fairmont owner needing parts, ask them to give me a call.
And one taillight frame (passenger side) is OK. The other got wiped off when it was rear-ended.
It's a 1978 two-door sedan (burgandy?), not the two-door coupe FYI.
I'll have to putter to Minute-Muffler to get them to braise in the exhaust pipe into my 302 system. He replaced his last November, I had mine done in May with my new brakes. The front pipe (200ci) is not even rusty! and neither is mine. The accident broke off the rest of his. They both go into the tranny cross-member at the same place so it should be simple enough. I'll just cut enough to slip it in a few inches so they can do the final tweaks.
I think another difference with the Mexican plant is the undercoating. Many oh man they did right on mine. It's like diaper doo. But there are many subtle differences in assembly that helped my car to stand up to Mexico's heat and humidity until 1999, and 7 years here (mostly city driving), in our cold. I wash out the salt after every major snowfall, too of course. Lots of Lock De-Icer and Graphite in this house!
Oh yeah, my car got a new ignition after the last attempt at stealing it, but the door locks didn't match, so I'm going to install them from the 1978. The trunk lock can be used too (maybe a bit of tweaking).
Looking forward to meeting you!
I'll let the folks at Parkside know too. But the mirrors, hood and hinges, are all fine. I've taken out the Factory AC out of mine. It worked fine. But I'm keeping the heater. It has a nicer cirulation system than the standard heater. The cold air vents direct warm air in winter and mine has two extra dash mounted vents in the center for warm/cool air. They're vacuum actuated too.
In Mexico they don't seal the cars with rear-heated wagon windows, but mine was broken 3 times by local kids that the only tinted replacement they could find came with the heater strips, so I pulled all the circuitry to wire mine up. Mine has the rear wiper and washer too, so I'll have a few things to do.
I kept the buckets from the '78 too, and may tackle an upholstery job (used to own a shop in the mid-sixties before going to University). I've done a few of my cars before, and nobody sits over the hump in my car anyway. I'll just lock up the backs to make them secure.
I kept the rotors, discs, calipers, brake reservoir (they were all replaced in April). I'm debating about cutting my fender well for the Fresh Air Intake ductwork. It's stamped on mine, but not cut open. That fender on the donor car seems to be the only one that survived the rust better than anything else. (I'll bet it was an Ontario car before it got here.)
Anyway, storage is a problem, but I'll hang onto them for a while. All the glass is tinted.
I'll keep the windshield, mine is original and has a couple of small chips. It took 3 months to get the rear window and the one rear side glass (November 2005 to March 2006), so here I was duct-taping for all those months. Yuk! Right in the winter, too. Its a good heater!
I kept the old one (from the donor car) and its in good shape too, mainly in case the heater core dies on mine.
After seeing this donor car, I figure mine is good for another 10 years at least, so stocking up now makes sense. I'm boxing the smaller parts and wrapping them in an oil-impregnated paper to avoid corrosion. Our basement is dry, and we have some room in my workshop, more when I get the media room dug out from the crawlspace, next summer.
I'm getting the restoration bite again, but this cold won't let me do the detailing I'd like to do. It's our only car so I don't have much choice.
I'll tell you one thing though, my wife isn't doing as much Xmas shopping without the car. Hey, Hey!
It's got a full set of new (March 2006) All-Season radials too. Mine has new (August 2006) ones too, so I don't need these. I'm keeping the spare so I can mount some real snow tires. Wheels are hard to come by at a decent price. $40 bucks each? nope.
Anyway, when you come over, have a look-see at what's here. If you hear of any Fairmont owner needing parts, ask them to give me a call.
And one taillight frame (passenger side) is OK. The other got wiped off when it was rear-ended.
It's a 1978 two-door sedan (burgandy?), not the two-door coupe FYI.
I'll have to putter to Minute-Muffler to get them to braise in the exhaust pipe into my 302 system. He replaced his last November, I had mine done in May with my new brakes. The front pipe (200ci) is not even rusty! and neither is mine. The accident broke off the rest of his. They both go into the tranny cross-member at the same place so it should be simple enough. I'll just cut enough to slip it in a few inches so they can do the final tweaks.
I think another difference with the Mexican plant is the undercoating. Many oh man they did right on mine. It's like diaper doo. But there are many subtle differences in assembly that helped my car to stand up to Mexico's heat and humidity until 1999, and 7 years here (mostly city driving), in our cold. I wash out the salt after every major snowfall, too of course. Lots of Lock De-Icer and Graphite in this house!
Oh yeah, my car got a new ignition after the last attempt at stealing it, but the door locks didn't match, so I'm going to install them from the 1978. The trunk lock can be used too (maybe a bit of tweaking).
Looking forward to meeting you!
Got my K-member out just an hour after sundown (done at 5:30 PM). Man the cold takes the lead out. I didn't even stop for a smoke!
Well, my luck is running on 12 cylinders. My two front springs were broken in 2 places (explains the odd 'clunks' I hears occasionally. The Donor car has perfect springs! The donor car's K-Member bolts were NFG and mine were perfect! Superficial rust on the top side (Nut end), and even the lower ones were rust-free!
JackFish! It was great to meet you today. Looking forward to seeing the pics you took. (Hoping Mrs. Claus looks into a few tips I gave her about Digital Cameras).
Snow and -9C tonite, so I'll prep some other parts until Tuesday. What a crazy winter, so far. We're 10 degrees above normal right now, and way below our normal snowfall. Hope it doesn't hurt our wheatbasket farmers.
Well, my luck is running on 12 cylinders. My two front springs were broken in 2 places (explains the odd 'clunks' I hears occasionally. The Donor car has perfect springs! The donor car's K-Member bolts were NFG and mine were perfect! Superficial rust on the top side (Nut end), and even the lower ones were rust-free!
JackFish! It was great to meet you today. Looking forward to seeing the pics you took. (Hoping Mrs. Claus looks into a few tips I gave her about Digital Cameras).
Snow and -9C tonite, so I'll prep some other parts until Tuesday. What a crazy winter, so far. We're 10 degrees above normal right now, and way below our normal snowfall. Hope it doesn't hurt our wheatbasket farmers.
I found a very authoritative document on K-Members when I was snooping for details on suspension and the bolts. Thought it might help others. Very informative!
The page is an extract from a book by Bentley Publishers, called "The Official Ford Mustang 5.0 Technical Reference and Performance Handbook":
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/galler ... leryId=163
The page is an extract from a book by Bentley Publishers, called "The Official Ford Mustang 5.0 Technical Reference and Performance Handbook":
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/galler ... leryId=163
This forum topic is acting more like a log of events, but I think my experience may help others.
I replaced the K-Member bolts. Mine were reusable but I figured for the $12.00 (CDN)$ for all 4, it's another margin of safety. This supplier has a self-serve rack system and I picked what appeared to be OK, but I had one of the rusty nuts with me (broke off the metal clip from the donor car) and the first bolt turned out to be an Inch-based thread. Too sloppy. So the counter-guy checked and found some metric-thread bolts. Also got flat washers for the head. The nuts are self-locking.
My shocks are in great shape, so they'll go one, as will my V-eight sway bar. I doused them with WD-40 tonight, to remove tomorrow. The shop manuals all say to replace the sway bar link bolts and nuts. The original ones look like a Grade 5 - 3/8" X 9" long (1.5" of thread) Need washers on head and reuse the grommet cup disc under the self-locking nut.
BTW, one post elsewhere on FSP expressed doubts that the 6 cyl K-member might not bolt right into the V-eight car. It bolts in perfectly!
Cut off the V-eight Y-Pipe with my sawzall and saved the fluted end to insert and adapt the 200 ci pipe from the manifold. I read somewhere that larger exhaust diameter pipes might mean lower fuel savings. My V-eight is the standard factory diameter front to back. The original 200 ci system seems about 1/4" smaller. May have to use a sleeve temporarily until I get to the muffler shop.
I replaced the K-Member bolts. Mine were reusable but I figured for the $12.00 (CDN)$ for all 4, it's another margin of safety. This supplier has a self-serve rack system and I picked what appeared to be OK, but I had one of the rusty nuts with me (broke off the metal clip from the donor car) and the first bolt turned out to be an Inch-based thread. Too sloppy. So the counter-guy checked and found some metric-thread bolts. Also got flat washers for the head. The nuts are self-locking.
My shocks are in great shape, so they'll go one, as will my V-eight sway bar. I doused them with WD-40 tonight, to remove tomorrow. The shop manuals all say to replace the sway bar link bolts and nuts. The original ones look like a Grade 5 - 3/8" X 9" long (1.5" of thread) Need washers on head and reuse the grommet cup disc under the self-locking nut.
BTW, one post elsewhere on FSP expressed doubts that the 6 cyl K-member might not bolt right into the V-eight car. It bolts in perfectly!
Cut off the V-eight Y-Pipe with my sawzall and saved the fluted end to insert and adapt the 200 ci pipe from the manifold. I read somewhere that larger exhaust diameter pipes might mean lower fuel savings. My V-eight is the standard factory diameter front to back. The original 200 ci system seems about 1/4" smaller. May have to use a sleeve temporarily until I get to the muffler shop.
Oh Yes, the current temp is -11C and Sunny going to -3C and sunny. 
)
Picking up a few parts today and dropping the 200 ci into mine. I'm shooting for Christmas Day ignition.
)Picking up a few parts today and dropping the 200 ci into mine. I'm shooting for Christmas Day ignition.
I am so glad I bought a good socket set (Sears Craftsman) because I broke the 1/2" ratchet. Those strut bolts are a beast to get off. I was using a 3' pipe and snap went the ratchet inners. AND the best part is they have the parts right here (no waiting)!
Any, I did get the sway bar from mine back in. You have to use new End Links. If the old ones come off, they're bent anyway. They aren't made like a Grade 8 bolt. Besides the rubber grommets are all distorted anyway.
I made a list of all the pending mini-tasks left, so that I can do them in order and not have to disassemble. I wanna make sure I get the giggling pin in the laughing shaft. It's too damn cold to undo stuff. Christmas Day is heading down to -15C, and January looks like it'll be the real start of our Prairie Winter (-20's to -40's) and snow and wind. OK? Addo?
Any, I did get the sway bar from mine back in. You have to use new End Links. If the old ones come off, they're bent anyway. They aren't made like a Grade 8 bolt. Besides the rubber grommets are all distorted anyway.
I made a list of all the pending mini-tasks left, so that I can do them in order and not have to disassemble. I wanna make sure I get the giggling pin in the laughing shaft. It's too damn cold to undo stuff. Christmas Day is heading down to -15C, and January looks like it'll be the real start of our Prairie Winter (-20's to -40's) and snow and wind. OK? Addo?
You probably get some international news stations, right! We have an annual Polar Bear Swim here on January ONE. They usually feature one of the warmer cities, but some actually break up 18-20 inches of ice to make the 'dip'.
I did it in University. My voice didn't change, but man was I red. 8 minutes in -2C slush is brutal! If they have a news item on our news media, I'll send you a link!
There did that give you shivers in your skivvies?
Got the carb (1946 Holley) apart and soaking in varsol. The inside was clean, but the outside was really pitted from road salt. We use it a lot here, in the last 15 years. Manitoba is still one of the best places to find old, very old, very very old cars and trucks! (If you can see them through the grain fields.)
Now I know why the Fairmonts had those thin synthetic shields hanging off the frone frame, in front of the swaybar - reduces splashing coming into the engine compartment from the wheels. I'll bet they help keep the incoming cool air more focussed on the engine too.
I'll make a couple up from the plastic fender wells from the donor car.
I did it in University. My voice didn't change, but man was I red. 8 minutes in -2C slush is brutal! If they have a news item on our news media, I'll send you a link!
There did that give you shivers in your skivvies?
Got the carb (1946 Holley) apart and soaking in varsol. The inside was clean, but the outside was really pitted from road salt. We use it a lot here, in the last 15 years. Manitoba is still one of the best places to find old, very old, very very old cars and trucks! (If you can see them through the grain fields.)
Now I know why the Fairmonts had those thin synthetic shields hanging off the frone frame, in front of the swaybar - reduces splashing coming into the engine compartment from the wheels. I'll bet they help keep the incoming cool air more focussed on the engine too.
I'll make a couple up from the plastic fender wells from the donor car.
Hey! hey! Got the struts back in, and the brakes and wheels! Getting parts cleaned up tonight to intall motor & Tranny tomorrow. (Addo, its gonna be -4C tomorrow, -6C on Sunday, Christmas Day is too cold - 15C.)
: :mrgreen:
JackFish, That's affirmative on the dibs for the 302. I can't see the pics though.
xtasy, do you mean the cool weather or the 'air-conditioned floor (rusted-out)?
xtasy, do you mean the cool weather or the 'air-conditioned floor (rusted-out)?
Stormin' Norman":2qr4o75i said:
Both. And all that remains of the awesome old rusty Fox. I love those things.....they are light and were, just like the old Falcons, designed as the ultimate 'throw-away car'. You could add a plated floor with check plate like they use on custom pick-ups, and still be lighter than any other compact.
What I loved about the cars of 1977 to 1983 was how much lighter they were than the cars they replaced. Our 79 Falcon lost 255 pounds and gained 0.5 mpg just from that weight loss. Our Fox Mustang sized Cortina was 70 pounds lighter with a similar K member, but no struts.
These days, a car of Fox Fairmont size weighs in 1000 pound heavier, and we call that progress. If you want to save 2 mpg, just loose half a ton!
Dough!
JackFish, I read somewhere that the early Mexican 302 has 5 mains. My dad was GM at a huge pick and pull in British Columbia and told me that the 351's came in two flavours. 4 main and 5 main for the Mustangs and some luxury Mercs and Country Squire Wagons. Mine is a Country Squire.
My car was built in September 1978 - beginning of the model year run. So there's a good chance (I haven't removed the pan.)
My car was built in September 1978 - beginning of the model year run. So there's a good chance (I haven't removed the pan.)
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