getting the motor ready for aluminium

[170-3tree]

Thanks bubba. It's been a long two years to this point, whoa, four. Okay so time flies. Haha.

FSD, thank you. I know there isn't a leaner jet for these carbs so hopefully it doesn't get too rich. I just wanted to get a small arsenal of possible jets so I can ensurevi don't go over my time budget before she hits the dyno in a few weeks. Also, I still need a viable and inexpensive source for jets if anyone can point me in some direction there?

Thank you,
Gerald.

 

[170-3tree]

Quick question, what temp thermostat do yall run with the aluminum?
I used to run 185 on the cast.

Also, how do yall feel on iridium plugs? I liked them on the cast with the DUI, but not sure what they are like with aluminium?

Thank you,
Gerald

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

If you like them fine , but I used to be in a position where I got to try out all the new stuff , remember splitfires , well , to make a long story short , there is no better plug ,all the special plugs work , but no better than a reg plug , the correct heat range IS the important deal , brand wise or electrode style doesn't show up on a time slip ( the iridium do last longer ) but you have to justify the expense , also keeping a plug in place for 100,000 miles has proved to be problematic for the owners of the vehicles ( threads come out with the plugs or they don't come out at all ) if it was me, Id start with an Auto lite 3924 and go from there

 

[170-3tree]

I thought the iridiums allowed for a bit wider gaps?

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

Unless your running extremely lean mixtures wide gaps are of no help ( the reason the factory did it ) a .045 is fine and doesn't tax the rest of the system ( spark looks for the easiest path to ground ) My 10 Second Blown Car was a test bed for lots of so called go fast /power /mpg gimmicks , Iridium lasts long , that's its only benefit and then NOT for a boosted app , neither is platinum for that matter

 

[170-3tree]

Okay, I will use them just because I have five really good ones with 2k on them.

Then its thermostat and oils and such which I am open to advice on if anyone has some?

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

If the Engine is going in a pre mid 80's vehicle , start with a 180 , if it runs too cold , go 195 , as for oil I like the Diesel 15w40 Shell or Mobil Del vac , as they have enough of zinc to protect the cam and lifters and still be reasonable in their price and availability

 

[170-3tree]

Okay well as always, it isn't going quite like butter gettin everything prepped for the engine. Decided to do the throttle first, as it provides more working room under the hood. I finally have all the little bits needed to get this thing done and also have a few questions.

On the intake manifold, I feel like there should be a gasket to the head? Should I try to fashion one or use rtv? Same with the carb adapter to the manifold?
The gas pedal will probably be my biggest obstacle for the rest of the build, as I'm so unsure of where to put it, but ordered a spacer for it to make sure I have enough travel.

 

[170-3tree]

Bump.
I still need to know if I should do some sort of gasketry for the intake manifold and carb adapter?
Thank you.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

I would lay a bead of ( " The Right Stuff " ) and call it a day , that's what I have on my triple offy carb manifold

 

[170-3tree]

Awesome. Thank you, wasn't sure if it would seal up right on its own.

Since I had a day off today and got bored, I polished the fins on the intake. Took about five hours, but it looks really good. I am now deciding on setting black between the fins to set it off a bit more. Will update my pics link above as soon as possible

 

[170-3tree]

Another quick question.

How much pedal travel should I make sure to have before installing the cable throttle? Figure ask now rather than get angry when I don't put enough in there.

Thanks all!

 

[bubba22349]

The pedal should have plenty of travel built into it leverage ratio, Install pedal so is in a comfortable position. All the adjustment is at the carb make the bracket so that cable has a little slack with the carb at idle and so that it pulls in a straight line.

 

[170-3tree]

On my floor there are a few places to put it that would work, but some offer about an inch of press and some three. I'm using a lokar pedal not a pedal from another car. And I also bought a 3/4" spacer to be sure. I just figured there wad some minimal travel I should shoot for.

Thanks you.

 

[bubba22349]

I usally use a ford pedal assembly so cant be that exact but looks like they have differant styles most seem to have lots of pull. Than depends on ratio 2 to 1 etc. than the travel would need to be enough to open throdel fully, some carbs are different but roughly 2 to 2 1/2 inches of pull would be close. Pedal mounted to give that amount of pull by time it's touching floor dont forget to add for carpet and padding if its not installed.

 

[170-3tree]

Well everyone, it runs. Took a little longer than I had hoped to get slight adjustments done.
Kinda surprises me that after decking the block .045 I need longer pushrods, or high ratio arms, which will have to wait a little either way. I don't have ANY tuning equipment at the moment so having it running a little rough is all I can ask for now. But revving it up a little, you can really tell that things are freed up a lot more than before the rebuild.

I can't wait to get those first thousand miles out of the way so I can open her up a bit but even now all the work, planning, and money is more than worth it.

 

[Gene Fiore]

I can't wait to get those first thousand miles out of the way so I can open her up a bit but even now all the work, planning, and money is more than worth it.

Thousand miles??? I had mine at the drag strip after about 300 or so...

 

[170-3tree]

I will likely get progressively aggressive driving the first thousand, but it is common practice for me to be nice during the first oil change. That's usually 500, but the zddp additive I used said to do 1000. Just trusting the moneymakers here.

 

[170-3tree]

Well I got all my diagnostic equipment, timing light etc, and found out that, either my timing is WAYYYY advanced at around 90* or the balancer slipped, I would just time it by vacuum but I believe that could begin to get hazardous when driving, and basically set me up for detonation or preginition. So I ordered a new balancer and now am on a quest to find a low profile puller so I may not have to pull the radiator to get at it.

So if anyone has a part number and location for such a puller, that would be awesome, if not, and my quest returns empty, I will drop the radiator and do it the old fashioned way. Thanks all!!!
Gerald.

 

[bubba22349]

I use a New Britain combo harmonic balancer / gear puller that have been using for many years don’t know the part number it was bought at NAPA. Here is a budget version to show what they look like. If you have about 6 inches or more from the dampner bolt head (and washer removed) to radiator you should be able to leave the radiator in place after you move it a ¼ inch or so you should be able to pull it by hand. You could also just remark your balancer after finding true TDC using the old piston stop method.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 37824.html