Heater Problems

[cargeke]

They weren't capped. They were attached to the carb heater.

 

[gearhead138]

If there is no restrictions in the connections, and your thermostat is good then it must be the waterpump. Unless your new heater system has a water control valve on it and it's not open all the way.

 

[Falcon Ranch]

OK, I will give my 2 cents here if you don't mind...I completely rebuilt and restored my whole heater/cooling system and still had no heat...I mean every component was brand new!...it wasn't until I was doing a carb upgrade that I noticed the carb base with the hose connections was clogged up in the middle...because it is made from aluminum it had corroded really bad...after I cleaned this part out, my heater actually gets too hot now...I am also using a 180 T-stat...hope this helps.

Dave

 

[cargeke]

I think I finally fixed the problem. After changing the thermostat, blocking the radiator, and checking the system for blockages, the only thing left was the water pump, so I pulled the pump. The impeller looked brand new, but the housing was pretty corroded. Got the new pump and put it in and the problem seems to be fixed. All the water hoses get a lot hotter than with the old pump. Thanks to everyone for their help!

 

[fordconvert]

Im running my 75 caddy with 2/3 of the radiator blocked. I got the cardboard between the ac condenser and radiator so I know there is not any extra air sneaking through. I should have my friend that is a heat exchanger engineer make me a graph to show how much ambient temps effect the exchange rates. On mine the slight bypass through the radiator and the heater core appear to be plenty to keep the motor cool with these wonderful 0-10*F temps we have had the last few weeks. It also does not help that I never got around to putting carpet back in, those bare metal floors seem to transfer the cold pretty good.