Holley 2300 1" spacer/adaptor

[LameHoof65]

I am looking to fabricate my own adaptor spacer. Here is my thinking a 1" thick piece of alum. flat bar (just purchased). I would have my machinist cut out the piece to match the base of the 2300 carb. I would have 5/16" holes drilled and tapped for studs to fit the 3/8" holes in the carb base. I am thinking probably 16 pitch and coarse threads for the studs. Have the machinist drill two 1 & 1/2 in. holes in the center and then open up and bevel the top of the two holes to about 1 & 3/4 or more to allow the 2300 throttle plates room to open. Then I would center the plate over my direct mount log and determine where to drill recessed holes and fasten it down with allen head screws relatively close to the openings.

I want to also be able to use this adaptor for the H/W 5200. And what do you think I should be willing to pay a machinist to cut out the shape and drill/tap the holes? I figure 2 setups in a drill press about $30.00 and that they can cut the shape with a metal bandsaw (about 5 to 10 min.) and about $15.00 and so I think a reasonable price would be $45.00.Now having said all this --- is this the way you would do it or would you go looking for a regular 1" holley 2300 spacer and pay about $40.00 for it?

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

why a 1" spacer? a 1/2" one would prob be enough. then you could just lay it on your milled head and drill/tap the holes

 

[Hot 6t Falcon]

If you have a PC, Try right clicking on the drawing and saving the drawing to your picture file. Then you can print it out. I don't know what to do if you have an Apple.

This drawing was for a H/W adapter. The reason the carb hole is offset was to clear the valve cover. I don't remember right now why I had the hole (with the "check" mark). The "checked" side goes next to the valve cover. Basically, lay a H/W gasket on your plate and trace around it.

The "ears" are to bolt the adapter to the head. Lay a stock Ford one barrel gasket in place and trace that gasket.

Since you have the 1" plate, you can do a bunch of the work yourself. (It is called "Bonding" with your car - BG) After you are darn sure of the outer plate dimension cut the outsside shape using a hand-held saber saw and and a vice. (you could buy both for less than you'll pay a machinist.

I then drill a pilot hole through the carb bore hole and use the saw to enlarge it to size. You can also drill the "ear" bolt holes. They don't get tapped. I pulled the studs out of the intake manifold and used countersunk Allen bolts to hold the adapter down.

I bought a bit that drills and taps the bolt holes at the same time - but you need a drill press and its special vice to do that. You might have the machinist drill and tap the holes. He can counter sink the "ear" holes too - it takes a special bit to have a flat bottom surface...

Now to put a Holley 2300 on it, buy an adapter like this. (I get mine a swap meets for a dollar or two. You can also get them at parts stores (Summit) but then they cost $. Dummy this and the H/W adapter onto the manifold BEFORE you start to check for valve cover clearance.

Good Luck

 

[JackFish]

This drawing was for a H/W adapter.

This is for a stang or falcon right? I'm not familiar with their throttle cable setup.

On a fairmont would the carb not have to be 90*offset? : The throttle cable comes across the engine at 90*.
Got this 5200 I want to put on the car.

 

[LameHoof65]

Thanx Dennis for the info and pic. I got a couple of good copies off of the printer, but I have already hired the machinist to do the work on the flange. A little impulsive and over-eager to work on the intake this weekend. But he didn't have it ready and looks like it will be next weekend before I can get on it. I like that draft you sent through and I will use it, because this is not the only intake I will produce. The machinist is only going to drill my throttle holes for the 5200 at 1"1/2 and bevel for the 2300 out to about 1"3/4 as well as drill and tap the 5/16 holes. I will probably use my jig and vise to cut it out like you indicated----I tried an air cutoff tool but it didn't work well and I don't know that I can keep the cut steady with a jig, do you know what type metal blade will give the best cut, this aluminum is pretty tough. It surprised me as to how much power I had to use with my cutoff tool to get it to cut through. I am sure it has an alloy to it, but I didn't think to ask---I just told the guy at the metal shop it was for a spacer/adaptor to a holley carb and he said "this is what you want it will resist heat and outlast you and your engine."

 

[ski4evr]

With an Apple you only have to drag and drop it to the desktop and it saves it as a jpg. We Apple people like things simple. We only have one button on our mice.

scott

 

[wallaka]

You can click-n-drag with Windows too...just most people don't know it.. And couldn't you just move the cable and bracket? My car has the bell-crank so I dunno...I guess that redesigning the adapter might be easier though.

---kevin out

 

[LameHoof65]

Well, my adaptor/spacer is about done. I have some work I will have to do to it before it is complete, but I can do all of it at home in my garage. I am pretty happy with it, like Dennis said it cost, but then it was pretty much what I wanted. My machinist only charged me $30.00 for his drilling---but the guy he found to cut the shape out with his metal bandsaw charged $35.00. I am satisfied they both did good work. I will have to chamfer the top of the 1.50" holes with my own rasp file though---I guess he didn't want to chamfer it out another 1/4" on the top. He left the tapping for the studs to me, which was what I wanted. I had found an adaptor on a Holley product site that looked like it would work but it was about $60 and I couldn't tell if it would work for my project without major work so I opted to have this one made. With the cost of the flat bar stock, drilling and cutting it comes to about $77 total. Soon as I get some time and after I am done I will post a pic.

 

[LameHoof65]

Well, here it is as it sits in rough form, I need to open the throttle bores at the top for the 2300 just a smidgen. I haven't yet secured it to the log yet and I will need to drill and tap the holes both in the log and adaptor. That black spacer is I think a phenolic spacer I picked up in the junk yard. CZLN6 is looking at it on another post for identification.