I6 200 weber 32/36 Jetting

Hello All! my name is Mario this is my first time officially on here but I've been lurking a few months since I got my '66! I hope ya'll can shed some light on this question I have!

Picked up a clean '66 inline 6 for the wife. I swapped out the entire ignition to a DS2 and installed a weber 32/36. The car runs great EXCEPT that I cannot get it to idle oh the idle circuit alone (I do understand that means it's NOT running great but it after the idle circuit it progresses through fairly nicely). I purchased the carb pre-jetted for a 6 cylinder but nothing. I've cleaned it numerous times too. I don't believe I have a vacuum leak (sprayed water AND starter fluid in the area surrounding the carb with no change in RPMS. The motor appeared to be rebuilt. (no carbon build up on the cylinders) but I have yet to officially check compression. However, it does run strong. I upped my main jets but that didn't help much. I SHOULD be able to get it running with the baseline settings I have due to similar settings I've found on the web... So long story short I was wondering if anybody here with a weber conversion would be willing to share their jet settings so I can have an idea of which jets to troubleshoot.

Ford 200 Automatic
Weber 32/36
Primary -
160 main
160 Air corrector
75 Idle

Secondary
160 main
170 air corrector
60 Idle

Notes -
I have all vacuums disconnected for baseline tuning.
Timing 10-11 advanced on the gun.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

- Mario
 
I would try a few more degrees base timing. As instructed by WSA111, I'm running 16-18 degrees timing base. The Weber's appear to like more base timing. I'm in the process of tuning my 61 with it's 32/36. if you follow my thread " Tuning help requested for 32/36 weber" I've got a similar idle jet- but I had to bump my mains up to 180 to assist with a pinging problem caused by a lean condition. 16.0 AFR no bueno at WOT.
 
Thanks Dragonlich. I also read somewhere else that a good base advance is around 14. seemed high though but I'll give it a shot. As for your 180 jets, the ones that my carb came with were 145's (keep in mind it was pre-jetted for a 6 cylinder) which makes me think, if you're at 180, they may have under jetted my carb. Regardless I'll try advancing it a few more ticks and see what happens.

ALSO... Weird thing is, while troubleshooting I turned in the throttle screw to get it to idle, incorrectly I know, but just to keep the engine on. I would drive it around the block and when I came back it wouldn't want to idle anymore, then I'd screw in the throttle screw more to idle and same thing would happen rinse and repeat as if every time I drove it I kept losing idle until I maxed in the throttle screw. it's a head scratcher.
 
Thanks Dragonlich. I also read somewhere else that a good base advance is around 14. seemed high though but I'll give it a shot. As for your 180 jets, the ones that my carb came with were 145's (keep in mind it was pre-jetted for a 6 cylinder) which makes me think, if you're at 180, they may have under jetted my carb. Regardless I'll try advancing it a few more ticks and see what happens.

ALSO... Weird thing is, while troubleshooting I turned in the throttle screw to get it to idle, incorrectly I know, but just to keep the engine on. I would drive it around the block and when I came back it wouldn't want to idle anymore, then I'd screw in the throttle screw more to idle and same thing would happen rinse and repeat as if every time I drove it I kept losing idle until I maxed in the throttle screw. it's a head scratcher.
Main jet may vary due to engine build as well. I have a rather peppy setup(cam, rasied compression, later head, header). Not sure what you have done to yours. Your idle situation seams very weird. Also didn't mention trans, as that matters as well.
 
Main jet may vary due to engine build as well. I have a rather peppy setup(cam, rasied compression, later head, header). Not sure what you have done to yours. Your idle situation seams very weird. Also didn't mention trans, as that matters as well.
As far as I know the engine is stock. I've been scratching my head over your timing advance. 18 seems really high for idle. I haven't had a minute but will tomorrow so I'll give it a shot and report back. Like I said I'm at about 11-12 right now.
 
Mario, i can't help you with your Weber. I hope you are only running 3# fuel pressure, thats all they can take.
Where did you get your DS11???
You just can't keep changing the timing cause you don't know how much centrifugal you have. Plus how many degrees in your vacuum advance? Bill wsa111
 
Mario, i can't help you with your Weber. I hope you are only running 3# fuel pressure, thats all they can take.
Where did you get your DS11???
You just can't keep changing the timing cause you don't know how much centrifugal you have. Plus how many degrees in your vacuum advance? Bill wsa111
WSA111, Yeah I've played with that too and also rechecked the float settings. I'm at 3psi. As far as timing, I have the vacuum line plugged at the carb. I haven't even began to play with full advance as I'm only trying to figure out why I can't hold an idle.
 
Get another carburetor on there. Such as a Holley 350. Then you can then you can run full fuel pump pressure.Then you can approach your DS11. What ignition box are you running??
Where did you your DS11?
 
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Hey all, decided to snap a few shots… and play with baseline settings to get it to idle…

the motor will only stay on with the idle screw maxed all the way in IN ANY TIMING! I had it idling at 12 degrees advanced and it won’t stay on at all unless the throttle stop screw is nearly maxed. I went up to 18 degrees and same thing. It’s almost as if the the timing is dropping down on its own but the gun doesn’t say that. If the Weber should keep the car on on the idle circuit alone i can say that it’s not doing that.
I sources the ds on eBay as nos. Distro was also an eBay find off a ‘76 Granada I think.
See below… keep in mind when I got close up to the linkage the spacing is because I had a weight on the pedal just so I could turn it on and get to the bay without it shutting off.
 

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Sounds like the jetting may be way rich if you have turn the mixture screws way in. You could try swapping the secondary jet to primary and vise versa to see if that dose any better. Good luck
 
Or maybe the carb has some flaws , one thing I learned many years ago is that the Webers are made all over the world and than there are some copy's too. The very best Webers are made in Spain and you can get those at Redline in California. good luck
 
It looks like from the video your idle screw isn't touching the throttle hammer. If your idle is that high and its not even touching, that means you have a vacuum leak or an internal leak somewhere. I've had many carbs that are fricked up somewhere inside and do the same thing. I'd keep checking for a leak, but if your mixture screws are turned all the way in, then you're getting fuel elsewhere, indicating either high fuel pressure overflowing into the barrels, or there could be some other failure in the carb somewhere. i personally only changed jets with my Weber and I hated the carb. I put a holley 350cfm Street Avenger on it and have not looked back. That weber was a tuning nightmare for me. Good luck man. I do still have mine around and it does work great, just needs dialed in. Lost all my extra jets somehow as well.
 
It looks like from the video your idle screw isn't touching the throttle hammer. If your idle is that high and its not even touching, that means you have a vacuum leak or an internal leak somewhere. I've had many carbs that are fricked up somewhere inside and do the same thing. I'd keep checking for a leak, but if your mixture screws are turned all the way in, then you're getting fuel elsewhere, indicating either high fuel pressure overflowing into the barrels, or there could be some other failure in the carb somewhere. i personally only changed jets with my Weber and I hated the carb. I put a holley 350cfm Street Avenger on it and have not looked back. That weber was a tuning nightmare for me. Good luck man. I do still have mine around and it does work great, just needs dialed in. Lost all my extra jets somehow as well.
My bad, I don't think i was being clear. I placed some weights on the accelerator pedal to keep it on. But yes the mixture screw, at that time, needed to be screwed in all the way for it to stay on therefore I can only assume it was by passing the idle circuit but here is my latest development....

I realized the fast idle screw behind the choke was backed out almost completely. I screwed it in and now the car will stay on with the throttle on the linkage around where it's suppose to be so YAY I got idle. BUT I have the engine very very advanced. I wasn't getting any pinging and I did drive it around without pinging but it seems way high. I had another member comment that they're up around 18. I don't know where I'm at currently but I plan on getting a dial gauge in there and making some marks on the pulley to get an idea of where I'm at since the stock markings only go up to 14.
 
My bad, I don't think i was being clear. I placed some weights on the accelerator pedal to keep it on. But yes the mixture screw, at that time, needed to be screwed in all the way for it to stay on therefore I can only assume it was by passing the idle circuit but here is my latest development....

I realized the fast idle screw behind the choke was backed out almost completely. I screwed it in and now the car will stay on with the throttle on the linkage around where it's suppose to be so YAY I got idle. BUT I have the engine very very advanced. I wasn't getting any pinging and I did drive it around without pinging but it seems way high. I had another member comment that they're up around 18. I don't know where I'm at currently but I plan on getting a dial gauge in there and making some marks on the pulley to get an idea of where I'm at since the stock markings only go up to 14.
Yay, yeah that would make a difference when its cold. It shouldn't be on the choke cam when its hot though.

So when I did mine, I had pinging issues more than about 10 degrees. Mind you I had a crappy HEI distributor. The DSII you're running is great. 14 really isn't that high when its made to work with your setup. My DUI that was curved by WSA had me at 16-18. I took a small protractor and marked the different degrees past 12 on the balancer and timed those to 0 (i made them in front of the mark in the balancer)
 
"...The DSII you're running is great..." looks DSIII to me (80s).
Keep the 32/36 if U want it, its as good as the 2100, better 4 certain apps.
 
Have you checked that timing marks are correct? Is the timing chain still in good condistion? Simple test is set the crankshaft Dampners timing Mark at TDC them mark the distributor rotor position on the housing now turn the engine backwards until the rotor moves again how many degrees did the crankshaft Dampner move. This tells you the amount of timing chain streach you have. Good luck
 
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