Im Back

[Anonymous]

Hey guys! After a long break from the Mustang I am back. The car has just been sitting in the garage for the last couple years. Budget delays, parts setbacks, having the wrong engine etc just seemed to burn me out on this project. Plus as I was doing the xflow, I did a 4 wheel disc brake swap, 9" rear swap, rebuilt the entire front end and added 02 wheels. Now, we are planning a move 1000 miles away so I HAVE to get this thing running within the next couple months. Because of the move, the budget is real tight...

Here is where I am. The engine (less the head) is installed in the car. The starter, alt, ps, bosch dizzy etc are also installed. I just need a new radiator and a good temp carb. The head is at the shop where he finished welding up the water passages that were eaten up. So I should be able to just bolt on the head, use the stock exhaust manifold until I get headers, and use the stock 2v intake until I get a readline for the holley 350.

Suggestions on any cheap little 2v carb that will bolt on that intake with no mods? I was thinking about the little 2V deals that Stovebolt used to sell.

I think if I was to do this all again, I would go with a US engine. The xflow is a great engine but everything has been a struggle with it...

 

[xctasy]

Bolt on the 1970 to 1980 Pinto 2-bbl 2000 or 2300cc #5200 series Motorcraft carb. Or the 6520 Escort or Mustang/Capri 2300 cc version (1981 to 1984, I think). Make you own air cleaner off a 14 inch diameter 2" thin aftermarket number, and make a special bracket to hook it up.

The US Pinto carb is a domestically made Weber, with the same bolt pattern as the Aussie 34ADM. Most have the water activated choke on the drivers side (left), which clears the valve (rocker) cover. All you've gotta do is make sure the accelerator linkage follows the one on the Pinto, and it'll hook up fine. The early Pintos with C4 had a C4 kickdown lever or cable.

The accelerator lever will come out right where the white three out let TVS valve is on the Aussie 2-bbl #9425 intake manifold. If its 1-bbl, you'll have to get a Trasnco adaptor and bolt on a 2-bbl to your exisating 1-bbl intake. Depends what you have already. Either way, you'll have to block off one othe the two TVS valves with a brass plug or 11 gallon druM plug to allow the Pinto linkage to work.

For jetting, it'll possibly need an enrichment somewhere, but it will work right away. There is no fuel return line on US Motorcraft/Autolite or Weber/Holley carbs, so you've got to use the earlier fuel pump that was on the pre 1983 Ford X-flow engines.

Good fortune, mate. Remember, a fire seams to heat twice as much, if you kindle it yourself!


PS. The reason for the problems with the X-flow is that everyone thinks the short cut is the easy way. With the Oz X-flow, everything is different, as Jack Collins intimated in his X-Flow Chronicles. Fuel, ignition, engine width at crankcase and head gasket, starter, ring gear teeth, bellhousing bolt pattern, height and water coolant flow. Later post 83 versions with 12 volt cut-off to carb, 7 volt supply to electric choke, fuel return line, very high 9.15 to 9.35:1 compression, all of it spells tropuble when trying to link it with good old US penut grade gasoline and off the shelf ignition and carb parts.

That's why I'd always suggest either getting the whole lot as a running import, or doing it yourself using as much US gear on the engine as possible. You never want to be anywhere waiting on a stupid Aussie sourced part

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks man. I think I am actually going to use the 1V intake with the aussie stromberg that it came with and a manual choke for now. It should be real easy to tune while getting the engine running and working out the bugs. I took it apart and gave it a good cleaning and it looks to be in pretty good shape.

After a few months and after working out all the kinks, I can add things like headers and 2v carbs. Way down the road I can even think about a supercharger.