Im Still Scheeming...
- Thread starter Bort62
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A
Anonymous
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Did you purchase another 60 chero. Or another round body
Darin
Darin
I was wondering where you had disappeared to.
I've been reading some EFI engineering books that say the angle of the injectors in relation to the port is not that critical since the fuel gets swept into the valve pocket anyway. Just getting it in the vicinity will work. You could actually put the injectors vertically on top of the log and it would work fine.
Also, I found that a 3/4" (I think, can't rmember for sure) brass compression fitting has the correct inside diameter to work as an injector bung.
I've been reading some EFI engineering books that say the angle of the injectors in relation to the port is not that critical since the fuel gets swept into the valve pocket anyway. Just getting it in the vicinity will work. You could actually put the injectors vertically on top of the log and it would work fine.
Also, I found that a 3/4" (I think, can't rmember for sure) brass compression fitting has the correct inside diameter to work as an injector bung.
I bought another 60. Completely original except the paint, interior, and wheels. Its In driving condition, Too. Im very much money ahead by doing this.
I hope to get my hands on it before summer.
Jack, The main reason for angling the injector is to facilitate a Single fuel rail. otherwise the carb/TB gets in the way, and makes things more difficult.
As far as the compression fitting, thats very interesting. Looks like a trip to ACE is in my future. If that works, that would simplify things greatly.
I havent looked at the accel bungs, but My Main concern would be weather or not they are Ally or Steel.
I can mig the steel to the head no problem, but AL won't work.
I was planning on Simply welding a long 3/8" thick Stip of Steel along that surface of the head to add the nessicary thickness. I would then setup a jig and my Drillpress with a Taperd Reamer to Open up the Bungs.
Either way, it's fairly trivial.
I havent Dissapeared. I have been Buried Knee Deep in GM EFI And Have completed a few projects over the last months.
Now its time to take one across platforms into something new
What we are looking at here is a intercooled Garret T3(for now), 91-93 Syclone/Typhoon ECM, 6 cyl MPFI Camaro Wiring harness, and Multipoint Fuel injection with 2 bar MAP. Ive got a garage full of Parts for this thing, just need to start putting it together The main thing that kept me from completing this turbo project with the carb before was just that, The carb.
I really dislike Carbs. In order to sucessfully Turbo a Carbed engine, there is a lot of hassle and Fudging. Doing it with EFI is oh so Simple.
Anyone have a good source of Short Radius 90* Tubing Elbows ? I need to make a Throttle body adaptor.
I hope to get my hands on it before summer.
Jack, The main reason for angling the injector is to facilitate a Single fuel rail. otherwise the carb/TB gets in the way, and makes things more difficult.
As far as the compression fitting, thats very interesting. Looks like a trip to ACE is in my future. If that works, that would simplify things greatly.
I havent looked at the accel bungs, but My Main concern would be weather or not they are Ally or Steel.
I can mig the steel to the head no problem, but AL won't work.
I was planning on Simply welding a long 3/8" thick Stip of Steel along that surface of the head to add the nessicary thickness. I would then setup a jig and my Drillpress with a Taperd Reamer to Open up the Bungs.
Either way, it's fairly trivial.
I havent Dissapeared. I have been Buried Knee Deep in GM EFI And Have completed a few projects over the last months.
Now its time to take one across platforms into something new
What we are looking at here is a intercooled Garret T3(for now), 91-93 Syclone/Typhoon ECM, 6 cyl MPFI Camaro Wiring harness, and Multipoint Fuel injection with 2 bar MAP. Ive got a garage full of Parts for this thing, just need to start putting it together
The main thing that kept me from completing this turbo project with the carb before was just that, The carb.I really dislike Carbs. In order to sucessfully Turbo a Carbed engine, there is a lot of hassle and Fudging. Doing it with EFI is oh so Simple.
Anyone have a good source of Short Radius 90* Tubing Elbows ? I need to make a Throttle body adaptor.
A
Anonymous
Guest
can't u just get a blank header flange from jegs or summit/
i could be wrong
keep us posted
i could be wrong
keep us posted
A
Anonymous
Guest
i know you can im sorry but i don't have time to find it on their site right now but i'll try and find it for you asap because i know i've seen them in there before maybe jcwhittney also i'll do my best
Clifford lists them for sale, they don't say anything about delivery.
Thanks for the Tips guys.
Headers by Ed wants over 100$ for the Flange. for that price Ill make it myself.
The one listed on Wilches Site Doesnt look right, and he even admits on there not being sure what it is for. I belive it might be for the earlier 232 6's.
At this point, It seems like it might be prudent for me to simply buy a used header and Cut it up. Anyone have one for sale ? Looking for a Single outlet.
Headers by Ed wants over 100$ for the Flange. for that price Ill make it myself.
The one listed on Wilches Site Doesnt look right, and he even admits on there not being sure what it is for. I belive it might be for the earlier 232 6's.
At this point, It seems like it might be prudent for me to simply buy a used header and Cut it up. Anyone have one for sale ? Looking for a Single outlet.
I've found that I can cut steel with a 1/4" end mill in my router. I'm going to cut flanges for the Crossflow intake that way. I'll rough them out with a saw, them mill them to final shape with the router.
twentyover
Well-known member
Hiya Jack
Question about routing 1/4" steel w/ mill-
Is this a standard single ended mill? 2 flutes or 4? IIRC most woodworking routers take a 1/4" shank. Is this correct? and won't a roiuter spin a mill terribly fast?
I realize this is drifting wide of the topic, byt this inquiring mind wants to know. Thanks in advance for your reply
greg
Question about routing 1/4" steel w/ mill-
Is this a standard single ended mill? 2 flutes or 4? IIRC most woodworking routers take a 1/4" shank. Is this correct? and won't a roiuter spin a mill terribly fast?
I realize this is drifting wide of the topic, byt this inquiring mind wants to know. Thanks in advance for your reply
greg
I would advocate NOT milling steel with a router, unless you can dial the speed back some. It will throw fine shavings everywhere. As someone who has waited in casualty for steel to be removed from their eyeball - I say: look after yourself.
Mill bits are usually HSS. Router bits are solid carbide (small ones, at least). A carbide bit will break immediately if grossly overloaded, while HSS may bend. I can't say enough about the dangers of continuing with a slightly bent bit. Consider the frangibility of carbide a "safety valve".
If you must; try for a variable speed router, and use a twin flute spiral DOWNCUT carbide bit. "CMT" make a nice one worth looking for. This will not grab, and is your safest option. "Cold starts" in direct contact with the workpiece will ruin your cutter immediately. Always get the bit up to speed before contacting the workpiece.
Try to avoid cutting slots; trimming is easier to control - bandsaw to rough shape first. In metal, never cut deeper than half the bit diameter.
Look after your ears. I got out of fine woodwork for several reasons; one was the consistent exposure to router (and other tool) noises, eight inches from my nose. You want to hear that motor to really enjoy it.
Regards, Adam.
Mill bits are usually HSS. Router bits are solid carbide (small ones, at least). A carbide bit will break immediately if grossly overloaded, while HSS may bend. I can't say enough about the dangers of continuing with a slightly bent bit. Consider the frangibility of carbide a "safety valve".
If you must; try for a variable speed router, and use a twin flute spiral DOWNCUT carbide bit. "CMT" make a nice one worth looking for. This will not grab, and is your safest option. "Cold starts" in direct contact with the workpiece will ruin your cutter immediately. Always get the bit up to speed before contacting the workpiece.
Try to avoid cutting slots; trimming is easier to control - bandsaw to rough shape first. In metal, never cut deeper than half the bit diameter.
Look after your ears. I got out of fine woodwork for several reasons; one was the consistent exposure to router (and other tool) noises, eight inches from my nose. You want to hear that motor to really enjoy it.
Regards, Adam.
