Installed Holley 2bbl from Stovebolt



Got my Stovebolt 2bbl and adapter (clifford) today. Install went pretty smoothly I must say, although Linkage is *not* bolt-on. I had to make a small arm extension but it only took about 5 min to make it.

Now for the questions.

1. I'm need to find switched power for the automatic choke. I posted on VMF and our own CobraSix posted about the ignition wire. I'm assuming this is the wire that goes to the top (+) side of the coil. I know that is switched. Any problem running another line from that post to the elec. choke?

2. I think the carb is jetted too rich. I am able to put the idle mixture screw all the way in and it still runs fine. I warmed the car up and played with the screw and there is no vacuum change by seating the screw. I assume I have more adjustment here I could make. Anyone with the Holley 5200 encounter this problem when they installed?

Thanks for the help!
Most, if not all, of Ford's electric choke carbs. were wired to the black terminal on the back of the alternator.
I don't see a "black" terminal - I have a white wire with a black stripe. Is that the one?

Also, since the choke faces the back of the car, the (+) connection on my coil is actually much closer. Any reason why that wouldn't work?
I just recently installed a 5200 also.
For the elect choke, I just ran a wire w/ a fuse thru the firewall to the back of my ign. switch.
As for the idle screw, mine was the opposite. After about 3 turns out I could screw it all the way out with no change.
Talk to Tom at Stovebolt, he'll help you out to figure what jets you'll need.
I just got my new set today so I'll install them this weekend.
I'm reading that straight from a Fairmont manual. It's the terminal that has the black ring around it.

While searching another forum, I found that it is the "s" terminal of the alternator. The electric choke requires constant power, but only when the engine is running. By connecting it to this terminal, it will prevent the choke from being on when the ignition key is turned on without the engine running.
When I put mine on, I changed the coil over to a 12V unit and used the coil wire to power a relay that gets power from the battery.
This may be a bit large but I have been scanning images from some of my books lately and happened to have scanned an alternator last night

more can be found at if you are bored, and keep in mind I will be adding more as I get around to it.

Well, I'm not sure what the "S" terminal is, but the only terminal in that picture with an "S" in it is "STA" (which I assume is Starter).

Also, that happens to have a black ring around the terminal.

So, I wired it into there.

Now I have another problem. When the engine is cold, the choke is closed tight against the carb. In my other cars, when I start the car the choke opens slightly to let a LITTLE air in.

Well, with this setup the choke stays completely closed even when I'm trying to start the car, which makes it IMPOSSIBLE to start. I have to hold the plates open manually ever so slightly to get the engine running, then everything works fine. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
there should be three little screws that secure the choke housing to the carb and theres a little spring in there that heats up to release the choke, just loosed those bolts and let the engine warm up, the adjust the choke so that the plates are barely vertical
All of the manuals I've have say to adjust the electric choke when the engine is cold. Hold a drill bit (usually a 1/8 or something close to that) between the choke plate and side of the air horn. Adjust the tension of the spring so that it will stay open that distance until it all warms up.
As far as the car running with the idle screw all the way in, the fuel has to be coming from somewhere and the only place left is the main circuit. Make sure your throttle plate is positioned properly to engage the idle circuit (the transition and idle hole right at the apex of the venturi). There should be a set dimension, like .015 from the edge of the throttle plate to the face of the venturi wall.

Let us know how it works out, Ric.
Welcome to the 5200 set. Glad the install went well. I felt like I may have talked you into this set-up so I was afraid you wouldn't be happy with it. Guess the jury is still out.

I hooked my choke to the alternator. You can't use the coil unless you have a 12 volt system. The stock car has a ballast resistor in the line from the switch to the coil. Can't remember which dizzy you are using, but either way you could go to a 12 volt coil (Pertronix Flamethrower2) and remove the ballast. I changed over to the 12 volt coil after the 5200 switch so I used the alternator.

Tom is a great resource. Don't hesitate to call him. It would be helpful to know which jet you have when you make the call. I would pull both sides (primary and secondary). You can get his input on both at the same time. I would also pull the idle mixture screw to make sure it looks OK. Smooth, clean, no ridges. If these are screwed in too tight during the rebuild process they can be damaged. Tom will make it right.

Next issue. I have to agree with Ric's comment about fuel comming from somewhere. There is a transition circuit built into the carb just above the throttle plate. If your likage isn't allowing the throttle to close completely the transition circuit could give you a false reading on idle mixture. Did the idle screw work properly?

Keep us posted.
Thanks guys.

OK, well it sounds like "jetting" may not be the problem - because like I said it runs fine with the idle screw all the way in. This is concerning, because it actually makes warm starts difficult -- like the engine is flooded. I checked the needle and it looks fine.

How exactly can I check waht the problem is again? Ric - I'm not sure I understand your description. Could this be a float issue?

FYI I opened the carb top and I have 185 primary and 195 secondary jets in the 5200. If anyone has the float dimensions I'd love to check.


CORRECTION - I believe those are the not the jet numbers. Those are from jet-looking valves on the top of the carb.

the real jet numbers are 255 pri, 239 sec.
Most - in fact, all - of Ford's own electric choke units I've seen are 7 volt units. They are designed to be run from the "S" terminal on the back of alternators so-equipped. This power is AC (not DC) type, that is, there is no + or - to it. (I'm not speaking of aftermarket non-FoMoCo units.)
The heaters almost all work this way (from 1970 or later): when very cold, like less than 40 degrees (F), the heater element is very high resistance. This causes very little heat to occur from the applied voltage. As the choke's element warms up, it begins to drop in resistance, so the current flow begins to rise and it makes heat faster and faster (that is, non-linearly vs. time). After the whole underhood area is warm, it will open very quickly upon startup.

The "S" terminal of the alternator only makes power when the alternator spins and the voltage regulator is feeding the field.

The bug in all of this is this: if the choke stays cold because of cool air moving over it, the heater never gets active enough to open it up. So, Ford added little "heat riser" pipes to bring warmer air up from the engine to start this process. Here's the glitch: in the 200 engines made after the mid-70s, there was a little coil of tubing added inside the exhaust manifold to generate the warm air. One end of the coil was connected to the "clean" side of the air filter or the horn of the carb: this supplied cold air. The other end of the coil went into the choke housing, then thru a passage into the throat of the carb, where it did 2 things: 1. pulled the heated air into the choke heater to start the opening process and 2. help prevent throttle plate icing when cold. However, during the 1980s our gasoline had MTBE added to it to reduce emissions. This stuff becomes very corrosive at exhaust temperatures, which has eaten away most of those little coils in the exhaust manifolds. Result: raw exhaust gases get into the choke housing and eat up the chokes and passages in the carb - plus, make it very dirty all the time.

The fix is to make your own coil of tubing (1/4" tubing is fine) and wrap it all around the OUTSIDE of the exhaust manifold to get that warm air. I had to do this to mine and some others, and it's worked out OK.

Good luck!