60s Refugee
Well-known member
There were still many things to complete. I will have to do this in two posts 'cuz there are too many pics beyond the forum limit. This is part 'A'.
I discovered that the alternator DID hit the header! The "Classic Air" AC pump bracket raises the alternator higher to allow room for the compressor. This puts the alternator right where #1 tube is! Rather than modify the C.A. bracket, I took the OEM bracket and welded it to the C.A. bracket. I welded it along the horizontal lower edge and both vertical edges. Here's a pic.
Now for the linkage. I welded a second pivot ball to hex nut and set up a two ball hookup on Bravo carb. This was to allow for the rod running to the bell crank to have a seperate pivot. The way I bent the accelerator also meant I needed a longer vertical rod to Bravo carb. I welded a short piece of threaded rod on and set up the linkage. I have full pedal and full linkage travel. Here's a pic.
The hard lines for the dizzy advance and transmission modulator had to be re-routed. Being sure to turn a loop up higher than the carb level, I was able to route the dizzy vac pretty much where it had been, but the modulator line interfered with the header. I ran it forward, turned up a loop, then routed it down, turned under tube #1 toward the block, and kept it hugging the block back to the modulator. This it still the OEM line and after that it was still long enough to reach! Here's a pic!
After that I put on the water pump and fan, the belts, the radiator, AC condenser, hooked up all the AC, radiator and heater hoses, filled the radiator with premix, and changed the oil. The engine wiring, and battery came last. I decided to try Mobil 1 full synthetic this time because of the positive stuff said about it on this forum. You see, I can change my ways once in a while
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I routed the hoses to avoid proximity to the header and moving parts. I took the PCV hose and routed it behind Charley carb, then alongside the AC and heater hose. I tossed the old OEM strap and used cable ties to secure the hoses to the cowl brace. This pulled the whole works higher from the header. Here's two pics.
When I got the head in the mail I noticed that the air cleaner on the Bravo carb had been crushed. I figured there was some hood clearance issues. I did some careful checking and found that the center cleaner did hit. It was about 1/2" too tall. I went over to Auto Zone, bought a Mr. Gasket 4" cleaner. I put it on the carb, traced where it hit the choke rod and what ever that thing is on the front, and took a die grinder to it, allowing the air cleaner to slide down the top of the carb about half an inch farther than it would have. I used a 1/4-20 round head bolt in place of the wing nut. It clears OK now. I fully intend to use a better air filter set up in the future, but these will do until I can devise something else.
Now it was ready to start! I put a charger on the battery and went to lunch.
The start is detailed in part 'B'.
Harry
I discovered that the alternator DID hit the header! The "Classic Air" AC pump bracket raises the alternator higher to allow room for the compressor. This puts the alternator right where #1 tube is! Rather than modify the C.A. bracket, I took the OEM bracket and welded it to the C.A. bracket. I welded it along the horizontal lower edge and both vertical edges. Here's a pic.
Now for the linkage. I welded a second pivot ball to hex nut and set up a two ball hookup on Bravo carb. This was to allow for the rod running to the bell crank to have a seperate pivot. The way I bent the accelerator also meant I needed a longer vertical rod to Bravo carb. I welded a short piece of threaded rod on and set up the linkage. I have full pedal and full linkage travel. Here's a pic.
The hard lines for the dizzy advance and transmission modulator had to be re-routed. Being sure to turn a loop up higher than the carb level, I was able to route the dizzy vac pretty much where it had been, but the modulator line interfered with the header. I ran it forward, turned up a loop, then routed it down, turned under tube #1 toward the block, and kept it hugging the block back to the modulator. This it still the OEM line and after that it was still long enough to reach! Here's a pic!
After that I put on the water pump and fan, the belts, the radiator, AC condenser, hooked up all the AC, radiator and heater hoses, filled the radiator with premix, and changed the oil. The engine wiring, and battery came last. I decided to try Mobil 1 full synthetic this time because of the positive stuff said about it on this forum. You see, I can change my ways once in a while
. I routed the hoses to avoid proximity to the header and moving parts. I took the PCV hose and routed it behind Charley carb, then alongside the AC and heater hose. I tossed the old OEM strap and used cable ties to secure the hoses to the cowl brace. This pulled the whole works higher from the header. Here's two pics.
When I got the head in the mail I noticed that the air cleaner on the Bravo carb had been crushed. I figured there was some hood clearance issues. I did some careful checking and found that the center cleaner did hit. It was about 1/2" too tall. I went over to Auto Zone, bought a Mr. Gasket 4" cleaner. I put it on the carb, traced where it hit the choke rod and what ever that thing is on the front, and took a die grinder to it, allowing the air cleaner to slide down the top of the carb about half an inch farther than it would have. I used a 1/4-20 round head bolt in place of the wing nut. It clears OK now. I fully intend to use a better air filter set up in the future, but these will do until I can devise something else.
Now it was ready to start! I put a charger on the battery and went to lunch.
The start is detailed in part 'B'.
Harry
