loadamatic or not loadamatic

[Anonymous]

i recently picked up a 68 mustang with the 200 i6. the motor was really long gone so i picked up one out of a wrecked falcon. the carb on the 68 had the spark control valve spot closed off, the engine that i just picked up and came with a carb that had the spark control valve (theyre both autolite 1100s.) i look at both of the distributors and they are exactly the same. so is the difference between the two distributors noticable or not? im really confused here.

also, trying to get it to run just right. ive got the idle and mixture set up perfect. I let it warm up, and when i try to drive it, giving it steady gas it surges, and under load sometimes it dies, and after i drive it for a bit it doesnt really want to idle, anyone have any ideas? thank you for all the help you have given me so far!

-tony

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy tony:

The difference in the Load-a-Matic and the '68 distributors is in the inside. If you remove the cap on the Load-a-Matic you will see two springs, No visible springs on the '68. they are under the stator plate.

For best results, use the Load-a-Matic with a SCV 1100. But for even better results use the "68 distributor and the 1100 with the SCV plugged and use a ported vacuum source for the vacuum advance. Unfortunately the '68 1100 is downsized inside- From 185 to 150 cfm. You really need to find an 1101 from a '69 Mustang 250.

It sounds like you need to do a rebuild kit on the carb you are using. It sounds like contamination/dirt/crud and a weak accelerator pump. Possibly vacuum likes and incompatibilities between the carb and the distributor.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

thank you very much for the quick reply, it looks like both of the distributors i have are not load a matic. since ive never really worked with an 1100 before, im getting a 2bbl adaptor from summit, an autolite 2100 (ive tuned a few of these before), electronic dizzy and module out of a 79 200. has anyone tried either of these or both and how have they worked for you? any input would be greatly appreciated so i know what to expect.

thank you very much again!
Tony

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back Tony:

They work great together. What Autolite 2100 are you using? the size of the venturi is cast onto the side of the float bowl.

You will likely need to richen the olw speed idle air screws as these carbs ten to be lean on 200s at an idle.

Let us know how it works out.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

im actually getting all of this at kragen, so what year would be good to pick, i was just going off of like a 70 with a 302 2bbl, any ideas of what would be best?

thanks alot for the input david!

-Tony

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back tony;

An Autolite 2100 from a '65 Mustang with a 289 and manual trans, FoMoCo code # C5ZF-A should work out fairly well stock. It will have a 1.14 cast into the side of the fuel bowl, behind the accelerator pump rod. It is rated at 300 cfm, and is jetted and the idle metering is slightly richer than later models.

The 2100 may be the world's easiest carb to rebuild and to work on. Enjoy.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

just got the new distributor/module/carb in last week, the car idles and revs like a champ, i just have to figure out a way to make the gas pedal out of a 93 escort and the throttle cable out of an 87 bronco work perfectly. thank you for all of the info, the carb i got from kragen had 1.33 for the venturi size, got the mixture set just right and i cant wait to actually drive and see how it responds. thank you so much for all of your input! next up is maybe a cam or headers, actually im hoping the hood wont hit the air filter right at the moment!

-tony

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back Tony:

Happy days!!! Do a couple of searches on the forum on throttle cable conversions and on low profile air cleaners for some ideas on those issues. I used the throttle cable and pedal from a '70s Maverick. On the 1st version I fabbed a cable holder to the valve cover, but due to leaks on the cheap aftermarket chromed valve cover I switched to a late model, "Powered by Ford" stock valve cover with the brackets already in place. I used an air cleaner from an '82 LTD with a V8. It is very low profile and has a snorkel for outside cold air. I have yet to add a K & N filter.

The 1.33 version of the Autolite 2100 is very rare and very trick. They only came on some 390 V8 Ford, Mercury, Lincoln and Ford trucks with the 2v 390 engines in the mid '60s. It is rated at 424 cfm and is sought after by owners of 2V 289s (1.14 - 300 cfm) ,302s (1.08 - 287 cfm) and 351s (1.21 & 1.23 - 351 & 356 cfm) as a bolt on upgrade.

It's kinda a shame that you are running this jewel through an adapter. It may be rich on a mostly stock 200, both in the idle circuit and in main jetting. You will be able to easily adjust the accelerator pump shot by manipulating the hole choices on the overreach lever and the accelerator pump lever.

Be sure to disassemble to see what jets you have and to verify the float setting. AKT the Holley power valves work as a direct replacement in Autolite 2100. Most likely your engine will be rich on WOT transitions with both Main jets and Power circuit opening. The Holley PVs have a much wider range of actuation choices and are slightly more accurate than the wimpy Autolite power valves. You might start tuning with an 8.5 or 10.5 depending on your engines vacuum characteristics, cam and elevation.

Have you given any thought to opening up your exhaust to improve performance?

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

with the same carb and adapter that you have I used a drop base chrome aircleaner from summit, the total hight above the carb is only about an inch and a half. I posted a link to it not too long ago.

with my 2100 I had to lean out the main jets and idle alot for it to run well. I am running a 6.5 holley powervalve, seem to work ok, but I have a 8.5 that I want to try also.