Manual to electric choke

[Titleist16]

I want to upgrade to a 2bbl some time in the future so started looking around for adapters and carbs. I noticed that most of the 2bbl are electric choke but the carb I have on my car now is a manual choke. Is it an easy conversion to use the electric choke? What 2bbl carbs do you know of that are manual choke? Thanks[/quote]

 

[CobraSix]

Electric choke is real easy. All you need to find is a 12V switched power source. I used my ignition wire since I do not have a ballast resistor or resistor wire. You want it switched because otherwise you'll never run the choke and you'll burn the element out (along with draining the battery).

On the other hand, personally...I HATE my electric choke. It cools down way too fast. If I let the car sit for 5-10 minutes, it starts to high idle again. Really kind of annoying. If you have a manual choke already in your car, get a 2V manual choke. Summit racing has lots of them to choose from, both electric and manual in 2Vs.

Slade

 

[wsa111]

I know everyone has there opinion, but i would never use a manual choke again. I like to use an oil pressure switch as the supply of current to the choke heating element. That way if you have the ignition switch on it does not prematurally open the choke.
If you use the holley 2300 carburetor series, 350-500 cfm electric choke kits are available for both.
For the 350 cfm holley get 45-223 electric choke kit.
Fot the 500 cfm holley get 45-224s for the shiney finish you also need 45-465 dechoke kit, which is the correct link you screw to the throttle shaft. When you install the kit on a 500 you have to use a new-supplied linkage rod from the choke housing to the choke shaft. Holley instructions suck. To get the new linkage rod to attach to the existing choke shaft, you must slightly bend the choke shaft attachment tab with a pair of pliers to remove the old link & then install the new link. After the new linkage rod is manouvered through the air horn casting & inserted in the choke lever tab-bend the tab back to its original position. There is no need to remove the choke shaft from the air horn. If your 500 is chromate color-gold just drop the s from the part number.
the holley part number for the oil pressure switch which can also be used for an electric fuel pump is 12-810 safety pressure switch.
The correct holley electric fuel pump which can also be run from this switch is 12-801 which will supply you with a constant 7# fuel pressure.
Slade you should be able to back off on your choke tension & back off your fast idle cam adjustment to control the premature choke closing. In cold weather it is a trade off adjustment.
good luck with your holley chokes. william

 

[CobraSix]

oh...my choke has been adjusted to the point it barely runs when cold. Still cools off too fast. Maybe I shouldn't have gotten the headers jet coated...hehe.

I like mine on the ignition switch, that way sometimes if I know the car is warm, I can let the key sit in the run position so the choke stays open.

I love manual chokes, but that's what I learned on.

Slade

 

[wsa111]

Slade, i know it would look funky, but put some kind of insulation around the choke housing to retain the heat???
Have you put a new holley housing on just to try it? I assume your carb is the 390 cfm 4bbl. Good luck william

 

[CobraSix]

that's a good idea...

Slade