More Power?

[wsa111]

Gene, Faron is right on the money with your converter stall speed. A 1.9 60' time will drop you 2 tenths.

Another thing i notice is very little gain when you keep riching the jets. I am concerned you have fuel starvation.

Two ways to check, install a fuel pressure guage to see if you have a radical pressure drop at the 660-1320 part of the track.

You might need 3/8" fuel line from tank to carb & install an electric pump to make sure you have enought juice going into the eyes.

For example i had a car running 14.5 @ 93 & after constant richening i upgraded the entire fuel system-whala 14.3 & 96 was the instant result going back to the close to the original jetting. Bill

 

[Crosley]

This may not be Gene's problem,

What I did on my Falcon: the mechanical fuel pump would not keep up with the Holley 500 carb fuel needs. The OEM mechanical pump was a fresh unit from CarQuest

Over a year ago , I installed 3/8 fuel steel line full length, basic electric pump (Holley design, China copy) and a pressure regulator.

On the tank side, I pulled the sender / pickup out. Measured a little bit and I extended the length of the tube in the tank to put the end more towards the rear of the fuel tank.

I've had no fuel delivery problems , cept when some one does not put gasoline in the tank

 

[tri-power 250]

I have a 350 Holley with a quickfuel metering block, set it up as Gene described and got improvements that are very noticeable. My Idle feed restrictions are 33's, I did put in 32's but the car didn't want to idle. I put the 33's back in and the car puff's black smoke at idle. Would the rich mixture go away if I went to 34's or 35's restrictions?
Thanks,
Ken

 

[wsa111]

Ken, on my 205" engine, i run .030 for the idle jet. Your 250 should need .032" & a .063-.067 idle air bleed.

The idle should be adjustable from there. Remember its more than 1 change, its the combo that works.

Both of you need to get an A/F check to see where you are.

There in no subsitude for just having an innovate checking your setup just when driving around the neighborhood or on the open road & WOT. Bill

 

[tri-power 250]

Sorry Gene for borrowing your post,
Bill, I am not sure where is the Idle Air Bleed located, can you help me out?
Thanks,
Ken

 

[wsa111]

Ken, you have to install replaceable screw in bleeds to make changes.

The idle bleeds are the outer in the main venturi area. The inner bleeds are the fuel bleeds which are very sensitive & should fall in the .028-.030" area. You only need to open the fuel bleeds if you richen up at very high rpm's. Bill

 

[Gene Fiore]

the mechanical fuel pump would not keep up with the Holley 500 carb fuel needs. The OEM mechanical pump was a fresh unit from CarQuest

Tony, how did you make this determination?

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

Your MPH is showing your NOT running out of fuel , as for checking stall , find a safe spot , put the car in 2nd , foot hard on the brake , and stomp the throttle ,watch the tach for its highest reading , don't hold it for more than 2-3 seconds , that reading is your flash stall , which is almost ALWAYS lower than the advertised amount , it was a smart thing to worry about heat, I install a temp gauge on all my customers cars if they use them for anything but normal driving , The gauge needs to go in the front line coming out of the trans , before the radiator , NOT in the pan .

 

[Crosley]

the mechanical fuel pump would not keep up with the Holley 500 carb fuel needs. The OEM mechanical pump was a fresh unit from CarQuest

Tony, how did you make this determination?

Gene, My car was starting to surge at the 1000 foot area on the track. It would not do it every time. I had checked my tank cap and the vent to the tank was open.

Since the fuel system on the Falcon was OEM, I changed it all with the electric pump install.

 

[wsa111]

Your MPH is showing your NOT running out of fuel.

Faron he made several jet changes on the richer side & his mph was close to the same mph he started with. If Gene had an adaquate supply of fuel 4 jet sizes richer would have made a change. His mph on this car is controlled by his fuel supply which is not enough.
If he had enough fuel i bet a 70-71 jet would be very close. Bill

 

[Gene Fiore]

Well, you guys have given me lots to think about and all great information. Thanks! I suppose it may be starving for fuel but this is not evident based on how the car feels going down the track. There is no surging of any kind and it pulls hard thru the traps. Now I know this could still be an issue as years ago on my race car it was slowing down and and when I looked at my fuel guage it was dropping down to about 3 psi at the big end of the track even though I couldn't feel it. This was due to the electric fuel pump going bad. My pet peeve with electric fuel pumps is they are typically noisy and for a street driven car this can by annoying. I'm thinking a fuel guage my be in order to see if there is a need. I'm also thinking I may have to get an innovate...trips to the dyno are getting expensive at about $150 - $200 a pop. I'll also have to check the flash on the converter to see what's going on there. I'm sure it is well below the advertised stall. Now if I just had unlimited funds....

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

Ok its possible but its on the edge at worse , I ALWAYS run a fuel pressure gauge on any of my or customers cars so I know the pressure through the traps , if he has 4.5 or more he is fine

 

[wsa111]

A 4 jet change with very little gain is the key to fuel starvation.

I know you need 5.5-6.5# of fuel pressure on a holley to get the job done & have the carb sensitive to jet changes.

163000
PRIMARY/SECONDARY
ROAD COURSE RACING, OFFSHORE RACING
AND STREET/STRIP APPLICATIONS
http://www.braswell.com/products/floats_1.htm
This is a float from braswell racing which is far better than the holley float.
They are avaiable from braswell & bo laws racing BLP.

This float i have found to be better than the stock holley float. Bill

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

an electric gauge is too slow for use as a fuel monitoring component, and 3psi is too low, , but like I said , its on the edge , but will only get worse as you try to go faster

 

[Gene Fiore]

So I'm thinking a fuel pressure guage is in order to see what is happening here. I know that a mechanical gauge from zero to 15 psi is probably what I need but there are alot of choices out there and some are pretty expensive. Can anyone of you recommend a good one? :thanks:

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

I run one 2 5/8 in a cup mounted on the cowl so its in direct sight , I run fuel to it ( no diaphragm ) so it must be outside , if I must count on a gauge working I choose Autometer ,and have been since the early 80's , only ever had one failure and it was my fault

 

[Gene Fiore]

Ok, so yesterday I went to a buddy's house and we installed a 2 5/8 autometer fuel pressure guage...mounted outside on the cowl. Started it up and guess what...only 4 lbs of pressure idling. On the drive home going about 50 mph the guage was fluttering between 3 and 4 lbs...not good. I have a race next weekend and will run it as is. The temps have come down so the air should be good. Looks like the next step is to boost fuel pressure.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

What Pump are you running ?

 

[Gene Fiore]

What Pump are you running ?

OEM Mechanical

Part Number: NFP M6399
Product Line: NAPA Fuel Pumps
Attributes:

Fuel Pump Gallons Per Hour : 20
Fuel Pump Pressure Rating : 4 lb - 6 lb

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

Ok if it was me I would add a small electric at the back . a holley 2brl in a racing application should have min 4.5 psi thru the lights , and as I said before your prob close but holley bowels hold a lot of fuel , a small inline pusher pump , ( can be had at Summit racing for under 50 bucks ) would fix the problem , I would wire it with a toggle so as to really only use it when racing , also get a regulator , I know your having low pressure issues , BUT , Ive seen relief valves stick ( on stock mechanical pumps ) and it also reduces pump pulsing ( although a 2300 Holley isnt as effected as most carbs ) the elec pump will also come in handy for priming the system without starting the engine ( it will push through a mech pump ) as the Mech will draw through the elec pump