More Power?

FalconSedanDelivery":1s2uhhtq said:
Well Like I said before , I don't think your running out of fuel ( yet ) , BUT then I ran your mph through the calculator , and its a NO go , in other words your ET is PERFECT for your MPH , THAT means your laying down on top , and Fuel pressure would be my first change!, NO street car is that close usually 1/4-1/2 second off is the norm , nuff said
I'm not sure I understand...if the et is perfect for my mph how does that mean its' laying down on top...please explain.
 
I think he is acknowledging a fault in the calculator he is using. Basically saying that it is usually returning a slower number than what is typically seen in real world circumstances.
 
No fault in the calculator , from someone who has Drag raced since the mid 70's I know what a prepped car and a street car are capable of , a fully prepped Stock eliminator car will run almost perfect ET's for the MPH , a street car does NOT , it takes thousands of dollars in suspension /Gearing / converter /clutch / to get a car to do that , so if your going perfect ET for the MPH on say a MOROSO powers speed calculator , its actually running out of steam on top end , Street cars will always MPH much better than they ET , because of compromises that allow it to be street-able if your curious pick up a MOROSO Power Speed Calculator ( a slide rule device that's deadly accurate) but can humble a person at the same time, its part number 89650 if you want to purchase one , from Summit Jegs etc
 
So basically what you are saying is that in my case the et should be quicker based on my miles per hour?
 
OK , I may have read your post ( earlier ) it was at two places and I thought in the one you ran 82 not 87 mph , at 87 perfect et is 14.80-83 at 82 it would be about 15.30 , so my original concern may have been off , but the statement on ET vs MPH still is ok
 
As i stated before, if you make 4 jet size changes & still remain the same ITS FUEL STARVATION.

Gene get your wallet out & get your fuel system where it should be.

Once you get the fuel system updated, & you richen up at the top end, remember the annular discharge venuri's have a lot stronger signal & you might have to enlarge the fuel bleed from the stock .028" to .030" or maybe larger cause you are running a 255" engine which will pull a lot more air than a 200"

Remember the fuel bleed is very sensitive to changes not like the air bleed. Bill
 
This was posted on another forum when I was talking about running both the mechanical and an electric pump:

"I wouldnt run both pumps. With the mechanical in there it will restrict any benefit you are getting from the electric pump. The mechanical pump has a oneway check valve so you arent going to PUSH more pressure through it. "

So what is the deal...can I run both or is this guy right?
 
it just makes the mechanical work less, possibly robbing les hp?? IDK...

I think if you can get a reliable 4psi the whole time would be best, if not try electric assisted. if still not, then by-pass the mech pump and run a regulator after the electric.

I know a chevy gas pump block off plate fits the pump location. but you might want to paint it ford blue :D
 
You can run 2 pumps , one elec , one mech , your total will be limited by the output of the mechanical , BUT it wont be hindered , by lack of supply , many Diesel trucks / combos do just that ( use two pumps ) , I did it for years , then just ditched the Mechanical pump when I upgraded to a bigger Elec pump
 
If I go this route, where would I place the regulator? Between the electric pump and the mechanical pump, or after the mechanical pump?
 
always place the regulator right before the carb.

gas tank ----> electric pump -----> Mechanical pump -------> regulator ------> carb-----> engine

make sure to add a filter anywhere along the line.
 
UPDATE: I decided to eliminate the mechanical pump entirely and install an electric pump. So this past weekend I completed installing a Carter electric pump rated at 100 gph and max of 15psi along with a fuel pressure regulator. It's working like a charm and I now have a constant 6 psi to the carb. I drove it around some and it's running great...no issues to report. I won't be able to make it to track for awhile to see if there is any performance gain but I will be going for a dyno run the weekend after next. I am curious to see my air/fuel ratio now, especially at WOT, and if any adjustments need to be made either to the main jets or the metering block. More to come...
 
Ok, so I made it back to the dyno to see how it's running. My last dyno session before I switched over to the electric fuel pump recorded a best hp of 145...can't remember the torque right now. Without any other changes my first pull was 155hp...not bad but still running way too rich...11.0 to 1 a/f at wot. Made two minor adjustments...one to the pvcr and one main jet change over the next two pulls but still running way rich at wot. Best pull was 157.65 hp and 193.56 ft/lbs of torque. I have more tuning to do in the pvcr and fuel bleed areas. I am thinking this combination can put out 170 to 180 hp with the correct tune. More to come...
 
tri-power 250":19znxjij said:
Good job Gene. What rpm did you get 157hp and peak torque?
Ken
The graph is kind of hard to read but it looks like the peak hp is about 4800 rpm and the peak torque around 3800 to 3900 rpm.
 
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